Glazing with a floater frame?

Tommy P

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Nov 16, 2003
Posts
870
Loc
Mid North Indiana
Have a streched canvas that a customer wants framed with glass. Would prefer a floater style frame so as not to loose any of the edge of the piece. Of course a floater has no lip. How do I approach this???

It's probably very obvious but my mind is in a fog this morning,...... :rolleyes:
 
Neilsen 100? Really tall with a lip for glass.

Or really thick floater and router out a lip for the glass. Put togther three sides insert glass and join fourth. Oh yeah, don't forget to put in the painting!
 
Thanks Bob!

With the Nielsen how do you mount the canvas to this moulding? Is there room for screws at the mouldings back lip??
 
The bottom is the same as any metal frame. Meaning its a little over 1/2" wide. When I have used metal for floating I have either used the hanging hardware to attach the screws into the back of the stretchers. I have also bent little hooks out of the canvas offsets to grip the metal lips.

A thought might be to slide a piece of 1/4" luan onto the channel that the spring clips go into.
 
Edie!

I likke your twoframesismomoney approach! Plus it looks cool too!
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Just use any shadowbox profile and make sidewall spacers to hold the glass at the front. Make the spacers slightly deeper than the height of the stretched canvas. Overall size of the frame would be the painting dimensions plus desired border width- usually not too wide. Screw through the backings into the stretcher to center the painting within the package. Black backing and spacers basically "disappear", but feel free to experiment with other colors instead. This method allows for a lot more design options than you would have with purpose-specific floater mouldings.

:cool: Rick
 
You can also use a regular frame with a rabbet if you don't really care to see the sides of the canvas. Cut it just big enough to expose the canvas edge and use side walls as in a shadowbox to secure the glass in. Fasten something like lattice to the back of the stretcher which can be fastened to the back of the frame or use mending straps or offsets to hold the canvas in place.
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Terry- Sounds like our recipes are basically the same, except that mine involves a bit of a gap between the painting's edge and the spacered rabbet.
Nice frame for that painting!
:cool: Rick
 
Yeah, we must have posted at the same time. Sometimes you want to see all the way to the edge of the painting but not the sides. Thanks for the compliment. The frame and finish are of my my own making.
 
Or--you could just get a plexibox made with black sides. The box would screw in to the sizes of the stretcher bar. Just make it deep enough to not have the plexi touch the top/paint.

Or--you could frame with a floater and put a plexi-box over that.

Of course, these would only work if they want the thin-noframe-look.
 
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