Framing a snake skin

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Sage Framer

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I'm framing a cobra skin for a client and putting it into a shdowbox lined with fabric. Does anyone have an idea of how to archivally mount this guy? He's about 6 feet long and 6 inches wide. I need to use something that son't be seen, of course. Thanks.
 
Snake skins are organic. Organic materials are notoriously acidic. Have you called a taxidermist to see if it should be treated in any way. He may have suggestions how to frame it.

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Timberwoman
AL
I cut the mat, I pet the cat.
 
Because it's animal-based, use unbuffered mount & mat boards in the frame.

I suggest sewing the snake skin to a pH-neutral, unbuffered mount board, using cotton thread. The needle holes will be permanent, but small enough that they shouldn't show.

You could also sew the snake skin to an inert fabric & stretch it over stretcher bars.

Above all, don't use any kind of adhesive on the skin. There is no easy way to mount something like this, but needle & thread is the best way, as far as I know.

After mounting, how about putting the skin in a UV-filtering acrylic box-frame?

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Jim Miller,holder of CPFcm designation; FACTS/GAFP Committee Member
 
Because it's animal-based, use unbuffered mount & mat boards in the frame.

I suggest sewing the snake skin to a pH-neutral, unbuffered mount board, using cotton thread. The needle holes will be permanent, but small enough that they shouldn't show.

You could also sew the snake skin to an inert fabric & stretch it over stretcher bars.

Above all, don't use any kind of adhesive on the skin. There is no easy way to mount something like this, but needle & thread is the best way, as far as I know.

After mounting, how about putting the skin in a UV-filtering acrylic box-frame?

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Jim Miller,holder of CPFcm designation; FACTS/GAFP Committee Member
 
I ran into the same situation a couple of weeks ago, however, the customer did not want the snakeskin damaged (no pinholes or adhesive). The skin was 68” long and fairly flat. The shadow box was fabric lined. After a long period of trial and elimination, I ended up using a monofilament thread to “strap” the skin down every 4 inches. The monofilament was virtually invisible over the skin and the customer was very pleased with the final result.
 
I'm trying to picture where this little gem may be hanging--and why. But then, there's that bias sneaking out again: mounting something you probably personally dispatched to the hereafter seems ghoulish to me. That said, it occurred to me that were it I, I might suggest a "table box" such as the kind you see footballs in. Pretty base, then pop a plexi boxtop down on it. Heck, you could even lift it to let admirers touch the thing you kil (opps, sorry.) However, this idea might be better applied to a shall we say "shorter" subject?

Come to think of it, you could still make a table box and place it on brackets on the wall. Just musing.
 
This is one of those projects where it is not possible to render advice with accuracy, simply because one cannot see the artifact.

Having said that, perhaps it will be of value to make some general comments & suggestions.

Is the hide tanned? If so, find out how it was tanned in respect of the chemicals used. Sometimes arsenic is used - with obvious need for caution.

Is the hide fresh? If so, wrap in plastic bag and freeze for three to four days - remove to warm up for 8 to 12 hours and re-freeeze for three or four more days - will kill bugs.

Keep RH well below 65% to discourage mould growth - 45-55% seems to be the ideal.

Handle only with gloves.

Since RH is low, buffered board should be ok, either zeolite type or rag.

Keep away from heat.

Keep high light levels and UV away.

Keep away from sources of high frequencies - some inconclusive studies suggest that continuous exposure may result in deterioration of the hardened skin.

Good luck.

Orton
 
ooopps,

i take that back
redface.gif
.

marc
 
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