glass cleaner

subaluba

Grumbler
Joined
Jun 25, 2000
Posts
39
Loc
El Cajon CA usa
What kind of glass cleaner do you use? Does anyone make their own?
We use vinegar windex and endust for electronics for the plexi.

If anyone has a good mix for making it yourself, please share.
 
At the shop I work at, we have a very expensive, ammonia-free spray cleaner, along with K-dry towels....I've never asked the price because frankly I don't want to know. *G*

I know that for true archival work you are supposed to use some kind of vinegar-based cleaner, to prevent outgassing, but I'm not sure exactly what it is. I've used Windex at home for casual framing, but it streaks; and the generic brands streak even worse. Not to mention that they contain ammonia, which is terrible to use on UV glass....

But if anyone DOES know the recipe for the vinegar-based archival cleaner, or where you get it, I'd like to know. (I have my eye on that future shop, you know.
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I don't care what color your sofa is.
 
Tru Vue makes an excellent glass cleaner that works well on both glass and acrylic.

There have been several discussions about glass cleaner on this forum. Try the topic titled "Glass Storage" from June 23, 1999 for a recipe. I don't think you'll find many conservators who recommend vinegar as a glass cleaner in framing because of the acid. If it is recommended, I'd like to know about it. Windex is a "no-no" because of the ammonia.
 
Subaluba, the two homemade recipes for cleaning glass (windows) are as follows:
1/2 cup sudsy ammonia
1 pint rubbing alcohol
1 tsp. dishwasing liquid
Mix w/ enough water to make a gallon

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1/2 cup vinegar to 1 gallon of water or 2 tablespoons per quart

BUT these recipes do not apply to picture framing glass although I do know that many frame shops use the 1st recipe I gave you.

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How cheap do you want it to look??
 
I've been using Larson-Juhl's glass cleaner for the last year and have been very happy with it. No ammonia on the ingredients label just various alcohols. I don't know why anybody would call it expensive at $2 a can. Somehow I can't get excited about a cost of 5-10¢ per frame job for a glass cleaner that works. Sometimes I think people have a tendency to spent 10¢ trying to save a nickle.
For cleaning rags check Lowe's, Homebase, or Home Depot for lint free glass cleaning towels, they all handle them. Another source would be a bar supply outfit. Bar towels work real well.
 
The ONLY cleaner that can be safely used is distilled water and alcohol, preferable ethyl or grain alcohol, mixed approximately 10:1..
Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) often contains perfumes - don't use it.

Detergents, ammonia, vinegar, etc. are all harmful to art. Phosphorous, potassium, and sodium deposits (which may be contained in commercial cleaners) can be harmful to coated glass.

There is a lot of material on this subject in the Grumble archives which should help avoid controversy.

Orton
 
We used to drink that stuff--mixed with grape juice--from a cattle watering bin. (Haven't thought about PurplePassion for years.) Should I get it at the liquor store, or will a Home Depot fill the bill?
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Hi MM,

Why not just a good Chardonay. Just think of all the work we wouldn't get done!!

LOL


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Timberwoman
AL
I cut the mat, I pet the =^..^= cat.
 
I like it....a squirt for the glass and a squirt for me....a squirt for the glass and a squirt for me....wonder what my framing would look like after a few hours of this...
 
Hi MerpsMom

. . . some folks around here still do - the liquor store or the drug store - ask for pure grain alcohol.

. . . just make sure that you are using ethyl and NOT methyl if you intend to engage in a little personal quality-control imbibing: methyl will cause blindness if it doesn't kill you first.

I'd pass on the chardonnay in favour of riesling.
 
I'm with you, Orton. You did, however, leave out an important step: Get the alcohol. Test it, by tasting, for quality. (Don't want to ruin a customer's art with inferior alcohol) 2) Apply a small amount to glass. 3) Taste again to be sure no impurities have entered your alcohol. 4) Wipe glass with your choice of towel/wipe. 5) Check purity of alcohol once again. (When it comes to customer's art, you can't be too careful) 6) Apply more alcohol to glass. 7) Check again for contamination of alcohol. 8) Wipe glass some more. 9) Taste alcohol again. One can never be too careful here. 10) Clean up glass off of floor, order/cut new piece. 11) Check purity of cleaner once more. 12) Go to bed and figure out what to tell boss when you call in sick tomorrow.
 
Back to the subject.
As an all around glass cleaner we use those cheap plastic squeeze bottles they use for catsup and mustard.

With all due respect to Orton, I'm ashamed to admit we use plain old rubbing alcohol.


Fill the bottle halfway with alcohol, the rest of the way with water. Put a heaping small screwdriver full of rottenstone, shake well and squirt it on the glass.


We use flatfold cotton diapers for glass cleaning. They last for years and can be washed over & over. aves us a fortune in paper towels.

It takes a little practice to determine the correct amount of rottenstone. To much will cause muddy streaks, not enough will not cut the silicone powder on the glass.

John
 
[This message has been edited by JRB (edited March 06, 2001).]
 
Thanks for taking my question seriously. You never know unless you ask. I appreciate the help! <BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Orton:
The ONLY cleaner that can be safely used is distilled water and alcohol, preferable ethyl or grain alcohol, mixed approximately 10:1..
Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) often contains perfumes - don't use it.

Detergents, ammonia, vinegar, etc. are all harmful to art. Phosphorous, potassium, and sodium deposits (which may be contained in commercial cleaners) can be harmful to coated glass.

There is a lot of material on this subject in the Grumble archives which should help avoid controversy.

Orton
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
 
John: You're still buying powder pack? I switched to paper pack years ago and never looked back. The time I save in cleaning and the low mess factor made up for the extra cost of paper. At the time I switched we were doing wet mounts and we started using the paper for counter mounting the posters. Worked great. No waste!
Also I found the diapers tended to be a little "linty" so switched to bar towels. You can get a dozen towels for about $7-8 and they last forever.
 
Straight alcohol and 2 to 3 teaspoons of calcium carbonate (chalk) mixed in a small plastic squeeze bottle is fast and effective.We have tried adding water and detergent but they slow the evaporation of the alcohol too much.
 
It seems that when this subject surfaces, a few suggested recipes contain powdered abrasives, the necessity of which I have trouble understanding. Water and ethyl alcohol should be enough to remove the kind of dirt that most frame shops will encounter when preparing picture glass.

I speculate that the intent of adding powdered abrasive is to remove stubborn dirt, but I suggest that the disadvantages of doing so outweight any advantage.

Dust, any dust is not desirable in the mat package because dust holds moisture. Moisture cause bad things to happen.

Although we have never tested the practice of introducing powdered abrasives into our glass cleaner, I speculate that it is just not possible to completely remove all of the powder from the glass surfaces, no matter how fastidiously it is wiped. Therefore, the residual powder left on the glass after wiping will remain inside the mat package, to eventually fall as dust onto the artwork.

While dry calcium carbonate may be less harmful to artwork than some other chemicals, it's dust will eventually collect moisture, running the risk that it may become chemically active with the art medium.

Of greater concern is rottenstone, which is made from sulphur-bearing volcanic pumice. The dust may react with atmospheric moisture, to produce sulphuric or sulphurous acid, which is bad news for art.

. . . so I question the wisdom of adding powdered abrasives.

[This message has been edited by Orton (edited March 13, 2001).]
 
My best guess about adding abrasives is that window cleaners add it to their solution in order to get street grime off of the outside of windows. It seems that I have heard about adding abrasives forever, so it could have to do with oil burning lamps.

Alcohol with a little distilled water works for me. Orton, do you know what is in the Tru Vue cleaner?
 
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