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Vermont Hardwoods solid wood picture frame molding

Gluing Acrylic into Frame

Joined
Jan 28, 2020
Messages
31
I recently got a project from a local resort to make some nice framed sneezeguards for their front lobby. Incidentally, I've never had to put acrylic into a frame before without some kind of back support. Obviously, the easiest solution would just be to use some clear caulking to glue it into place. I don't want to worry about the adhesion failing so I was wondering what kind of glue anyone else would recommend based on experience? I usually keep some 100% silicone around for mounting nonporous 3d objects. Would that do or is it too easy to peel away? The frames are rather large--28.5 x 40. It would be a shame if it loosened and fell back on someones head while they're trying to check in a guest.
 

alacrity8

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Sep 22, 2009
Messages
759
I’m not sure how others have attached their plexiglass.
We made frames from 1” tall moulding, laid in it’s side.
This allowed for a wider rabbit space.
We then screwed the plexi into the frame.
537671D7-34D8-43EC-A311-5114A1A9DA58.jpeg 82AA566B-65B3-4ED6-9D6E-0CF7B7E18ACE.jpeg 750A4DF9-0C2D-4EFA-A0F7-D948D72477D7.jpeg
We also added a cross brace to fight any warping.

Brian
 
Joined
Jan 28, 2020
Messages
31
They brought me a frame they've been using to basically replicate. It was a behemoth of a chonky boy with plain acrylic glued in, so I can't change too much. Still needs to sit flush in the lip of the frame. I like Larry's idea of the quarter round moulding, but I can't find anything smaller than 1/2", and at 1/4", I'm almost afraid of a nail splitting it?
 

alacrity8

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Sep 22, 2009
Messages
759
They brought me a frame they've been using to basically replicate. It was a behemoth of a chonky boy with plain acrylic glued in, so I can't change too much. Still needs to sit flush in the lip of the frame. I like Larry's idea of the quarter round moulding, but I can't find anything smaller than 1/2", and at 1/4", I'm almost afraid of a nail splitting it?
If you predrill, or use a pin nailer, that shouldn't be much of a problem.
 
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Joined
Jan 28, 2020
Messages
31
Ok another issue is a don't technically have a fine drill or a pin nailer. And I still don't think I can find 1/4" radius quarter round moulding. So if anyone else were to HAVE TO glue it, what would you use?
 

CHolt

Grumbler
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Messages
46
Tape it.

jdsindustries.com

SKU: H117 - 1/4" x 36 Yards Gold-Line Premium Tesa Tape

Or, do they still make glaziers points for the Fletcher guns? There are also glaziers points that you can drive with a flat head screwdriver.
 
Last edited:

alacrity8

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Sep 22, 2009
Messages
759
If you were to find 1/4" quarter round, or a 1/4" spacer, you could use Wood Glue, or Liquid Nails to glue it in place.
I wouldn't be comfortable gluing in the Plexiglass, as some of the glue may show.
 
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MATTHEW HALE

CGF II, Certified Grumble Framer Level 2
Joined
Dec 5, 2015
Messages
487
if you're worried about it peeling off, use acrylic caulk. the main diff is that acrylic caulk is paintable, but it also seems like it may adhere better to an acrylic surface. i'd say a "mechanical" approach would be preferred over the "adhesive" approach if possible though. if you're anywhere near a Harbor Freight and have a compressor for air tools, grab a 23 gauge pin nailer. they're about $30, and they'll do the trick.
 
Joined
Jan 28, 2020
Messages
31
if you're worried about it peeling off, use acrylic caulk. the main diff is that acrylic caulk is paintable, but it also seems like it may adhere better to an acrylic surface. i'd say a "mechanical" approach would be preferred over the "adhesive" approach if possible though. if you're anywhere near a Harbor Freight and have a compressor for air tools, grab a 23 gauge pin nailer. they're about $30, and they'll do the trick.
Thank you matthew, I was initially hoping for just this--advice on the difference between various kinds of caulking. I understand the advantages of a nonadhesive solution from a structural standpoint. I think I'm having an overthinking crisis today. It's one of the biggest orders my shop has taken yet so I'm like I GOTTA DO IT RIGHT!!! But also, I've got to do it quick. Im going to go home and sleep on it. Everyone's advice has made me rethink everything just as I thought I was approaching the finish line, lol.
 

wvframer

Humble Picture Framer
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Messages
1,715
If you get a box of Fletcher glazier points, you can reverse the magazine on your point driver. Then, you can cover them with a bead of silicone or better yet a narrow mat that you glue down with whatever you are joining your frames with. It won't get much wear in that setting.

A Grumbler told me about this a few months ago. I got some and it works! I can't believe I never knew this! :) It is also great for those recto-verso jobs. It takes less than a minute to switch it.

Larry's solution is still the best one. A friend with a table saw could trim quarter round or even square stock. Paint to match with acrylic paint. You don't need a table saw, but we all need more friends!

Cabinet shops can do that in a few minutes from something that they might even have on their scrap pile. They may well trade for framing. I've done that a few times.

I never miss an opportunity to ask for help from other small businesses. It generates friends and customers and some who are both.
 

CHolt

Grumbler
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Messages
46
Well heck, just fit the acrylic to the rabbet with shadow box strips, matboard or even plywood strips. That way you'd be covering the unfinished rabbet, make it look nice.
 
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wpfay

Angry Badger
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I have used Econospace, 3/16" X 1/4" black, and small nails as a glass stop moulding before. Available thru frame material distributors. The adhesive strip holds it in place for fitting. Predrill the holes using one of the brads as a bit (cut head off).
You can also get 1/4" X 1/4" balsa and dye it whatever color and pin it with #20 x 3/4" wire brads. UMS used to sell balsa shimming material in bulk packages. Google "Balsa Wood Sticks". If you also use 1/4" fillet tape, you can position and fit the strips, then pin in place. Tool to use would be an old fashioned tack hammer, or one of the pliers-like fitting tools. You could also fit alternating strips of the fillet tape with beads of glue and not use brads.
 

shayla

WOW Framer
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Apr 5, 2008
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31,317
The cabinet shop next door to us uses silicone to fit glass into the doors. That said, the quarter round idea is nice.
 

RoboFramer

PFG, Picture Framing God
Joined
Nov 19, 2002
Messages
8,321
For heavens sake - this isn't a frame, it's a screen - I've screened off my whole counter - uprights screwed to it - could be simple pine battens, maybe painted. I used long discontinued 3.5" wide frame moulding. Countersunk holes in perspex, screwed in to moulding face, two large sheets each end, one smaller central. It doesn't have to sit in the rabbet.

I got photos if you can't imagine perspex screwed in to uprights. Jeez.
 

shayla

WOW Framer
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Here's hoping your project works out great. Would love to see pics when it's done. :)
 

Joe B

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Clear silicone would work, it is messy and if you aren't careful it will seep out and then you have to trim. How will you keep the acrylic equally tight to the frame for the acrylic to dry - that would be really tough? If you can find or make 1/4 round, you could also use very small square cut wood that strips sometimes is used as a spacer in cabinet or frame making. Pin nailer is the best for attaching both the 1/4 round and the square.
 
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CB Art & Framing

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Feb 20, 2007
Messages
2,119
I recently got a project from a local resort to make some nice framed sneezeguards for their front lobby. Incidentally, I've never had to put acrylic into a frame before without some kind of back support. Obviously, the easiest solution would just be to use some clear caulking to glue it into place. I don't want to worry about the adhesion failing so I was wondering what kind of glue anyone else would recommend based on experience? I usually keep some 100% silicone around for mounting nonporous 3d objects. Would that do or is it too easy to peel away? The frames are rather large--28.5 x 40. It would be a shame if it loosened and fell back on someones head while they're trying to check in a guest.
 
Joined
Jan 28, 2020
Messages
31
Here's hoping your project works out great. Would love to see pics when it's done. :)
So, I ended up talking myself back into glue just for ease of use. I cleaned it up nice with an old library card I cut down and turned into a caulking scraper lmao. The adhesion seems strong enough, I'm not going to fret about it too bad. I'm still glad I reached out and listened to everyone though. Joe B had a wonderful concern of how to keep the acrylic flush while it dried, which I didn't think too much about at first, but bracing the center with cardboard so it didn't bow downward and then using another piece on top as a light weight worked like a charm. It's not the most elaborate project, so pictures aren't stunning, but I'm still glad to be done. Maybe the resort will send me a pic once theyre all installed... THATS what I want to see! I don't think the back of the moulding will be visible from the counter side, but just in case, I cleaned up the backs with some dust cover paper to hide my v-nails and all the manufacturer's stamps. I'm not going to worry about the inside rabbit too much since the frame is kindof natural. Time to wash my hands and move on to the next dozen projects waiting! 20200630_111413.jpg 20200630_110951.jpg
 

wvframer

Humble Picture Framer
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So, I ended up talking myself back into glue just for ease of use. I cleaned it up nice with an old library card I cut down and turned into a caulking scraper lmao. The adhesion seems strong enough. . . I don't think the back of the moulding will be visible from the counter side, but just in case, I cleaned up the backs with some dust cover paper to hide my v-nails and all the manufacturer's stamps. I'm not going to worry about the inside rabbit too much since the frame is kindof natural. Time to wash my hands and move on to the next dozen projects waiting!
I had a recent stay at a Hampton Inn in Virginia. I recognized the simple black cap molding that made up their acrylic barrier. Yours is actually a neater job. But theirs looked fine to anybody but a framer. My wife didn't even notice it.

Some of the drive throughs here just have cheap plexi screwed to the outside of the window, cracks and all. Nobody seems to worry about this. I think everybody thinks it is temporary, and I hope they are right.
 
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