Framing Jerseys

Bud Cole

True Grumbler
Joined
May 30, 2000
Posts
68
Loc
Maineville Ohio USA
I would like some suggestions from all experts out there in framing jerseys. They are a real pain and time consuming. Sewing to the backing is difficult and definitely not my forte`. How do you attach the jersey to the backing? Do you have any magic tricks that you use? Attaching to the backing leaves a mess. Do you then cover this with a sheet of matboard so it doesn`t show to the customer? Conservation is at the top of the list. This is one of only a few posts for me as I usually just read the info. I always enjoy the many varied ways framers do different tasks!!! Thanks so much for your help!!! Bud Cole
 
Hi, Bud. Welcome to the group if noone already has. (?) You will find just worlds of info on this topic in the Search engine. Go to Search, type in Jerseys or something like that, choose the Grumble forum, and you'll find it.
 
See my answer under the forum "Framing Design". I really don't want to type all that in again.

Betty
 
I really, really, really HATE framing hockey jerseys and do about one a month. (Give me a latch hook rug or a kidney transplant anytime!)

I sew them to the backing board and charge $87.00 to do this. Yes, it's time-consuming but not messy. I use a hammer and nail to make pairs of holes about 1/2 inch apart at every point where the jersey will need to be supported. Using a doubled strand of cotton thread, bring the thread up through a hole, through the underside of the fabric, and down through the other hole. No stitches show on the front.

Welcome to the Grumble, Bud. Email me if what I'm trying to describe isn't clear to you.

Kit
 
Like Kit, I absolutely HATE jersey projects. I am in the middle of one now where all you hear in the back is @#!%!! as I drop needles, bend needles, or am unable to thread needles and am basically performing gymnastics trying to sew underneath....you get the picture!
As a solution, I have decided to double my mounting charge to $130 (2 hours). For this original signed Bobby Hull jersey, I'm sure there would not have been any complaints.
Procedure for me is:
Fabric mat always. Use large enough needle but not too large as to mark material. Poke 2 holes at every needed point using needle held with wire nippers. Stuff shirt to give it body with alpha rage mat. Sew through stuffing as well.
Oh, and remember not to tear off any "officially liscensed products" tags. Customer might get mad.
I always use double mats as well. I feel it finishes it off better, not to mention adding profit. The finished size is usually 40 x 50
Also, as for backing, I use artcare foamboard. I Don't worry about thread hanging off the back because its covered anyway, but if the client happens to see the work in progress, it's just proof that its sewn on rather than taped.
 
<blockquote>quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by lise:
Poke 2 holes at every needed point using needle held with wire nippers.<hr></blockquote>

Lise, I make the holes in the board from the back with a push pin then put the needle up and back down through, and tie a knot.

Betty
 
I think that we may have stumbled onto an idea that can make framing a jersey or any kind of shirt a bit easier.
After looking through a store one day I saw an acrylic form that had a shirt on it in a display window for men's clothing. You may have seen them, they are partial shaped forms for men's and women's clothing and they have a hanging hole in the middle at the top where the neck is. After some digging, we called a store that provides hangers ect for clothing stores and tracked down an extra large men's form.
The only problem with the form was that it was about four inches deep so we cut it down and slid it under the jersey, it gives form to the jersey and all we really did was hang the form from the inside top of the frame. No stitching the jersey, all you have to do is gather the extra material and place it in the back of the form in the natural hollow. There is a photo of it on a mini websight directory.
www.adcustomframe.zip411.com

As for the forms, if any one wants to see them, I can find the websight and post it.

Nikki
 
Thanks to all that responded. I really appreciate your input. You all have great ideas and I find that I can incorporate them into my practice. The search idea from MM was particularly helpful.
 
Sorry to prolong this topic. Talked with a fellow framer that gave this idea. He uses twist pins to hold the backing to the fomecore filled jersey. He says its just like using a needle as the jersey isn`t damaged by the pin going through the material. They are rust resistent and sure do look great. For those that aren`t familiar with the twist pins--they are the things that hold arm chair covers on our upholstered chairs. The heads are clear plastic and the pin is curled like a pigs tail. Any thoughts?????? Thank again!!!!!!
 
I wonder what the twist pin metal is made of?

I make an acid free fome core form and put it inside the jersey. I lay the jersey upside down on the back of my cotton mat board and draw around it. Then I use the drill to drill my sets of double holes to stitch through. I lay the jersey on the front of the board right side up and the holes match my jersey . Then I stitch through the fome core and the back of the jersey. No stitches show and the jersey is supported.
 
I'd like to go on record as actually liking to frame jerseys. I just got done doing 8 for one customer. They were actually for a Denver Broncos wife. I start my holes through the mat board with a T-pin. I also use invisible quilting thread to sew with. It is very strong and it is for fabric. I usually use foamcore inside the jersy for a form. You can use dressmaker pins to shape the jersy and keep them in place. Hope this helps. Kathy
 
There is a slim pointed device that you can get from a Fabric store that will allow you to poke holes in a board and is kind to your hands. Once the holes are poked a minimum of stitches in the right places should do the trick. We have it down to about an hour.
 
We do it pretty much like Kit. Seems to work good, and last a long time. We've done a fair amount of jerseys, baby clothes, quilts, etc.
 
I use a tagging gun. It is the kind that retail shops use to put price tags on garments. shoot the little plastic barbs through the fabric pull it tight on the back and tape it down. You can buy one from New England Business Service(the printed forms company). In additon www.Spartacraft.com out of N. Carolina makes a nice display case in two sizes which has a wooden hanger option. The case can be easily opened and the jersey changed for a different one.

Tim Hayes
 
I'd thought about doing that, XLNT, but wondered about the size of the barbs. Some of the really expensive clothing in the stores is not tagged, and I wonder if that has anything to do with it? Is my worry an over-reaction?
 
Hi
The "barbs" are not very thick. One end is "T" shaped and the other end is a flat tab. They make only a small hole, are stronger than thread and the process is easily reversible. Once you get the hang of it, it doesn't take long at all. I have done hundreds of sports jerseys this way.
Tim
 
Call me old fashioned, but I first use dressmaker's pins to lay the Jersey out on the backing, and then I sew it with cotton thread using the holes from the pins. I've also found that using (in my case) a large thimble to protect my fingers makes the ordeal a bit less painful. :D
 
I have been asleep at he wheel again and now here are all of you trying to think up a way to make framing a jersey EASY. We've done that for you and if you will call me or e-mail me directly I will tell you all about it. Any size jersey is fine, we do all custom work.

Lois@spfpinc.com
that would otherwise be

LOIS from Superior Picture Frame Products
(800) 231-6229

website is being worked on and soon you'll see all sorts of framer helper things. You can look now if you like as long as you know it's a work in progress:

www.spfpinc.com
 
Hi there grumblers!

I just got my first Jersey and found this thread.
There are some really good ideas here.
I particularly like the tagging gun idea and the invisible quilters thread.

But I have an idea that I would love to get feed back on.

What if I sewed the jersey to cotton and then stretched the cotton around foam core?

The customer provided the frame which is about an inch deep, so I have to work in these perameters.

thoughts?
 
Originally posted by B. Newman:
See my answer under the forum "Framing Design". I really don't want to type all that in again.

Betty
Now this is a perfect reason NOT to refer to other threads. I don't have a clue what I might have said about framing jerseys! I would have sworn that I wouldn't even post to a thread like this. But ah, the "15 minute edit rule" will ever prove that I did indeed say something! :rolleyes:

Betty
 
LIke Nikki (sp?) we use a form, but have made them out of rag covered Alpha foamboard. Same thing that they're talking about only instead of plastic-based product, this is the preservation-based foam and can cut with an Xacto--or acid free corrugated or maybe even Coroplast? Anything that will give you the form for the shirt.

Haven't tried the Attach-Ez yet but that may reduce time too.

LIke others we really hit the labor charge buttons on these bad boys, too.
 
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