Help mounting a Plate

Ack Cents In Framing

CGF, Certified Grumble Framer
Joined
Apr 29, 2007
Posts
137
Loc
Mason City, Iowa
A customer brought in two Terry Redlin limited edition plates to have remounted. They are in octagon frames and wand to keep all original materials only want remount. The original mounting was two sided foam tape and bump-ons stuck under the rim of the plate just out of sight(WOW what a cluster f**k when I opened it:icon9:), mounted to a felt covered masonite board. The board has a hole in the center to allow the customer to view the plate ltd. edition info. They are ok.... with using mighty mounts to attach, but would prefer for the replacement mounting be invisible.

ANY IDEAS??????? HELP PLEASE:help::help::help::shrug:
 
Do what we call a double shadow box. Cut a hole in a backing that will allow the bottom to show. build shadow box sides fro the front that will allow the rim of the plat to just touch the glass. Then calculate the same for the back. Basicly the plate is sandwiched between glass and held inplace by the backing in the center.
 
Well, this isn't gonna set well with all the preservation addicts on the forum but, nonetheless, this was a pair of Redlin plates that I designed a framing for about 14 or 15 years ago. The 2 frames were pinned together with short lengths of black walnut dowels, the same wood as the solid black walnut frames, and dowels were broken on the last move I made. I had to tear the framing apart to bore out the broken stubs and replace the dowels and I decided to check the mounting of the plates since I had the packages apart. They were intact and fine. I cut one of the plates from its mounting and completely cleaned it of all mounting materials in a matter of maybe 7 or 8 minutes!! I re-applied the mounting material and re-assembled all the parts after cleaning and replacing the glass with 2 pieces of Museum glass.

The mounting medium??, clear silicone adhesive. I used clear silicone adhesive on the recommendation of the American Institute of Conservation back in the early 90's and it lasted longer than the pins holding the 2 plate frames together. I left the other plate mounted with the original silicone adhesive. Maybe I'll tear that one down in another 10 years or so and see if that adhesive is still pliable and doing its job.

I did probably 400 or more collector plates similar to this when it was the rage to buy and display them back in the 90's and I have not had a single plate come back for the adhesive failing.

You use your own judgement on using or not using silicone but it is completely removeable with absolutely no harm done to the glaze of the plate, it may have some minor outgassing if you don't let it dry for at least a few days before sealing up the frame package but I understand that now there is an archival grade of silicone, and it stays pliable for many years.

Using silicone to mount the plates allows the framer to mount the plate back off of the surface of the glass which could cause more damage than the silicone would cause. One of the major reasons why it isn't a good thing to "sandwich" a plate behind a sheet of glass it that the normal vibrations in most walls will wear the 24k. gold plating off the edges of most collector plates and that causes visible damage to the plate and lowers whatever value the plate may have to the owner. I know this to be true as I have had plates brought in to my shop that were placed in the same type of frame once sold by Wild Wings in their catalog and the plating was visible on the backside of the glass when I tore the package apart to reframe the plates.

Here is an old photo of the set of Redlin plate to which I referred earlier.

twins1.jpg
 
I too have plates which are now 15 years old that were mounted in the same manner that Tom is speaking of. Back when I used this process it was an accepted form of mounting plates. Two of them are my own and are still in the same frames. Neither one of the plates are showing any signs of outgassing or any kind of deterioration, or drying out. I have removed other plates in which I have framed this way, just to change the mat colors, and they cleaned up easily with no damage being done to the plate or the glazing.

If my own plates weren't as old as they are I might be inclined to think that silicone should not be used, but I really can't see a problem with this type of newer, smooth surface plate. As always though, I would recommend being very causious when using silicone for anything else. I prefer using mounting methods which are easily reversed. In my book (or should I say DVD) glue of any kind is a dirty word.
 
Thanks everyone for the help, I think that I have a plan of attck now. I love the Grumble. This is a great source to contact peers that otherwise would be a tool unaccessed. Once again thaks for the input.
 
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