Glue question?

Jim

Grumbler
Joined
Sep 6, 2005
Posts
18
Loc
Tryon, NC
Wondering what type and brand of glues other grumblers use for frame joining?
 
I have used Titebond and Titebond II along with CornerWeld and a few others through the years. Right now my adhesive of choice is the Maxim line, particularly the 5/15 Maxim.

Framerguy
 
What is more important in frame joining.... a really good glue, or the physical joining hardware (ie underpinning or nailing)? I realize that both are important together, but when push comes to shove, the glue joint may eventually fail or crack, but the underpinning will hold it together. I seem to reacall that the manual for the underpinner said that the joint doesn't NEED to be glued, but I find that hard to believe, and I always glue them. Just curious.

By the way, I use the white framers glue from United to glue my joints, but I don't think it's the best glue around, I like it, though.
 
This has been bantered about for years, sort of the chicken or the egg thing. Some say that you only need v-nails/brads until the glue joint dries, others say that the v-nails/brads are the holding power and the glue is the backup to help strengthen the joint.

I use both and really don't care which one is holding the joint together at any given point in time as long as it's tight and solid.
kaffeetrinker_2.gif


Framerguy
 
The best resource for an answer to this question is R. Bruce Hoadley who wrote this book:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1561583588/qid=1143212652/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/103-7814663-8837454?s=books&v=glance&n=283155

This is a book every framer should have. It also explains why we should predrill all holes before inserting screws and screw eyes and many other fascinating things about something many of us use on a daily basis.

Here is a link to some of the pages in it that have discussions about glue and wood:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/1561583588/ref=sib_dp_srch_pop/103-7814663-8837454?v=search-inside&keywords=glue&go.x=14&go.y=12
 
I use Maxim 1 minute set-up for most joining. Sets up in one minute...bonds in 15...Cures in 3 hrs. Dries clear and cleans easily with water.

For work that I want more time to "maneuver", I use Maxim 5 minute set-up.

I do not use any joining systems other than brads.

Dave Makielski
 
I second Rob's endorsement of Understanding Wood. It is a fascinating read and gives a solid basis for making decisions about joining, hanging and storing wood moldings

Peter Bowe
Saline Picture Frame Co.
 
I don't get too excited about glue brands. I buy CornerWeld because it is easy to use, made for the purpose, and my supplier delivers it conveniently.

But in my limited experience, all of the modern wood glues will perform well if they are used properly. None of them is far superior to the others for our purposes in joining frames together.

When a properly mitered glue joint fails, it is almost always for one of these reasons:

1. The strength of the glue bond was compromised during the first minutes after joining. That usually means the surfaces moved, disturbing the just-beginning-to-dry glue.

2. The glue joint was "starved". That is, the wood absorbed so much of the glue's moisture that there was too little of it left between the surfaces to make a strong bond. Pre-gluing very porous wood prevents this quickly and easily.

3. The wood fibers separate. This happens over time, especially with radical expansion/contraction cycles or other fast/frequent environmental changes. In this failure, wood fibers can be clearly seen on one or both of the glued surfaces. The glue didn;t fail, the wood fibers did.

4. Unusual impact or twisitng force, which exceeds the strength of the bond or the wood.

Glue and mechanical fasteners are both essential to srong mitered corners. Glue or fasteners alone would hold the corner under normal circumstances, but circumstances are not always normal.

Glue keeps the corners strong and tight. Fasteners serve to hold the mitered surfaces still while the glue dries. And later, when the bond fails (see above), the fasteners prevent catastrophic failure; they at least keep the corner from literally falling apart.

I always use both.
 
Glue is one of those things that you wonder about at 2 AM. Every oem out there claims theirs is the best.
The main problem I have with glue is in its application. I seem to always use to much and it oozes out the sides. To little and you don't have a good bond. So I follow it with the underpinner just to make sure..A double source of protection. In a pinch and given a choice of one or the other..Glue or underpinning well I use the underpinner. No reason..I am sure the glue would hold , but to be safe I would rather use a "V"-nail. Just a personal preference thing. Like which glue to use...if it works and your happy with it..then who cares! Another question might be " what gluse not to use"?
 
Frank's Fabric Adhesive as I underpin.

It's in my roller, that is in a plastic bag, that sits on my tables, for weeks at a time... [as anybody who has taken my classes can attest.]

I roll the lower 3/4 of the moulding and stop shy of the back edge. Then put the roller back in the bag. Ready anytime I need it.

I also roll the adhesive on the back of frames to apply the paper. Much cheaper than ATG.

On corners, I have had Frank's pull fiber out of the joint.
 
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