Opinions Wanted Gluing to Coroplast

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S

seido

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Apr 4, 2006
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303
Loc
Palm Beach Florida
I'm going to "create" a floater frame using a thin/deep moulding and a wide fiillet to serve as the background.

I need to glue a fairly lightweight moulding, really a 3/4" wide fillet, to Coroplast. I need suggestions on what kind of adhesive to use. I was thinking of Liquid Nails or some other kind of construction adhesive, or maybe my trusty hot glue gun?

My concern is that Coroplast is too slick to hold a glued piece of moulding or anything else.

The alternative is to use Luan plywood but I'm trying to keep the weight down, the piece is 30" x 50"

Suggestions appreciated...thanks!

Joel
 
I have used Water Base Contact Cement which I have obtained from the Local Hardware Store. I have used this to attach laminated, encapsalated maps to coroplast One can use masking tape to keep ones cement within the lines and to keep the cement off of the finish. Apply to both surfaces and wait till it skins over and apply. Essentially one has only one attempt to get everything in place and tight. It will clean up, when wet with soap and water or with mineral spirits when dry.
 
I use liquid nails mirror adhesive with excellent results for small narow items onto colorplast...for larger items what fotosource said works real well.
 
Plio-bond is available at the hardware store. It's a super aggressive contact cement that we use to glue puppet mouths to their heads. It's designed to withstand high temp, vibrations and water. People use it to glue things to their boats, for example.

It stinks to high heaven and takes about 48 hours to cure.
 
Just a word of caution:

Corrugated Plastic is, indeed, corrugated, like corrugated cardboard (although a little less so), so the bumps and groves may inhibit keeping the art totally flat.
 
Bill,

I'm just gluing the moulding to the Coroplast. The assembled piece will then be screwed on to the back of a stretched canvas to give the visual effect of a floater frame.

My intention is to use 6mm Coroplast which seems to be pretty solid and stable.

Joel
 
Why not use fillet tape? (Or two rows of fillet tape?) It is a UHB (ultra high bond) acrylic based adhesive that will not crawl like ATG (which is the WRONG adhesive).

Larson Juhl sells fillet tape. So does Specialty Tapes and probably ASAP.

3M also makes many other UHB and VHB (Very High Bond) tapes that would also work well- you could google to find industrial suppliers that distribute it.

I like tapes because they are clean and easy to apply and stick well to coroplast.

Did you know you can also get "smooth" coroplast so the ridges/corrugations are less problematic?
 
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