gapping corners

Farm Girl

Grumbler
Joined
Mar 19, 2002
Posts
45
Location
Centreville, Va. 20120
I am using the Neilson 100 profile for a 31" x 33" shadowboxed jersey. Looks great except for the gapping at the corners! Is this size too large for this frame? Can this be fixed? I searched the archives and tried the suggestions for general metal frames but they don't see to work on this shadowbox profile. Frustrated!
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yes we limit the #100 to 20x24. its the shear of the glass being so far away from the hardware.
 
Try this... Remove the screws from the tapped corner. Turn the corner over with the writing facing down. Put the screws back in and try it again. The Nielson corners have a slight bias in one direction. Doing this may move the gap to the back instead of the front.
 
You can actually bend the pressure plate a tiny bit, it will force the corners together even more.
That frame size should still work. If bending the pressure plate does not work, contact Nielsen, see what they say.

John
 
I've done up to 32x40's in the 100 profile, and have had few, if any problems. The ones that I have had issues with were due to poor chopping (the corners were a MESS!), and I simply had them replaced.

I should also mention that I have been using the AMS hardware on all my Nielsen frames, as I have been having issues with the Nielsen hardware I have gotten in the past. I was running into the problem that any frame I would use the Nielsen hardware on would gap, and gap BADLY, but when I used the AMS hardware, the same frame went together perfectly.

Has anyone else had a similar issue? I haven't purchased any Nielsen hardware in over a year because of the issue.
 
We use a lot of the #100 profile Nielsen frames with no problems, even in larger sizes.

The others who suggested poor miters may be right, and I've had issues with some hardware fits, too. AMS is my choice.

At some large size -- larger than 32x40 -- the weight of glass might force a separation of the bottom corners of this deep moulding, due to leveraged deflection of the bottom rail.

In sizes larger than 32x40 we use thin acrylic instead of glass. It's safer as well as lighter.
 
Thanks for all the input. Tried bending hardware, no help. I took Hugh Phibbs course at the Smithsonian this spring and he mentioned this profile being prone to gapping corners. I'm using acrylic. Spoke to Neilson, and they suggested replacing the frame and cutting it in such a way to decrease this gapping tendancy. We'll see.
 
Wow, I thought that I was the only one with gapping corners caused by bad hardware. I had thought that the corners were chopped wrong, but it was a generic brand of hardware which was the culprit. Larson Juhl(Philadelphia) and Nielson (Chris) were ever so kind in helping me with the problem and Chris had me switch to the "quick-corner." Ever since switching I have not had the problem. It was funny though that I had ordered the same hardware from the same supplier for 15+ years and never had the problem.

Susan Gittlen
Whispering Woods Gallery
Holland PA
 
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