Unfortunately, you are using an out of date browser which is not fully compatible. It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
i have to hang a 48"x42", 10"deep shadow box tonight. approx. weight 50lbs. my plan is to cut a 1x8 at an angle. screw half to the top of the frame, the other half to the wall studs. let the "cleats" match up. i think this is the best way. critiques? opinions?
My suggestion would be to install strap hangers on the back of the shadow box as if you were going to hang a heavy mirror; you may have a problem matching the studs in the wall so perhaps mounting on a 1 x 4 from a hard wood would be best and then screw to the studs. You will experience a gap that may disturb the client.
Your idea of sawing a board lengthwise at a 45º angle is a good one and I have done a number of hangings using that method. You don't need a 1x8 though. A 1x6 is plenty stout enough to support a 50 - 75 pound load and is less expensive. Rip it lengthwise and proceed as you mentioned. You may want to also attach a narrow piece of 1-by to the bottom of the frame to even out the way it sits on the wall. (Shim it out by the thickness of your hanger so it hangs parallel to the wall.
For lighter frames, up to 20#, I have built these cleat hangers out of 1/2" gator board and it worked perfectly.
I've used both the cleats and z-bars, both with great success. I vote for either of those. You can't always hit studs with just strap hangers. I know that you can span them with a board,but,if you are going to do that, you may as well hang that sucker with a cleat.
Last winter I did a shadow box for the fire department, 6' x 4' x 6". I have no idea how much it weighed but it took three firemen to carry it out of the shop. (I didn't plan that on purpose but I have filed the idea away for future reference.)
There is a simple product available at virtually any hardware store, lumberyard or home centre that works as well as Z Trim and is probably one quarter the price or less.
It is called Transition Trim and is is flat aluminum extusion 1 1/4" wide 1/16" thick with a slight bend of about 30 degrees at 1/2" in from one side. It is the trim we all step over each day wherever a carpet meets a wood floor or different type of floor cover. They are available in 36" or 96" lengths.
The product comes with a smooth, grooved or mottled surface. The standard smooth finished bright finish is usually the cheapest. There are usually holes punched every 12" or you can easily drill holes where they are required.
You simply fasten one piece to the wall and one piece to your frame and they work just like Z Trim or the old fashioned French cleat made from wood.
If you need clarification go to the following web site and go down page 6 to what they list as binder bars and you will see a drawing. On page 8 you will actually see something they call Z bar which would work as well.
Boy, 200 40x60 mirrors! That would be a framer's dream job!
(As long as your friend was around to move those suckers out of the shop and hang them for you!)
Let's see now, 200" per frame times 200 divided by 12 times about $35/ft. for that nice wide gold gilt frame moulding amounts to uh, .................. JEEZ!
...Boy, 200 40x60 mirrors! That would be a framer's dream job! ...
And an installer's nightmare!!! My back hurts just thinking about it.
As far as the installation of the shadow box goes, a lot would depend on the frame. If the frame is a little narrow (typical in a shadow box) and there is no plywood or such on the back to transfer the load to the lower frame member than the 1x8 would problably be a good idea. Cut it so the piece going on the frame is about 5" tall and if possible see if you can get a couple of screws into the side rails as well as the top rail. This will add stiffness to the top rail and help prevent bowing or the corners popping. I actually prefer 1/2" MDF for this as less shows from the side. If you bevel the edges back from the sides and paint them black they aren't too noticable.
Z Bar or transition trim (I've used both) would also work but only if the back of the frame was skinned with plywood or something to transfer the weight to the bottom frame rail. They add no support to the frame.
D-rings and 75lb. hooks would also work if you hook right to the rings, in other words don't use a wire across the back. However, if the frame is narrow your hooks might show from the side....yuck. Quite often on large pieces I add 3-4" wire loops to the D-rings which enables me to move the hooks in a little ways to hide them. In this case I would not recommend this as the depth of the shadow box might cause it to lean out more tending to pull the hooks away from the wall lowering the amount of weight they can handle.
By the way...the transition moulding is available at most of the home stores for about $5 for 12 feet. Cheaper than Z-Bar and works nearly as well. Lately I've been using 3/8" J track instead of cleats on mirrors. The advantage being if there is a bow in the wall the tracks will still clip together without causing the mirror to bow and distort. Cleats will often cause the frame to bow to match the wall making for some interesting reflections.
