Framing a Cell over a background

blackiris

SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
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Sandwich, IL
A Gentleman came in today with an idea to frame a picture on clear thin plastic over a background. In my experience, I wouldn't consider it a "cell" but I would think it is pretty valuable.

He took the originals, so the pictures are just COPIES.

In the picture the body of the car is what is printed on the clear plastic. The " innards" of the car is in color.
He would like to be able to remove the "car body" picture to see the inside of the car.

Would you mount the "cell" to plexi maybe cut a groove in the frame to slip it in and out of? Or maybe have it printed on plexi is a better idea? Another sheet of plexi over the "innards"?
I have no idea. :help:

I think the whole subject matter just wanted me to ask for help! I'm a girly-girl--I know nothing about cars! :icon19:
 

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How about one of Jim Miller's "slip frames?" (I think he calls them gravity frames or some such?)

Anyway, Mount the background, probably with mat to a floater frame, then make a frame "just the right size" to fit over the front and outside of the floater frame, then mount the body picture to the frame that slips over.

The customer just slides the "top/front frame" off straight forward when he wants to see the "inside" and just slides it back on when he want the "skin on."

Was that clear as mud? Jim, you got a picture?
 
Yes -or some kind of hinge-frame contration in which the top frame can be lifted off the back frame... like lifting the hood on a car. Never done this- but the idea just flew into my head. Might take some real planning/materials...:popc:
 
Ahh, good idea, I've done hinged frames and that could work as well. Maybe use a piano hinge on the top and some earth magnets at the bottom to hold it clsoed. Customer just lifts the top frame on the hinge.

Put the higne on the side of he wants it to "stay open" without holding.
 
Or instead of hinging for a cleaner look route out keyholes ...one on each side. Then the top frame could just be lifted off exposing the under frame.

The example below is a very low cost shadow box that a local woodworker makes for me. He always used the piano hinges too until I got him to start keyholing the covers. The boxes are a little rough compared to what we framers might normally produce, but for $ 30.00 wholesale complete with plexi they are a good low budget alternative. All I do is mount the objects/jersey or whatever inside and put WallBuddies on the back. Jersey boxes run me $ 60.00 in a 32X40 size with a wood hanger. He does any custom size extremely reasonably.
 

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Dave, that is somewhat similar to my Slip-Over frame design, but more complicated.

Build two frames out of standard mouldings: The inner frame contains the mounted item(s) and attaches securely to the wall. The outer frame contains glazing and is sized to slip over the inner frame. Stubs of #18 brads, placed in the top rail of the inner frame, engage holes drilled in the top rail of the outer frame (or vice-versa). The outer frame simply lifts off the inner frame. No tools required. See the article, "Slip Over Frame Design", on page 48 of the November 2007 issue of Picture Framing Magazine.

If you use deep-rabbet mouldings, omit the brads/holes and call it a "Slider". See the article, "The Slider, An Easy-Opening Shadowbox Design", on page 72 of the November 2005 issue of Picture Framing Magazine.

Blackiris, you could build either of those designs for your project at hand. I suggest using acrylic instead of glass, because it is lighter and shatter-resistant. You could put acrylic in both the inner and outer frames if that is appropriate.
 
I wonder if you could mount them together and put a light behind. Then you would see the car at first, hit the switch and 'voila' the under-structure would show through. that would be a slick solution.

Depends on a few things, but worth an experiment.
 
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