H2 Repair lip of molding

DonB

True Grumbler
Joined
Jun 11, 2002
Posts
53
Loc
Houston, Texas, USA
Studio SD245-073 (Ambience Honey Maple 3") was used to frame a 48x36 print and the lip (which shows
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) has a small but deep nick in it. Putty ain't an option.

Any suggestions for ways to repair this? It is small but deep on the very edge that shows in the center of the bottom leg.

Yup, it's all fitted and ready to go out the door, eh, except for the little chip now laying on the work room floor . . . that left a hole that looks like the Grand Canyon.

All suggestions appreciated.
 
First thought would be to glue the chip back in if it is a clean break. Second thought is to use a good wood filler and color to match as necessary.

Sometimes if you can change the location of not-so-perfect repairs it helps, ie flip the art so that it is on the top rather than the bottom leg in this case.

If you are not happy with the repair, replace the leg or make a new frame.

This brings up a question. I don't think I've ever done this, but has anyone offered the customer a discount due to imperfections? I'm sure it would have to be really minor or we wouldn't even try.
 
I've had people ask for discounts because it isn't perfect. for those cases I offer to bring it up to their standards, but not give a discount. If for no other reason than that it will be hanging on their wall, as an ad for my quality of work, for a lot longer than the customer will remember the value of the "discount".
 
Was the nick a result of damage in your shop, damage in shipping or faulty moulding? If the damage is the result of faulty moulding ask the supplier to replace it, if it is the result of shipping, submit a damage claim and if it was caused by damage in the shop, replace the leg.

In any event, you will not be happy sending the job home with the client unless it is as perfect as you can make the job. We have replaced a lot of work because of small damaged areas.

Jack Cee
 
How do you replace a "leg"? My frames are v-nailed and glued. I couldn't get one leg off if I gave it every ounce of my energy: I'd screw up the joint. And I can't cut through the joint.

How are you doing this? without downsizing the whole thing.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. The damage happened here in the shop. I think I'll try wood putty and hope I can match the finish.

The molding has a very dark brown lip that looks like a 3/8" fillet with a square flat profile. The dark brown may be relatively easy to match.

If that doesn't work we'll have to order more molding.
 
This is no longer curiosity. I just dinged a moulding showing it to the client. "Ta-da! Isn't this just lovely....?" whap! against a tabletop.
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Damage is probably not fixable: so now...just how would you replace that rail?? if they even have enough?

I've heard the moulding is now backordered 'til April. Maybe they have a short. This is the third piece in two weeks compromised by me or an employee. Hideous Karma going on.
 
Merps Mom,

Two ways to replace a leg:

On smaller moulding, you can break the glue joint by standing the frame on a padded surface on one corner and gently pushing down. You will feel or hear it separate. Then lay it face down with one edge hanging over the table. Use a rubber mallet to bang down on one leg near the corner hanging in space to separate the legs. The v-nails will usually stay in one leg and you can pull them out with pliers.

On larger moulding, you can use a small hand saw to cut thru the joint until you come to the v-nails, then use a hack saw to cut thru those. Then recut the miters. This method works if you can live with the size being approx. 1/4" smaller..
 
Try to fill it and touch it up, who knows, you may get lucky. You can also learn how to use wax burnishing sticks, BIG learning curve for something you hardly ever have to do.

The easiest and best thing to do is just replace the frame. What is more important to you, saving some time and money, or saving a customer?

People may pick up a slightly blemished framing job and never mention it to you, they also may never come back. Is it worth the risk?

John
 
I know how to burnish in hard wax, and have the kit;
but I gotta go with John on this one.

Replace the leg if you know how, or replace the frame and remember your lesson.
 
I would just try to take the frame apart with minimal damage, and replace the rail. I would be afraid that any patch may look OK now, but down the line may become more obvious. I've never really had a lot of trouble breaking down v-nailed frames. I usually stand them up on the floor and slowly twist it until the glue cracks and then, depending on the depth of the nails, they sometimes twist out, or I will tap with a mallet as above. Worst case scenario, the corners get boogered up and you chop the 48" rails into the 36's and just reorder for the 48" legs (as long as the moulding matches). Good luck.
 
I used to watch those crazy furniture guys and they could do amazing things with epoxy putty - try it - you'll like it! I favor PC Lumber ("hand moldable wood color epoxy putty") - it comes in a roll and you just cut off as much as you need, knead it, apply it, smooth it, sand it - whatever - then apply whatever finish - it is super strong and flexable in application - smoothes with a finger or a tool. Cures really fast as well - so anyone would have time to at least try it before ripping a frame apart and possibly ruining the whole frame...
 
I have some mouldings in stock my grandfather must have ordered back in the 50's or 60's and the quality of wood is quite different. Some narrow mouldings are hard enough woods that relatively larger frames can be built with them and still maintain structural integrity.

As soon as I get my new place organized I'm going to have a blowout on some of these older "certificate mouldings" as I like to call them. Narrow black and walnut stained mouldings taking up way too much space! Lots of remnants of other mouldings too.

Any suggestions on a promo that fellow grumblers have run to clear out such stuff?

Dave Makielski
 
MerpsMom,

If you have a bad karma day (week) happening then beware breaking apart v-nailed corners. I hold the frame after "cracking" the joint and wiggle the corners apart. The v-nail does as Doug mentioned stay in one leg. Usually the wrong one and then the v-nail shreds the top of the leg! If it does come out then it tends to slice my hand fairly badly! That's where the bad karma comes into play.

Also after I break the corner apart I do downsize the whole frame. The minimun shrinkage is 1/2" or 1/4 per side so that I can get rid of the wood weakened by the v-nail and put v-nails into clean wood.
 
Lacquer burn in sticks fill deep gaps well, harden as they cool, and can be leveled with lacquesol, but it is also a learning curve. They come in all different colors to match furniture finishes.

Another option is to find a Furniture Medic franchisee in your area who knows how to use the stuff and see what he/she charges for the repair. Also a good # to have when you drop a hammer during an installation
 
Thanks for the suggestions - on how to fix the problem as well as the implications of some "fixes" from the customer perspective. At times I believe we fail to look at the longer term implications of some of the actions and decisions we make in circumstances like this. Thanks John for keeping that all in perspective.

The Grumble is a good place to come for
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! :cool:

I have a short of this molding that I'm going to experiment on with some wood putty. If that doesn't go well I'll take a look at removing and replacing the problem leg.

If that doesn't go well I'll break the break the entire frame down, cut the long legs down as suggested, and order enough molding to make one or both long legs.

At least this didn't happen in front of the customer! :eek:

Sorry about that MerpsMom . . . stuff happens
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and happens, and happens. Either the rail must be replaced or the whole frame. I've been around that corner and I can rarely "fix" the bug to my satisfaction unless it's a gnarly, gooey, ornamented profile. This is furniture finish walnut.

But I'm printing out the good ideas for the future. As Bob suggested, today is not the day to try to break apart anything. There's one three-foot piece left at the supplier's, and I'll downsize the piece just a little to make it work fine. Tomorrow.

Thanx to the Grs for all the encouragement.
 
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