Hanging plastic frame

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joe

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
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Nov 19, 1998
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whitewater,wi.53190 usa
A college student I know brought in a picture to have the hanging wire attached. I know the frame isn't wood ; must be some grade of plastic. It is very soft. Do any of you screw d-rings into these types of frames or use some other type of hanging device. I'm afraid if I screw a d-ring into it the ring will pull out. It looks like there has never been wire attached to the back and i don't have a great solution. This frame is CHEAP! Since I know the guy I can explain the problem if there is no solution. Thanks!

Joe Jaquess
 
Hey Joe!
Is it injection moulded polyresin or extruded styrene-like stuff?

Framer_Bear
 
Framer Bear my mistake. I dug a little deeper into this stuff and it now looks like it is some type of fiber board material; very light. My screw driver starter tool could go completely through this stuff.
I may just glue the screws and explain this to the customer. Don't know yet.

joe
 
Your description sounds like an extruded polystyrene moulding. That material is becoming more popular -- see recent threads on the subject.

If it is a polystyrene moulding, I suggest you use a hanging system that uses more than one screw on each side. WallBuddies are best, because they reinforce the top corners & you can use up to 6 screws on each side. WallBuddies also have the benefit of being a superior hanging system.

You didn't say how big it is, or whether it seems to be properly fitted. If it's a polystyrene frame, it should be filled to the depth of the frame, and the last filler board should be joined to the back of the moulding. If you need to do that, I suggest 2" wide plastic packing tape, burnished thoroughly.
 
thats one of the reasons I won,t use that stuff.Its basically crap.Witht the polystyrene stuff you can use a d ring with a self tapping screw and it should just about hold together.If I get a job where the customer wants to use their own frames I just tape the rings to the backing and let them get on with it.

I think anything over about twenty by sixteen inches becomes a bit dodgy and unstable with that stuff.Even with the bigger sections there seems to be too much movement in those frames.I always seem to be getting asked to replace broken glass in them.They seem to be worse than those aluminium things that were all the rage a while ago.

I hated them too..
 
After actually reading Joes post it sounds like it might be one of those MDF efforts with a paper wrapped sort of finish?

It should be ok to whack d rings into providing the frame is a reasonable section.I usually drill a wee pilot hole into it first using a panel pin inserted into my hand drill.It stops the stuff from splitting.

I think that paper wrapped MDF stuff is even more diabolical that the plasticy stuff.Its a pig to mitre as well...My labout cost for cutting that stuff is more than it costs fr a couple of lengths of it probably.

It should be discouraged.I don,t think it should be allowed near a decent bespoke frame shop.
 
I believe MDF is probably what I have here. The backing paper was black kraft laid down with black electrical tape. I could feel four triangular corner supports in the corners. I did not remove the backing paper for a closer inspection because I knew the fires of **** awaited me if I did. I used the double screw d-rings and that "seems" to be working. The frame size is 23 1/2 by 19 1/2. I hope I can tiptoe by this one a little wiser. Thanks all.

Joe
 
MDF (medium density fiberboard) is hard and heavier than ordinary wood. Basically, it's ground-up wood fibers mixed with some sort of resin (glue), and then molded into a desired shape.

If that's what you have, then drill it and put in screws. But drill carefully; it tends to crumble. And keep it away from high humidity --it absorbs moisture & swells up like a sponge.

Personally, I would prefer working with plastic rather than MDF.
 
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