Gilders Paste-tips and tricks

SusanG

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Jul 1, 1999
Posts
2,362
Loc
Holland, PA, USA
I'm new to Gilders Paste. Does anyone have any tips/tricks? Does it matter if it is dried out? Can it be thinned? Looks like a nifty product. Previously I used acrylics paint as a wash/tint and had great results. Some of these colors seem a bit richer. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Susan
 
Yes it can be thinned with paint thinner. If the paste dries out, pour some paint thinner into the can and let it sit for awhile. Sometimes the stuff dries out completely and it takes awhile for it to get soft again. You can also mix colors together to create new colors. Just remember, like removes like. So if you plan on layering colors, the second color will remove the first. Seal between layers with shellac or lacquer which I spray instead of wiping on as sometimes the sealer will remove the color when rubbed on.
 
Personally don`t see how I could live without the stuff! Yes,it will dry out,pretty quickly too, once opened.You can easily thin it with mineral spirits(paint thinner).I keep the little cans in individual zip top bags,so they stay softer.Gotta let it set up good before it is polished,or if you want a second coat.Plaid`s treasure coat is somewhat easier to use.It dries almost instantly and can be buffed to a high gloss...But...It ONLY comes in those tiny lil tubs,I asked the company.BTW,Treasure Coat thins with Turpentine.I wouldn`t put turpentine in Baroque art,just because it smells like mineral spirits as it is,can`t imagne that chemical mix! You can get some cool effects by putting Gilt Wax over flat acrylic base coats in various colors too! L.R.
 
I've been framing for well over fourty years and I think I have tried everything. We even made our own nail hole filler from wax and dried pigments or bronzing powders, many years ago. I have wasted all kinds of money on things like Rub N Buff and a host of others, over the years.

Gilders paste is hands down the best product I have ever used. There is no waste, you can fill dents and holes with it, you can mix it. I wish I had discovered it a long time ago.

John
 
I use it on more than frames.

I made a print rack and dry brushed 2 different colors over the edges and stick out parts for that rubbed aged look. $20.00 chest of drawers to unique print rack!

I am using it on a ceramic plant stand display now.

Try it also on those brite ugly golds and wow you can get some pretty results.

TIP!! wear gloves

Keep in sealed box alot of the little cans are to much smell.
 
The guy who supplies it was demonstrating it in the United booth at WCAF. He told me you can use mineral spirits or turpentine (which is what he used) to thin/soften it. He said just be sure to avoid Turpenoid, which is a less-smelly turpentine substitute.
:cool: Rick
 
Glad you mentioned that, Rick. I use Turpenoid to clean my brushes and will resist the urge to use it as a thinner for gilder's paste.
 
He said just be sure to avoid Turpenoid, which is a less-smelly turpentine substitute.
:cool: Rick
Why? What would be the advantage over less-smelly? Don't get me wrong, I actually like the smell of turpentine, but in this case, why not turpenoid? What's the difference? Diluted? Water?

Curious minds want to know.
 
The guy who supplies it was demonstrating it in the United booth at WCAF. He told me you can use mineral spirits or turpentine (which is what he used) to thin/soften it. He said just be sure to avoid Turpenoid, which is a less-smelly turpentine substitute.
:cool: Rick

Thanks,Wasn`t sure about the Turpentine.I never heard anything about it,so wasn`t prepared to say yes,or no. GLOVES?!! I like my finger permanently gold... L.R.
 
Can't remember what the reason was, Val. Different solvent, I guess. He did specifically say this, though. The paste he was demonstrating with had been thinnned to the consistency of, well, paste... like the old school paste. He used a small spatula to mix it around, and both brushes and cosmetic sponges for the application
:cool: Rick.
 
2 more F.Y.I's

paste wax disturbs the gilders paste colors and makes them lighter but gives you a wonderful buffed finish on wood. it just feels good!

Also scrubb products used for pedicures help get the stain off your hands with out the harshness of chemicals like more turps!!!! Yea! Yea! I forgot my gloves when I went to paste and buff. But the blue sets off my eyes!!!:faintthud:
 
FYI Ref thinning

For enquiring minds (like myself) I offer this from the gilderspaste.com website

Q: The product is hard, is there anything I can do to rejuvenate the product.

A: Yes, just add a few drops of either; paint thinner, mineral spirits, turpentine or Turpenoid (turpentine substitute) knife in and mix. You're ready to go. The ability to rejuvenate this product allows a long shelve life. There is no need to mix up the whole tin, just mix what you need as you need it. Gilders Paste goes a long way. (see “Coverage”)

Important: Do not use any oil base cleaners/solvents such as Turpenoid Natural. The oil content of these type of cleaners/solvents will not allow the Gilders Paste to dry and will remain wet or tacky for days to weeks. If you have accidentally used this type cleaner/solvent leave the tin open until completely dried out and then follow the suggestion for rejuvenation above.


From the second paragraph I learnt that there are two types of Turpenoid. I love the stuff and I have been using Turpenoid to thin it with no apparent ill-effects.

Clive.
 
Actually, they should have been named the opposite of what they are named, straight turpenoid is just that, ... a solvent with nothing else added. The Turpenoid "Natural" has oily additives to condition brushes and fragrance added to make it smell good! I can't understand that, when a product is almost as odorless as it can be made, why do the mfr's insist on adding an odor??? It is touted as being a substitute for Turpentine but odorless. Who asked for an odor to be added to turpenoid??? :shrug:

Some people just can't leave well enough alone!!
 
I met the gentleman who came up with this product last year in Vegas. He was very happy and quite surprised with the variety of applications framers found for his product. I was wondering if this is a product that could be used in a paint gun? I know I have the term wrong, but the spray guns you would use for model cars and that type of thing. It was a thought that I had thinking that the paint could be applied evenly. Then when it dries it could be waxed. Or even used steel wool to knock down the finish to present an shabby chic look.

Just a thought?
 
Thanks for all of the tips! I went to my friendly chop supplier today, and they let me take some pieces of length from the trash barrel to play. I'm really psyched!

Susan
 
Rejuvenate Gilders Paste

There is nothing wrong with using "Turpenoid" the turpentine substitute. However there will be a problem with "Turpenoid Natural" which has an high oil content and primarily used for cleaning brushes. Turpenoid Natural will not allow Gilders Paste to dry in any reasonable amount of time. For more FAQ please visit www.gilderspaste.com
 
Gilders Paste is used in spray guns. Gilders Paste has been used to tint lacquer. However I think TurnerAssociatesdy above wanted to use Gilders Paste in an air brush sprayer. Unfortunalty some of the high concentrations of pigments and the blend of waxes used are to large to effectively be use in an air brush system. However we are experimenting with formulations to meet this market. Stay Tuned - www.gilderspaste.com
 
Thanks all for the help. I received the product and mixed my colors (bestine seemed to work ok...)

I got a few scraps from the trash of my frame supplier, did a few tests, and tacked my project. I had to make a fillet that came in too gold match a silvery moulding. Wow, it was painless and looked superb! Customer even gave me a hug a pickup! :)

Warning: this stuff is a bit crumbly. You might want to put an extra layer of paper down or use it in a very safe place away from art. Seems as it could present the same problems as escape nail hole filler.

Susan
 
I've been framing for well over fourty years and I think I have tried everything. We even made our own nail hole filler from wax and dried pigments or bronzing powders, many years ago. I have wasted all kinds of money on things like Rub N Buff and a host of others, over the years.

Gilders paste is hands down the best product I have ever used. There is no waste, you can fill dents and holes with it, you can mix it. I wish I had discovered it a long time ago.

John
I'm in South Africa and used a local make of gilders paste in a tube - it was still a bit tacky after 12 hours and wouldn't buff - very dull. I tried to remove using mineral turps but dudn't help. Please can you advise what you use that buffs to a good shine. My stuff ruined my articles and I'm desperate to fix. Thanks
 
Most 'Gilder's Paste' products are wax based and mixed with bronze powders with a solvent. They aren't
really meant for gilding as such but filling small gaps defects. On the surface they are easily worn off when
handled. There are 'paints' that are bronze powders bound with varnish and these are hard-wearing when
dry not easy to blend in with a leafed finish.
 
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