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Gap Filler / Touch Up


SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Feb 14, 2004
Nicholasville, KY
Hello :) I just ordered chopped from Omega #79606. It is a white / cream frame. The only down side is that it is one of those frames with the red colored layer under the white.

I will need some filler / touch up for this frame. Can anyone recommend any that actually dries? I am not a big fan of the stuff that does not dry and seems to get on everything as the frame is handled?

All local supplier has does not harden at all and is a pain to work with.

PS: Frame will have two thumbnails in each corner and be assembled with the inserts and a nice strap system that always seems to work fine :)
Most of the time I order the gold or white frames joined so I dont have to worry about that headache but this one is too big.


What is the main problem with your chop? Is it a bad chop that may have gaps in the miters when joined? Or is it the red base coat that you are afraid will show in the finished miter?

If the latter, I would use a white acrylic craft paint to color the edges of the miters before joining. I always color the edges of raw wood or contrasting color on the miters. It saves alot of finish work if your miters are tight and it will help with any additional filling if you get gaps in your miters from bad chops.

And I learned either from this forum or from HitchHikers that you can mix white glue with touchup and have a goop that dries...
Mainly since it is an ornate frame, just to cover where the designs dont match up. Also my main concern is the red "undercoat" will show up even if the joint is perfect.

Ellen's idea is very good for mouldings that match along the edge of the miters. But, if I am understanding you correctly, you want to color those little points that don't always match up on the compo part of an ornate frame. In that case, it may be good to color the high points with acrylic and then mix the color into the glue when you join the frame. You can kill both birds at once that way. The mismatched edges of the compo will have the red gesso covered and your joints will be tight and filled at the same time.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

It isn't always possible to get the 'ups' to match the 'downs', especially on the fourth corner. Sometimes it helps to shave away some of the compo to ease the transition, then go with the acrylic paint.

There are two products that I have purchased at Menard's, or at Ace Hardware, that work very well for filling gaps on wood surfaces, and won't rub off. I believe that both are made with bees wax.

The products are Dap Blend Wood and MinWax Blend-Fil. Both are in a pencil or stick form, and are rubbed into the gaps or holes like a crayon. The surface excess can easily be removed with adheisive release. MinWax Blend-Fil pencil has a plain wax color stick (I think it's called Bleached Pine)that I have used and tinted with pigmented markers to match mouldings that are in colors other than wood tones.

In one case I was able to repair a bad scratch on a very expensive moulding, that had a bees wax finish on it, by melting Blend Wood's darkest brown stick together with a little of the black Amoco Nail Hole Filler. It worked perfectly and the flaw totally disappeared. This method should work the same with the white Amoco and the lightest pine color of the Blend Wood on your project.

[ 10-19-2004, 12:13 PM: Message edited by: Pat Kotnour ]
Thanks for all the help :) I appreciate it