Framing Sports Illustrated Magazines

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CarolinaMoon

Grumbler in Training
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Feb 22, 2005
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Loc
Charlotte, NC
A friend of mine called me today and asked if I could frame several (i.e. 8 to be exact) Sports Illustrated magazines for him to give as a birthday gift to his father. I have decided to go ahead and use a foamboard strip recess attached to the backing board and hidden by the window mat which will be a 1/2 overlapped around the edges. After an experimentation, this seems to be the best way to do this.

My dilemma is such that the magazine measures 8 x 10 1/2 and I am trying to decide if I should go ahead and use a standard size of 11x14 with appropriate borders and keep it quick and simple or go ahead make the frame more customized with a 14 1/2 x 12 frame and 2 inch borders.

Any suggestions would be appreciated and if someone has other ideas on framing the project I am all ears and open. Thanks in advance.
Rob
 
We call the method you described a "sink mount". It works OK, but because the whole magazine is hidden under the mat, it appears to be only the cover.

The best mount for any kind of book is the clear film "Book Mount". This method gives the book the best overall support, and shows all edges as well as the cover. And if you practicew a few times, it doesn't take any more labor than trimming & precisely fitting the sink mount. You can float mount it on an elevated surface, if you like. You can get a full description & instructions in the archives, but here it is briefly:

1. Cut a strip of clear film to go vertically under the cover of the book; full width, 3x height.

2. Cut a strip to go horizontally around the book; full height, 3x width.

3. Fold the strips to conform exactly to the shape of the pages edges; crease sharply.

4. After the vertical strip is placed under the cover, join the ends of the horizontal strip together behind the book, using 3M #889 double-sided tape. Note: No tape on the book - only on the wrapper.

5. Cut horizontal slots in the mount board and pass the ends of the vertical strip through; secure to back of mount board.
 
I use the sink mount method as well as encapsulating the magazine in a 4-mil MylarD sleeve (available from BCEMylar.com or BagsUnlimited.Com). I also use a hinged back so that the magazine is removable at any time. I have some pictures of my method on my site at www.thePaperFramer.Com.
 
OK, We just did this for a customer, Only it was old comic books.

Here's what we did,

I cut a top mat with and inch larger opening, so we could float the books.

Then we took a solid backing board (c1721) black and laid the book on there and marked slit a little below the top of the book and a little above the bottom.

We then cut slits there just a little smaller then the width of the books.
We then put Mylar through the slit and placed the book under it with the cover open.

We pulled tight from the back and secured with very strong tape.
We then closed the front cover and with acid free filament tape we secured the corners.

We raised the outer mat with foamcore and attached to the backing .

With the inch all around the customer was able to see the whole book with no edges covered.

It was a great look and very conservation friendly. Not perfect but close!

Using the black background is a great affect of depth, it really looks like its floating.

:D my customer was very pleased. He works for a TV station and I have seen them used in the back drop a few times and they look great on TV.

Jennifer
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Jennifer, Larry, Jim, Jerry,
Thanks so much for helping me out with this.
I love the float mount idea but wasn't too sure how to mount the magazine. Boy, I have a lot to learn.
Rob
 
Jennifer,
Little clarification please...
When you said "We then put Mylar through the slit..." do you mean sliding it through the back of the backing board, around the magazine, and slid through the bottom slit? Also, what type of Mylar product did you use? How wide were the foamcore strips you used around the mat? Thanks in advance.
 
Originally posted by J Phipps TN:
...We then put Mylar through the slit and placed the book under it with the cover open.
We pulled tight from the back and secured with very strong tape. We then closed the front cover and with acid free filament tape we secured the corners...
Click to expand...
This method is similar to the Book Mount, except that the cover is not supported as well.

Jennifer, I'm curious about your tapes. Would you please describe the "very strong tape" and acid free filament tape" in more detail? I'm always looking for better tapes to use on clear film.
 
Jim,
Do happen to know the archive link to the Book Mount method you describe. I could not locate it. Thanks.
Rob
 
To be haonest Jim I used framers tape. and to make sure it would stay I ATGed the foamecare to the backing board. I figured the pressure would make it even stronger.

The other tape was actually Filmoplast P90. I remembered wrong and went back and double checked. Sorry for the confusion.

But it worked great and looked even better.

And Carolina Moon,

There are two slits. One is just below the top of where the book will lay and one just above the bottom of where the book will lay.(I'm talking less then an 1/8 of an inch). The mylar is through both of them and then slide the book with the front cover open under the loop of mylar and pull tightly from the back. Not so tight that you bend the book, but tight enough to hold it down securely.

It really doesn't matter what tape you use on the back. It won't ever touch the work but it needs to be pretty strong.

Hope that was a little clearer.

Jennifer
 
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