I've had this saw for over 4 years now. I love it and have never calabrated it. My husband might of did that when we first got it but I'm not aware of it.
I do occasionally get gaps but there are alot of variables as to why this happens with this saw and I'm sure with any saw.
One is that if I don't keep the measuring arms swept clean even a little saw dust affects the way the moulding is sitting on them and resting against the fence it can allow the moulding to roll slightly while cutting.
Another one is that when the clamps engage sometimes the force is too much and it can put a slight tilt on the moulding, I adjust my air pressure so that it still hugs it tightly but doesn't over due it, now if it's a warped piece like I seem to get all the time anymore then I have alot of pressure on it to help straighten it out for a good cut.
The third one is one we don't have control over and that is the moulding itself. We have had more and more moulding lately that does not have a good flat surface on the bottom. Even a slight curve that I would think shouldn't matter does and it allows the moulding to once again roll.
With most mouldings I get an awesome cut, I do send my blades off about once a month for sharpening but more and more of the moulding coming in is just not as good as it once was. I have made a note on the samples of the ones that give me trouble so that I know if I have to cut that one then I'll have some puttying to do. I've also stopped carrying certain problem profiles from those venders and only order the more difficult ones pre chopped.
With a single blade you would think that you would get the same cut on both mitres, but occasionally on certain profiles of moulding one side will cut perfectly and when I go to cut the other side I may get a chip on the very back corner of all 4 legs.
Hope any of this helps with your trouble shooting. Good luck.
Karen
