Hanging a mirror - part 2

[Rozmataz]

I was searching and found the other recent thread on hanging mirrors.

My customer bought frames from me and had her mirror guy install the mirrors into the frames and will be installing in her home.

What she wants is the mirror flush to the wall - which I don't think will occur with wallbuddies or a traditional wired approach. But since I am not doing the installation, she still wants to get the hardware from me. My experience is limited at best with actual installation of mirrors which is why I was happy she was having her mirror guy do it. I figured they had their own set of TRICKS but evidently not....

What direction do I guide her or the mirror guys in? The only hardware I have on hand is traditional or wall buddies.

Thanks,

Roz

 

[RRAF]

Roz,
We just got done doing a mirror install and used hangmen. If the customer hadn't seen what was on the back she would have never known that the mirror wasn't tight against the wall cuz she can't see from the edges in the bathroom. I would imagine that most bathrooms are that way...but maybe yours isn't going in a bathroom.

We've also "snailed" mirror frames to the wall. If the frame has detail to it, you can drill a small pilot hole and run a finish screw through the frame into the studs behind. Then patch the holes (cuz we're so good at fixing them!) Only works on a frame that you can patch tho!

Wallbuddies would be my next choice!

Good luck.

 

[Jim Miller]

Flush that idea...

...What she wants is the mirror flush to the wall - which I don't think will occur with wallbuddies or a traditional wired approach...

You're right, Roz. All standard hanging hardware provides a small gap, usually about 1/4" between the frame and the wall, and there are reasons for that. In modern construction, air is constantly moving up and down the wall surfaces. Having a gap between frame and wall allows easier circulation of the room air. With no gap, a larger amount of dust usually accumulates on, behind, and around the frame.

Another consideration is that most sheetrock walls are not flat, but have unseen mounds of sanded spackle joints. I have seen as much as 1/2" gap on a 48" straightedge placed against the wall. I suggest you try that, to see whether the wall really is flat. It is possible that you could not make the frame fit absolutely flat without refinishing the wall.

For a heavy mirror, I suggest WallBuddies & screw anchors in the wall. For a VERY heavy, large mirror, I suggest Z-Bar or equal; lengths of aluminum channel.

If the customer insists on having the frame smack-dab on the wall (technical lingo for ya there), one way is to drill a large recesses in the back of the frame, perhaps about 1" or 2" diameter x 3/8" deep, so that you can install D-rings in the recesses. Wall anchors may be installed so that their screw heads engage the D-rings inside the recesses, making the frame fit flush to the wall.

 

[Paul N]

We installed recently one very heavy mirror, and Z-Bars did the trick of both distributing the weight evenly and hanging it very flush to the wall.

 

[BILL WARD]

using wall anchors(the parts going INTO the wall) for the large/heavy stuff---the nylon ones, the metal ones, wall dogs, butterflys??? opinions---which is 'best/safest' all-round?????

 

[Phoneguy]

A while ago a buddy who does construction/renovation work had me custom frame a mirror to fit a particular wall in a bathroom. The moulding wasn't really strong enough to support the weight so I cut a piece of hardboard slightly smaller than the outside dimensions, and glued/stapled it to the back of the frame rough side out. This added structural strength and he used PL construction glue to glue it to the wall. Put some temporary braces to hold it in place till the glue set up (probably 24 hours)......I dare anyone to try and take that thing down in one piece without either: a:> tearing the snot out of the drywall or b:> breaking a very big piece of mirror....


As an aside, the first time we did it he miss measured and it wouldn't fit into the space on the wall. The whole thing was 1" to wide......He called me to ask what he should do.....I am sure glad I didn't measure it!

James

 

[AWG]

We build and hang a pretty good number of mirrors and have gotten it down pretty good IMHO.

On all mirrors bigger than 16x20 we back them with particle board as Phoneguy mentioned. Screw down all around the perimeter every 6-10 inches. This keeps corners from sagging over time and adds structural support to thinner mouldings. A finishing washer on the screws make for a nicer look. Anything going in a humid environment gets filled with coroplast instead of foam.

Hangman has become our hanger of choice for just about anything big, but especially mirrors. Easy to use, secure, and the level make it easier than D-rings for customer-installed pieces. They install pretty flush )and I believe they now have a flush-mount version.

Tony