Help with cassese 810

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Emibub

Emibub

PFG, Picture Framing God
Joined
Nov 2, 2001
Posts
9,246
Loc
Centennial, CO, USA
Boy, the walls are caving in, I'm not having a good day. My Cassese 810 just had a v-nail jam in it and I can't tell how to unjam it. I looked on Cassese website where they had the manual available and it is no longer available. The thingy that the nails come up through is raised up where it is normally flush and I can see a v-nail that didn't shoot through. There seems to be a place for an allen wrench but none of mine seem to fit it. Any ideas on how best to unjam this thing? This thing has performed like a champ. I bought it 4 years ago used and have not had any trouble. I was trying to v-nail a frame that is 4.5 wide and I could not clamp it down. I've done that before with no trouble but something tells me that is where my problem started.

Thanks for any help.
 
I had that happen too. I was able to turn the screw on the back side of the chamber that the v nails go up through with needle nose pliers.
 
Emibub said:
Boy, the walls are caving in, I'm not having a good day. My Cassese 810 just had a v-nail jam in it and I can't tell how to unjam it. I looked on Cassese website where they had the manual available and it is no longer available. The thingy that the nails come up through is raised up where it is normally flush and I can see a v-nail that didn't shoot through. There seems to be a place for an allen wrench but none of mine seem to fit it. Any ideas on how best to unjam this thing? This thing has performed like a champ. I bought it 4 years ago used and have not had any trouble. I was trying to v-nail a frame that is 4.5 wide and I could not clamp it down. I've done that before with no trouble but something tells me that is where my problem started.

Thanks for any help.
Click to expand...

I used to have an 810, but that was a few years ago and I may have forgotten a thing or two, but as I recall:

  1. The driver is the part that drives wedges thru the distributor head.
  2. 810 drivers are long, and a bit fragile. It may have been damaged and need replacing. (Do you have a spare?) If so follow this procedure:
  3. The driver is held in place by a stub pin at its base. The pin passes thru a hole in the driver.
  4. Before taking the nailer apart SHUT OFF THE AIR!
  5. Remove air hoses fitted to drive cylinder (push in on the brass ring, then pull out on the hose)
  6. Release the cylinder support plate (two screws underneath the plate, below the driver)
  7. Free the driver by pulling the cylinder assembly down, but IF YOU FEEL ANY RESISTANCE STOP! You don't want to pull a crumpled driver down thru the distributor. In this case (a) loosen the stub pin that goes thru the hole in the driver as descibed below in step #8; (b) remove the distributor head (unscrew the small Allen screw in the distributor head***); (c) pull the damaged driver out of the top of the distributor with needle nosed pliers.
  8. Assuming no resistance as just described, remove the driver by loosening the lock nut on the stub pin, then unscrewing the stub pin.
  9. Grease the new driver (with Molykote), then fit it ensuring stub pin is correctly engaged in hole of driver. Tighten stub pin locknut.
  10. Refit cylinder assembly, and air hoses.
*** Sometimes the socket in the head of the Allen screw gets clogged up with old glue residue. Clean it out thoroughly so that an Allen key fits securely. If you do not have an Allen key of the correct metric size, go buy one. Don't try to remove it without the right tool or you could cause yourself more problems! When refitting the distributor head do not overtighten the Allen screw.


As part of routine maintenance, the distributor head should be removed periodically for cleaning. If you are lucky, this may be all that's needed this time around, but it sounds as though the driver may be damaged.

Hope this helps!
 
:kaffeetrinker_2:I mistakenly identified the top of the driver as a stuck wedge. Tugged and tugged until I realized that it was not a wedge. Then I did just as the above post recommended. I replace my drivers every couple months. My 810 is from the early 80s and still running strong. Great machine.

Quick note: Dave at the larson juhl help line is a wiz at these machines and knows everything about them and has always been helpful with any maintenance issue.:faintthud:
 
Now this is freaky. This morning I noticed the thread about the 810, which I have also, so I printed the notes from the thread for future reference. A short time later, I was trying to join a frame but no go. Long story short, I thought I had a busted hammer AND I was also identifying the top of the hammer as a jammed v-nail as well but then the light bulb went off and I realized that can't be, or is very unlikely. Ran down to the local hardware store for a can of air, did a little maintenance and it's back in working order.
 
####, I came in this morning hoping I had dreamt that my underpinner is broken.
I'm not sure what any of this stuff is, not sure what the driver is because I don't have my little diagram. Why would they not have that manual online anymore?

I appreciate the info. The thing the v-nails shoots through is raised above the table. Also the plastic clip that holds the v-nails won't come out.

I guess I can build frames with nails for the next month but I had high hopes of selling my underpinner. It really has worked well for me. I think another small volume shop could benefit from it like I have. Changed my life getting that underpinner. My stress level has escalated big time the past couple weeks, I don't want to deal with this. I'll get my morning Diet Pepsi and see if my attitude changes any.
 
All the advice given is very good.

It's tough without a good diagram if you've never done it before though. If you don't have the manual, give us your fax number and one of us can send the page that shows where everything is that you need to address.

Oh, and I've had to use needle nose pliers before to pull the stupid plastic cartridges out. Then sometimes all you have to do is pull the distributor head to remove any nails that are stuck.
 
jframe said:
You have to get an allen wrench that works, Kathy. After that, it's a piece o' cake.
Click to expand...

Get an allen wrench, and then call Larson Juhl tech support.

I had a problem with my 299 Cassesse, and they talked me through the fix while I was on the phone with them.

PS I still have my 810 Cassesse, which is at least 20 years old.
I keep it as a spare machine.
 
Perhaps the attached diagram would have been useful. Perhaps not!

In any event, hope you fixed the problem
 

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  • Assembly diagram.jpg
    Assembly diagram.jpg
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Wow, I saw the title of this thread and thought too bad, somebody else is having trouble with their Cassese. Then I saw it was me! I wasn't kidding about not dealing with this guys. I get a little ADD with stuff like this. Thanks for the diagram Andrew. I will approach this problem tomorrow. I've had a freakish amount of metal frames to work on and a freakish lack of business so I have not had any frames to join.

I gotta fix this thing, I've had 3 people ask about buying it!
 
Dermot, mucho gracias for the Spanish version of the manuel! The pictures help. I take that back, it has English too. Thanks!

Why can't I find it on their site?
 
Emibub said:
Why can't I find it on their site?
Click to expand...

I hacked the Cassess site a little bit to get that version :smileyshot22:

It’s not on general public view anymore ……… :icon45:

BTW is it Spanish!!!!..............I thought it was English and French…………anyhow I did not look very closely at it….
 
We have had our Casseese for 15 years and have had this problem routinely. It is easy to fix as has been previously mentioned. You must get a "metric" allen wrench set to work on this machine. If you need the maintenanve instructions on this, I can fax them to you. If you need a technician to walk you through the procedure, the LJ tech guys know this machine inside out. Just get them on the line and they will walk you through step by step.

Good luck,

Ken Link, CPF
 
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