Framing Tables ...

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Pangolin

Pangolin

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Feb 1, 2008
Posts
1,187
Loc
Columbus, Ohio
This is a little off the wall, but....

1.How high are your framing tables?

2.how tall are you (or the employees in your shop)?

3. What is the cover (top) layer on your tables?


I'm working on re-designing my table - the current one is 37" high. I'm 5' tall. I have to stand on a stool to cut mats. (I can't reach far enough standing on the floor.)

The previous owner built the main framing table out of baking racks (laid on their sides) with a 3/4" particle-board top and then taped down corrugated cardboard sheets to make a table top.
It's a terrible design, a horrible height, it isn't even (level) and the cardboard top isn't all that nice to work on.
 
A work table should be a bit over your waist, not too low as to strain your back , not too highthat you look like a munchkin.
 
That sounds about right Randy. I designed mine for putting a 32" board in them. They are 36" high which is the height of my waste. My wife is 4'9" and has to use a stool to fit. If you want to stop by sometime, I would be happy to show them to you.
 
Yea good point you alwasy want to maximize storage, mine are the same.
 
I understand about maximizing storage - and normally I would agree. However, since I'm a one-person shop, and I do everything, it seems to me that I should at least be comfortable in my own workspace.

I have a lot of space in my back room and I'm working on building shelving for the glass and mats so that I can lower the table. (The current table has the mats stored under it.)
 
I build all of my work tables at 32" plus the OSB. I have them covered with carpet. The reason for 32" is that is an 8' 2x4 cut in 3 equal pieces. Saves money on lumber and quick to cut. I'm 5' 10" with back problems and it is very comfortable at that height.

My design table is the same height and customers seem to like it lower so they can see the design easier.
 
I personally think that, if you are working on designing your benches to fit your stance, you are passing up a great chance to capitalize on some very useful storage space. I built these workbenches 22 years ago out of cabinet grade Baltic birch plywood and oak and I designed them to be 39" tall (to fit my 5'11" frame), 4' wide and I utilized almost every square inch of storage space for one thing or another.

This one is my finishing/fitting table and has an offset top to accomodate my mat cutter so it sets flush with the carpeted top. I made shelves in both ends for miscellaneous supplies and trash cans, and mat boards are stored in the rest of the bench under the top which is 4' wide and 8' long.
mattable1.jpg


This is my joining table and it incorporates an offset for a joining vise, and my underpinner is sitting on a shelf so that so that both pieces of equipment are flush with the workbench top. Adjustable shelves and drawers on both sides of the bench offer more storage for hand tools, cutoffs, and other "stuff".
joiningbench3.jpg


This bench stores boxes of glass and also my oval cutter and my shrink wrap machine. It is the simplest of the workbenches that I built.
glassbench.jpg


I also built a chop saw table and a 12' customer counter with full storage space via adjustable shelving in each but you get the idea from the attached photos. These have served me quite well through my entire framing career and I still have them in operation here in Florida. My thoughts at the time were, if you are going to spend the time and money to build something truly custom for your shop, you may as well build something substantial and pleasant to look at. Add totally functional to the list of benefits and the investment was well worth it in my opinion.
 
I like a 32 table for mat cutting, maybe a little higher for fitting but I am not a fan of a high table.

What storage? Unless you are sliding matboard in under the table there is not much storage you are going to lose with four inches. PLus a new table properly configured will increase storage rather than an awkward make do construction.

Do what is comfortable to you. If you feel you need a shorter table, then make it shorter. It is a pain to have to step up on a stool constantly and impedes the flow of moving from one space to the next.
 
Waist height seems to make sense. My tables are 40" and my waist is 40" from the floor with shoes on. I have a 40" counter in my kitchen for my prep activities - anything less and I wind up with a sore back.
 
More Info - lots of space to work with!

Not to worry guys - I'm planning on building storage into the tables, however, I already have one counter that is built into one wall (it was already here) that houses most of the random little stuff and is used for finishing pieces - attaching the hangers, stickers, final cleaning and wrapping.

The main table right now is 37" high with a top that is 80" x 96", but everything has to be done on that table - joining, fitting, mat cutting, even the v-nailer sits flush with the top, and the mat cutter sits in an off-set so it is flush with the top as well. (The mats are currently stored under the table, but they are getting bent corners and kick marks because the top doesn't overhang the base.) I have a huge space to work with, and what is here (that the previous guy just sort of threw together) isn't what I would like it to be, nor is it comfortable for me.

Tom - thanks for the great pictures - they're giving me all kinds of ideas!

I've already started building new shelving for my mats and glass (which I mentioned before, I know) that can hold a box of 36"x48" glass. I'm stacking the shelving 2 levels high with a space between for rubbermaid "drawers". This way the work table can be adjusted to my height and comfort rather than to specifications to store mats.

The main problem with the table the way it is, is that I can't really reach the middle of it, and to cut mats I have to climb up on the table, straddle the mat cutter to cut full-sheet mats - it's just crazy.

I have a big enough space - my main workshop space is 20'x28' so I have some room to work with. (I also have another small room that houses my chopper, saw, and oval mat cutter when I'm not using it.)
 
A fellow framer in my area has his mat cutter at an incline lengthwise. The end he stands at to cut is on the bench with the opposite end raised 12 to 16 inches. Says he can reach further with it that way.
 
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