Hanging Hardware For This...

[Shayla]

Direct contact overlay with ACM (e-panel) in an 39 x 55" frame. Not huge, but still good-sized. Frame is 1 1/8" deep and same width across the back. Planning to use metal offset clips (step-ups) to hold the backing in. Had planned on Z-Bar, but then realized there's not enough room for both. (Uness we route out every clip space, so the screw head is lower than the back surface of the frame. Which seems like too much work.) And we don't want to use short chunks of Z-bar with space in between, because some future person could slide it sideways on the wall, and down it goes.

It's for a restaurant, so I don't want to use single D-rings with wire. Am tending toward big Wall Buddy triangles in each upper corner, with a wall-anchored hanger, rather than their nails. Also thought of using security hangers, but would the offset clip screw head heights interfere with that? I guess it must be that previous jobs have had much wider frames. Either that, or were deep enough for adding a strainer and recessed hangers. What would you do?

 

[framah]

How about adding a piece of wood between the offset clips and THEN add the Z bar... tho the wood would be prone to splitting when you screwed the Z bar into place.

How about just a strip of 8 ply mat board instead of the wood.
Why aren't you just using a Fletcher point driver rather than the clips?

 

[Ylva]

I would use framers points on the top, and if you must, offset clips on the sides the Z-bar isn't.

 

[Shayla]

How about adding a piece of wood between the offset clips and THEN add the Z bar... tho the wood would be prone to splitting when you screwed the Z bar into place.

How about just a strip of 8 ply mat board instead of the wood.
Why aren't you just using a Fletcher point driver rather than the clips?

Because last time, I used a bunch of Fletcher points and Flexpoints, but wished it was held more securely. When I wrote about it here, offset clips were suggested as a better fix. I've used them on one since, and it worked well. But, that one just had a wire.

 

[neilframer]

Why aren't you just using a Fletcher point driver rather than the clips?

I agree with Ralph on this.
The frame is 1 1/8" deep, why can't the panel be shot in flush with the back?
Why use step clips if you don't have to?
Also, as Ralph said, you can use a wood shim to raise the Z-bar above the clips if you have to.

I have only framed and installed for about 200 restaurants and also many hospitals in 4 states.
If you have to use the step clips and can use small pieces of Z-bar in between, just put 2 T-locks from security hangers at the bottom corners and it will be locked to the wall and nobody can move it.
When we frame and install for restaurants and hospitals, security hardware is required because of insurance reasons.
Z-bar can be used at the top instead of the regular security brackets and the security T-locks can be used at the bottom corners to lock it to the wall.

We framed and installed at a hospital in Scottsdale that was for people with "anger" and other mental issues.
We had to install all of the framing with security and also we had to caulk the pictures to the wall with a special required anti-ligature caulk to help prevent possible suicides.
I discovered something interesting when we were installing there.
I went into one of the "dorm rooms" to try to grab a chair to stand on to help one piece that I was installing.
This hospital wing wasn't open yet so we didn't have to deal with any patients in this wing.

I started to grab the chair and I couldn't lift it.
I found that all of the furniture in the room, tables and chairs, were so heavy that it can't be lifted unless you are an Olympic weight lifter.
That is to prevent the furniture from being used as a weapon.

Also, we were installing in one room at this hospital that was having a meeting with patients.
One of the patients came over to me to ask if he could have one of my tools or blades.....
NO! I don't think so....

 

[David Hewitt]

Security hardware could work, if you either space the frame brackets out, or use the metal wall hardware because it gives you more spacing vs the wood wall hardware.
D-Rings (large ) as in mirror hanging would work, if concerned of them being seen because of the moulding width, you could use mending plates, they would allow the D-Ring to set a couple of inches inward of the frame. Also the security on the bottom would help in both cases in case of someone bumping the frame.

 

[neilframer]

One of the best compliments that I've gotten was while I was installing at a restaurant in Las Vegas earlier this year.
We have installed for about 40 of this company's locations in 2 states.
We also did all of the framing.

These are all brand new restaurants and sometimes there is no electricity and no air conditioning or heat yet.
We often have to use the Porta Pottys in the parking lot. (I always bring a roll of toilet paper just in case...)

The head contractor supervisor came over to me while I was installing.
I usually run into him at many of the installations that we have done for their company.

He came over to me and shook my hand and said.."We really like you guys, You come in and You get out.."
Coming from him, this was a great compliment.
(especially when I have heard him many times yelling at the guys who work under him for his company)

 

[Shayla]

....I started to grab the chair and I couldn't lift it.
I found that all of the furniture in the room, tables and chairs, were so heavy that it can't be lifted unless you are an Olympic weight lifter....

They could have started a band called 'Thousand Pound Chair'.

 

[David Hewitt]

We framed and installed at a hospital in Scottsdale that was for people with "anger" and other mental issues.
We had to install all of the framing with security and also we had to caulk the pictures to the wall with a special required anti-ligature caulk to help prevent possible suicides.
I

Been in those shoes. The art we installed could have no frames, all edges had to be tapered and rounded. The art had to be unremovable by the hand or simple tool. The art was permanently affixed to the wall. Removal was to remove the wallboard itself. We won't even mention the inspection approval ordeal.