Question Framing a large map/sound absorber

ookilter

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Hi all,

Newbie here. I have a 65" tall x 42" wide map I want to frame. The map will cover a 1" thick rockwool panel acting as a sound absorber. Our home has a large great room with coffered ceiling and hard surfaces all around, so the echoes are loud and long. I l already tested the paper for sound transmission and it will be fine for the frequencies I want to absorb.

I'll construct a sub-frame using 1"x1" pine, properly braced in the corners, to hold the rockwool panel. The rockwool will be glued to a masonite panel behind it (on the back side of the frame) to keep it erect. On top (or in front of) that subframe, I will build the actual picture frame. The map will be contact glued to the rockwool panel (I have to test that my spray-on adhesive will not discolor the map paper.) After trimming, the map will have 3/4" of white space around it. so final frame dimensions TBD. I will not be using any glass, because that would ruin the sound absorption quality of the rockwool.

Questions:
1. All the books say use a narrow frame for a large piece. What do you say?
2. Should I mat the piece?
3. Can't decide between natural wood finish or painted for the frame. After looking at the map (the first word "map" is a link to the item) what do you think?
4. I have a "Jorgenson" manual miter saw and should be able to get an accurate 45 degree angle using a builder's square. I do not have a trimmer. What do you think my chances are to get good corners like this?

Thanks in advance for your helpful replies,
b
 
4. I have a "Jorgenson" manual miter saw and should be able to get an accurate 45 degree angle using a builder's square. I do not have a trimmer. What do you think my chances are to get good corners like this?
I'm not a framer or designer so I can't really answer your other questions but this one is easy for me.

The answer is entirely up to what you mean by "good corners". I would have to say "No" according to my standards, but depending on your skill level and standards my answer would change to "Possibly but Unlikely".

My suggestion is to find a local frame shop that is willing to make an empty frame to your specs.
 
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Welcome to the G

I see that the map is laminated, so somewhat protected.
I would not use spray glue (bad for health, unpredictable results and not sure how the bond would be with laminated map. You might have to test different glues, but I would use a roll on approach versus spray.

What books say use a narrow frame for a large piece? It might work for you, as the frame is decorative only and does not need to support any weight. The look might or might not be fine.
If you mat the piece, what would you use? How would you keep it clean?
Natural wood or painted is a personal preference. Hard to comment on that as both could look good.

As for the corners you will get; I doubt it would pass in my shop and is why most of us invest in good equipment. I doubt you will get more than a somewhat passable corner with a manual saw like that. Depends on how picky you are.
 
It's very kind of you both to answer so helpfully. Thank you both.

I looked at the Lion and Rockler trimmers and both are in backlog until April at the earliest. Darn constipated supply chain!
 
That is a large size. I'm not familiar with the term "rockwool". How much would you say that weighs at that size? If you plan to use a narrow frame, make sure the weight of hanging this is borne by the inner materials, and not by the frame itself.
:cool: Rick
 
Take the adhesion to the "rockwool" out of the equation. Adhere the map to a fabric panel (possibly primed canvas) and stretch over a subframe lined with rockwool or Homosote, or some other acoustic deadening material.
Better yet, have the map printed to canvas, and simply stretch that over a sound-deadening filled subframe.
Avoid matting as per Ylva.
I know about miter frame saws, and miter backsaws, but I don't know that one. If it were a vintage Stanley with cast iron mounts and a sharp blade, I would say "go for it", otherwise, do as David suggested and get a frame shop to miter and join the empty frame.
Alternately you could invest in a miter sander, but how many of these are you planning on doing?
 
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