Framing Advice/Input for Large Vintage Print

buldogge

Grumbler in Training
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Hey guys...I'm new to the forum, and hoping I might get some help/advice on a large framing project I am working on. I am not in the framing business, but I am a collector of vintage prints/art and I'm tackling a large (re)framing project.

A little background...The print is quite rare, and quite large. It measures 100" x 36", and is linen backed to ~103" x 39".

I have owned this print for ~25 years...It was framed back then, but not appropriately. I chose the frame, which I very much like, but it is obvious now that it did not have the size/heft/depth needed to properly frame this large piece. Furthermore, the framer I used, only used (2) rag matboards, taped on center, and some cross wiring attempts. The glazing is 1/4" acrylic (I no longer remember the spec, and cannot find the paperwork). The rabbet is probably 3/8" width.

Unfortunately, I left the print in this condition until very recently. The frame is displayed leaning against the wall, as it is (almost) too tall to hang (could be hung by cleat with a standoff large enough to clear our 9" baseboards). This cause rippling/sag over the years, as you can imagine.

In the last couple of weeks of have disassembled everything, and have had the print resting between foam panels/barrier/and the acrylic...some decent flattening has been achieved, but not completely, of course.

I built a new 2" depth box frame from Sapele and added this to the perimeter of the existing frame (glued and screwed), and then refinished the sides. I added 5/16" of depth to the rabbet to allow for DCO mounting using a 1/2" (compressed height) of batting...3 layers of 1/2" used).

I then built a strainer of 5/4 radiata pine (biscuited/glued/pocket screwed) VHB taped to 3mm ACM.

Everything is very solid...but...I am getting bowing (outwards) in the acrylic, unfortunately.

I have tried removing batting on center 12" in 2nd layer, and 16" in 3rd layer (as "concentric windows")...this helped/lessened, but didn't solve the problem, and after the 2nd layer removal, affected the DCO/pressure on the center of the print...and allowed some of the rippling to more prevalent, again, as well.

I can only think of (2) other approaches (gathered from research on these forums)...(1) (perhaps starting/obvious), flip the acrylic in case of have accentuated a previous bowing, and (2) add a "fillet"/wooden mat IN FRONT OF the acrylic, acting as a wider rabbet width. Similar to what Rob Markoff did here: https://www.thegrumble.com/threads/questions-on-framing-an-oversize-linen-backed-antique-poster.72148/post-937447 Questions on framing an oversize linen backed antique poster.

I have about 1" of linen showing around the print, and could fabricate a wood spacer/mat/fillet of say 1.25". Also, I have about 1/2" of frame depth left to play with.

I have a attached a couple photos.

Any thoughts/guidance would be much appreciated.

TIA
-Mark

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I would put a fillet inside the frame expansion reasons, I would then use a linen liner as space between the plexi and the artwork. Crescent makes rag mat board 60 x 104 that you can use for direct backing, then I'd see if you can get polypropylene fluted board larger than 48 x 96 for backing, otherwise I would splice it. Definitely a z bar (cleat) to hang.
 
Do not use batting and hinge the poster.
 
I would put a fillet inside the frame expansion reasons, I would then use a linen liner as space between the plexi and the artwork. Crescent makes rag mat board 60 x 104 that you can use for direct backing, then I'd see if you can get polypropylene fluted board larger than 48 x 96 for backing, otherwise I would splice it. Definitely a z bar (cleat) to hang.
Thanks for the reply...I want to reiterate that the package is backed by 3mm DiBond ACM, in a single sheet...I don't think I need to add coroplast, beyond that. As far as not using a DCO, how do you suggest I hinge a linen backed piece measuring 39" W x 103" H...and...prevent further sagging/rippling?!?

TA
-Mark
 
Do not use batting and hinge the poster.
Given I am not a pro framer, and I don't have a bucket of Beva 371 laying around, do you have any suggestions for hinging type/materials/methods to use?

Also, how to prevent/avoid the inevitable rippling, with such a large piece, if hinged?

TA
-Mark
 
Welcome to the G!

I am a bit puzzled that it is rippling, it being linen backed? I would not put batting behind it. Since you are basically hinging the linen that it is backed with, I would use linen hinges, glued, without it being right behind the poster itself. Then overmat it.
I am always slightly worried about plexiglass right on top of a fragile paper poster.
Hinge and mat would be my preference.
Not sure if the rippling will get out. You might want to contact a paper conservator to see what can be done. Most will attach it appropriately as well
 
Welcome to the G!

I am a bit puzzled that it is rippling, it being linen backed? I would not put batting behind it. Since you are basically hinging the linen that it is backed with, I would use linen hinges, glued, without it being right behind the poster itself. Then overmat it.
I am always slightly worried about plexiglass right on top of a fragile paper poster.
Hinge and mat would be my preference.
Not sure if the rippling will get out. You might want to contact a paper conservator to see what can be done. Most will attach it appropriately as well
Well...It WAS sitting in a frame, basically against the acrylic, with no spacers, no mat, no hinges of any kind...backed only by rag board (loosely, as well) for the last 25 years. Basically the weight of the linen and the length conspired to have it want to crumple to the bottom of the frame...its backwards movement only stopped by the wires crisscrossing the back and the buckled rag board.

I can certainly build a custom wooden spacer/mat...much easier (or at least cheaper) than I can get a large white matboard in my hands, I'm sure.

What kind of linen and glue do you use (or at least recommend?

TA
-Mark
 
Is there enough space in your frame package to allow for the expansion and contraction of the art as changes in climate conditions accrue throughout the year?

Is your studio/home climate controlled 24/7/365?
 
Is there enough space in your frame package to allow for the expansion and contraction of the art as changes in climate conditions accrue throughout the year?

Is your studio/home climate controlled 24/7/365?
The artwork ("linen" backing) and acrylic have about 1/8" clearance...either/both pieces could be trimmed...this work was done by the original "framer".

The piece "hangs" in our dining room...the house is heated/cooled..but like any (most) residential settings has days beginning/end of seasons where HVAC is not utilized.

-Mark
 
The piece "hangs" in our dining room...the house is heated/cooled..but like any (most) residential settings has days beginning/end of seasons where HVAC is not utilized.

That would be the number one cause for your problem. Followed by too tight of the space around the art (sides as well as depth). You, being in St Louis, there are dramatic humidity swings from winter to summer, indoors and outside.
 
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That would be the number one cause for your problem. Followed by to tight of the space around the art (sides as well as depth). You, being in St Louis, there are dramatic humidity swings from winter to summer, indoors and outside.
This much I understand...and...I'm not trying to chase perfection.

I'm mainly trying to improve upon the poor previous framing (easily done, and basically already accomplished)...but...I would love to stabilize the acrylic as much as possible...if trimming the acrylic sheet another 1/8", and adding a 1.25" fillet to act as a wider rabbet will help...then that will be my next step. I will rip the fillets myself, from 3/8-1/2" stock.

My current framer (who does a very nice job on other pieces I bring him, albeit none this large) wants to simply, as others here have suggested, hinge it at the top, and forego the DCO/batting. Not sure on what I would use for the backing board for this, as the ACM is already utilized to close the back, and is attached to the strainer...would need a "sub backer"...perhaps coroplast, or foam board.

Here is a little cross section drawing (excuse the quick sketch and possible scale issues)...Bottom up...1/4" acrylic, art, batting, arm, 5/4 strainer...frame is modular with addition of side wall, and padding piece to increase depth of rabbet to 1/2" (3X compression of DCO batting).

-Mark


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