Resolved Hanging Solution Studio 23701 tall, narrow, softest wood ever!

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Huckleberry

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Picture Framing Design
Just when you think you are beyond making serious rookie moves! Framed three 40 X 28-ish with screw eyes which split the wood and hangers fell out frames broke.
I just did not see once papered, that screw eyes were too fat, wood was splitting when I was attaching them. (Thankfully, the art is styrofoam so it's not a weight issue.)
Flangers put screw too close to edge of wood and the 2-hole similar-to-Flanger brackets only accomodate larger screws. now I am planning to try small wall buddies but scrounging for long, narrower screws. Customer waiting for good news and I'm uncertain. Any advice?
 
J which split the wood and hangers fell out frames broke.
I haven't used that particular moulding but have used others in that family of 3/4" wide matte black mouldings from Studio including 27701 and 24801, without issue. 24801 is 1 1/2" deep. I have to assume that you are pre-drilling the screw holes. If not, you need to. You didn't mention your glazing. For a frame that size and a moulding that narrow, acrylic, not glass, should be used. I have used small Wall Buddies on that width of frame.
 
Larry, thank you for your response. No glass on these, thankfully! Upon close examination of that moulding, I discovered that 1/2" of the depth is a build-up/extension base made of softer wood, I could see the layer as I was cutting them but didn't identify the coming trouble. Used the small wall-buddies with 1" narrow wood screws dipped in glue. I appreciate the advice to pre-drill holes as well.
It looks to be holding fast. Now I know that I need to be more assertive when someone insists on "the narrowest frame." Maybe many other framers have a shop full of remnants from those expensive mistakes.
Huckleberry.
 
At that size with a narrow stem profile you may want to consider using a strainer frame.
 
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Upon close examination of that moulding, I discovered that 1/2" of the depth is a build-up/extension base made of softer wood, I could see the layer as I was cutting them but didn't identify the coming trouble. Used the small wall-buddies with 1" narrow wood screws dipped in glue. I appreciate the advice to pre-drill holes as well.
Studio does use built up stock pretty regularly. My experience is that they normally avoid using pith wood, but sometimes it sneaks in. The laminated substrate is stronger and much more stable than a single piece substrate for the most part.
Drilling holes to accept the hanging hardware is usually a good idea regardless of the density of the wood. Without drilling, the wood will split, even if you can't see it, and makes for a weaker connection with the screws.
 
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