Opinions Wanted Grip-N-Frame

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1. Roughly $7 in materials per frame? No thanks.

2. Not a fan of the garbagey chip board substrate used in the video.

A. Matboard could be used, but I wouldn't trust it to be sturdy enough
B. Doesn't look like it would grip thicker material like foam board

3. I would hate to see how badly it chewed up the fine fabrics shown in the video.

4. "Professional framers worldwide" also use silicone adhesive and hot glue. Don't make it right.
 
That looks very interesting! I will keep watching for replies to see what everyone else thinks of it. Although, I don't usually use masking tape, but then I guess I could. Nah, I just kidding, but if it would adapt to using conservation materials, I might try it, of course this is coming from someone who thought the glitter beads looked cool. Oh well, shows you what I know.
Randy J.
 
I'm asking because I have two hand-embroidered pieces from Guatemala to frame. They are embroidered onto hand woven fabric that is not tightly woven. Other than sewing host pieces of fabric along the edges, and then lacing the pieces to my bases (acid free foam board and rag mat), I'm just not sure what to do.

When I saw this new fangled "grip-n-frame," it just looked interesting, so I wondered if any grumblers had ever used it. I think it would work fine with at least a six ply mat board.

And yes, I agree - it cuts pretty deep into the profits, but for certain jobs it might be worth it.
 
Is that price wholesale or retail? It sounds like it is a product aimed at the needleworkers, not the framer. But I guess all in all, it would be a matter of time versus money. Sometimes you need one, sometimes the other. Ya know?
 
When a pitch makes inaccurate claims, it colours the entire pitch:

- professional framers worldwide do not use it
- an average picture is not 10x10

The stretching board is far flimsier that what we use, but when in the package, it may be strong enough. The teeth look aggressive, and may be more harmful to the fabric than what we use. The video doesn't show the fabric once it has been taken off the grippers. It shouldn't be used with silk. The backer may not be able to take the pressure of a large piece using a heavy fabric. We put quite a bit of pressure on some pieces to straighten them out.

Fine for hobby types, but I'll bet "professional framers" are staying away.
 
GreenTea said:
I'm asking because I have two hand-embroidered pieces from Guatemala to frame. They are embroidered onto hand woven fabric that is not tightly woven. Other than sewing host pieces of fabric along the edges, and then lacing the pieces to my bases (acid free foam board and rag mat), I'm just not sure what to do.

When I saw this new fangled "grip-n-frame," it just looked interesting, so I wondered if any grumblers had ever used it. I think it would work fine with at least a six ply mat board.

And yes, I agree - it cuts pretty deep into the profits, but for certain jobs it might be worth it.
Click to expand...

Sounds like the tight fit method would be good for the two pieces you mention.
 
GreenTea said:
:icon19: Okay, here goes...

What's a Tight Fit Method?
Click to expand...

Also known as the Newberry Method, although there's some question as to whether or not that's completely accurate. Quick and dirty instructions:

1. Cut a piece of acid free foam board an inch or two larger than the frame size.

2. Lay out an opening in its center a bit larger than the mat window opening.

3. Cut out the opening with a straight, not beveled, cut.

4. Place the needlework on the fallout, center and smooth it out.

5. Replace the foam board "mat" onto the fallout, catching the fabric between the two pieces of board.

6. Pull and tuck the extra fabric from the back to get it taut and smooth.

7. Remeasure, cut the mats and place on the needlework. Trim excess foam board.

Depending on the thickness of the fabric, you may need to trim the fallout a little bit, but the fit still needs to be a bit snug.

More complete instructions, complete with pictures, are available in the PPFA Guidelines to Framing Textiles and Needlework.
 
FramerDave said:
Also known as the Newberry Method, although there's some question as to whether or not that's completely accurate. Quick and dirty instructions:

1. Cut a piece of acid free foam board an inch or two larger than the frame size.

2. Lay out an opening in its center a bit larger than the mat window opening.

3. Cut out the opening with a straight, not beveled, cut.

4. Place the needlework on the fallout, center and smooth it out.

5. Replace the foam board "mat" onto the fallout, catching the fabric between the two pieces of board.

6. Pull and tuck the extra fabric from the back to get it taut and smooth.

7. Remeasure, cut the mats and place on the needlework. Trim excess foam board.

Depending on the thickness of the fabric, you may need to trim the fallout a little bit, but the fit still needs to be a bit snug.

More complete instructions, complete with pictures, are available in the PPFA Guidelines to Framing Textiles and Needlework.
Click to expand...

Thank you so much for taking the time to explain this method. I have used this particular method in the past for a few jobs, and you're right: it would have worked for this one were it not for the fact that there isn't enough room for the outside section of foam board to create enough security to hold the pieces. My fault...I designed them with a small, linen liner, and frame.

I did order the grip-n-frame. If it arrives very soon I'll try it out on this project and let you know (including pictures) how it works out.

:eek:
 
GreenTea said:
I did order the grip-n-frame. If it arrives very soon I'll try it out on this project and let you know (including pictures) how it works out.

:eek:
Click to expand...


Don't forget to tidy up the back fabric with masking tape as described in the video. :shutup:
 
(to anyone reading this thread in the future. GREEN TEXT means that someone is joking...) :) :)

Pro framer's don't generally use duct tape, unless they're repairing duct work in the shop.
 
I tested a similar product many years ago and hated it. Very difficult to get the fabric straight. Undoing and redoing to try to straighten the lines was a nightmare. The ####es made too many, large holes in the fabric. I could lace the same sized piece in half the time!
 
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