Help Hi all from a newbie

Bracken643

Grumbler in Training
Joined
Jan 23, 2014
Posts
3
Loc
Near Maidstone Kent UK
As the title says I am new to the framing world having only completed a basic course last year, however as you all know once word gets round you never seem to stop framing lol. I have now started to mount some plates for a friend and looking for a bit of advice/conformation that I am doing this right. I have just read in The Complete Guide to Shadowboxes and framing objects by James Miller that when sizing the visible side spacers that there should be a gap between the ends once stuck in place to allow for the expansion/contraction of the wood. Will this gap not be visible there for looking a bit shoddy. I think I may have answered my own question but am looking for conformation I am using mount board and 3mm foam board stuck together as the side spacers.
 
Welcome to the grumble!

I am sure Jim will be on soon to let you know the correct answer to your question.

I pinwheel the spacers. One end of a spacer butts up against the frame on one side, and the space on the other end is hidden behind the adjoining spacer on the next side, which butts up against the first spacer. The adjoining ends space is hidden behind the next side spacer, which butts up against it.
 
...I have just read in The Complete Guide to Shadowboxes and framing objects by James Miller that when sizing the visible side spacers that there should be a gap between the ends once stuck in place to allow for the expansion/contraction of the wood. Will this gap not be visible there for looking a bit shoddy.
Page 62, caption for upper-left photograph: "When making and cutting the shadowbox spacers to fit, remember to allow for slight expansion. If the spacers are too tight they will warp or come loose later."

The writer did not mention a gap, and the intention of that instruction was to avoid too-tight spacers that would warp or come loose later. More precisely, assemble the shadowbox spacers by gluing together strips of foam board and matboard. Cut the matboard strips precisely to make tight-fitting corners, and cut the foam board strips about 1/2" shorter than the needed length and center them on the matboard strips. Having the ends of the foam board recessed a bit allows the possibly-expanding matboard strips to push-in slightly the matboard strips which are perpendicular to them.

I hope that makes sense.

A related side note: When gluing the shadowbox spacers onto the deep rabbet of the frame, use ATG sparingly to hold temporarily and apply dots of PVA or other hard-setting glue to hold permanently, as noted in the book's instructions. This practice holds them securely, but allows them to be easily popped-off in the future for replacement of broken glass (or whatever), and reused.

Do not apply the glue in long lines, as shown in the lower-right photo on page 62. Actually, due to confusion of the photos (which I did not catch at the time) the one used there is wrong; it depicts attaching the matboard strips to the foam board strips, and does not properly show how to attach the foam board/matboard assembled strips to the frame. Yes, I know it's confusing. Sorry.
:faintthud:
 
Hi, Bracken. Welcome to the Grumble! :smiley:
 
Enjoy your travels here, Bracken!

:beer:
 
Welcome - stick around and also get stuck in to the (advanced) search facility!

I pinwheel the spacers. One end of a spacer butts up against the frame on one side, and the space on the other end is hidden behind the adjoining spacer on the next side, which butts up against the first spacer. The adjoining ends space is hidden behind the next side spacer, which butts up against it.

I use the Stonehenge method - i.e. the top spacer sits on both side spacers - I'm not sure if it's a better method but it's sure simpler to explain!
 
I do the column method too.

Supports the top spacer in case gravity takes over.
 
Thank you all for the help had sort of worked out the stonehenge method. Will try Jims method of cutting the foamboard a bit short. Also thank you to Roboframer for pionting to the grumble.
 
Hey, Bracken, welcome to the Grumble!

You play rugby? Are you nuts?

I had a college roommate who used to play for the Worcester Rugby Football Club. He broke his femur in a scrum and ended up losing his job.

He move in with us for six weeks. He kept scratching the furniture with his cast.

It almost cost me my marriage. :p

I trust your avatar isn't a self portrait? :icon9:
 
Ah, Robo, the "pinwheel" is the advanced "stonehenge"!

I totally agree - the "stonhenge" method is so much easier to explain.

I learned the "pinwheel" method in a class. The teacher said it allowed for expansion, let the abutments be seamless,
and was easier to take apart if you needed to.

To frankenthread - what is a "henge" anyway?
 
Hi Bill unfortunately I am to old to play rugby anymore at 54 but was playing at 50 but it took to long to recover for the next week game. Yes the avatar is how my grandkids see me lol that or Grumpy the dwarf lol. Going to look at the pinwheel method for the box frame sides will rty to work out the instructions lol thanks again guys what a great and friendly forum.
 
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