Framing a violin (or fiddle)

J Phipps TN

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Jul 14, 2004
Kingsport TN
I need your help. First of all, I can't find a frame deep enough, And I'm not sure how to do the extenders on the other frames.

Do any of you know of a really deep moulding. The deepest one I can find is the larson 573 IB. It will work, but my customer really wants a plain black frame.

Any suggestions? :(

Build your own extensions.
Call Foster Planning Mill or Xylo to see what they have in stock that can work and do the finishing work yourself or have someone finish it for you.

Sorry but I don't have the number here.

You can use Framerica Boxers in black, stacking as many extenders as necessary to achieve the depth you want.

Or you can have an acrylic box made to fit, and use any standard-depth moulding to support and trim it.

The larger question is: How will you mount the instrument without damaging it? Want suggestions & photos?
the nice folks at FP Woodworks have shadowbox mouldings from 3" to 23" deep. You can reach them at 800-795-6319.
You can stack any moulding that is basically flat then attach them and you face frame.

Did a violin last week and used three frames to get the depth and it looked GREAT!

Experiment, that is half the fun of this job.

Portland Bungalow #VC-625-Stradfin. :D
It's mounted wiith silicone, of course! Just kidding.

CAFramer - 23" shadowbox moulding? Am I just not thinking about this right? What on earth would that be used for -a car fender? I just haven't crossed into that realm of framing yet, I guess.

Jim, I held your violin display in my hand at a class, and I cannot remember clearly how it was mounted. Was that the one using wire, bent to a custom shape for mounting?
Yes, the class sample violin mounts are made of cold-formed spring steel "piano wire", covered with shrink tubing. 10 mm fluted polypropylene was used for the mount board.

I suggest covering the board with loose-fitting, rumpled fabric after the mounts are completed. That way each mount may have a "collar" of the fabric, folded under and glued near the top of the mount.
Forge formed fingers from Swedish watch steel (higher content of brass) then powder painted with Soft Grip enamal.

The back hinged so she can take it out to play without disturbing the rest of the stuff in the case.

The lumber to make the case was salvaged out of one of the local school houses during remodel.
Originally posted by Baer Charlton:
...The back hinged so she can take it out to play without disturbing the rest of the stuff in the case.
That would require taking the frame off the wall. Not good. Instead, I like to use a Gravity Groove design; the acrylic box slips off the front, while the frame stays securely attached to the wall.
It sits on her mantle, next to her grandmothers urn. Just the way she wanted it.

There are no hanging devices on the back. Just the two magnetic latches.