Framespace vs Econospace

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Stephen Enggass

Stephen Enggass

CGF, Certified Grumble Framer
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Aug 12, 2019
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Maine
Pros? Cons? Econospace seems like it would be easier to use, but I’m looking for 1/2” space. Client wants to float a watercolor on some foamcore (3/16”?) That will be mounted to a (decorative) mat board. I want some space between glass and image so I was thinking 1/2” space. Or should I float watercolor on 1/8” foamcore and go with 3/8” spacer. Framespace largest size spacer is 3/8”... you follow? Looking for input. First time doing this type of frame job. Thanks.
 
How flat is the watercolor and how big is it?

Take into account that water color paper will continue to curl. Once water is introduced to paper, that is what happens.
Over matting helps with that. A smaller piece will be less trouble than a large piece.

I know some customers just need to have that floating look. It would float it so it is flush with the mat board, not float it on foam board. When those corners of the art start to curl, you will see that foam board. Cut the foam board too small and there isn’t enough support, only making that problem worse.

I would at least have that half inch space, but would build it out with foam board and float a mat on top of that to create the space.

Whatever you do: charge enough!
 
Ylva said:
build it out with foam board and a mat on top of that to create the space.
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Ditto

2020-05-26_073814.jpg
 
The only thing I can think to add just now is the solution isn't mat or foam board, it is mat and foam board. If you don't have some 1/8" thick foam board you should get some for these kinds of projects. Oh, and pinwheel the shims. Much easier than trying to cut them to an exact length. We secure them with ATG and dots of PVA glue.
 
And think of the ATG like a vise or a clamp. Its purpose is to hold the board until the glue drops set. ATG will fail if used alone; it is only a matter of time.
 
Stephen Enggass said:
Pros? Cons? Econospace seems like it would be easier to use..
Framespace largest size spacer is 3/8”...
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FrameSpace #FS-3 is 1/2" and there are a couple of variations in that depth. FS-5 is 3/4" deep.

I prefer FrameSpace over any pressure sensitive spacer, because it fastens to the edge of the glass, which eliminates the possibility of it coming loose (pressure sensitive adhesives tend to fail over time) and it pads the edge, reducing the chance of breakage from impact in handling.
 
I stopped using EconoSpace a couple of years ago for the very reason Jim Miller said, the adhesive fails overtime and you are doing unnecessary repairs. Frame Space attaches to the glass w/o adhesives so there is no way that they will fail.

For your job I recommend the spacer as Snafu and Ylva recommends. It looks a lot nicer than EconoSpace or Frame Space.
 
What's the most accurate way to cut evenly consistent width strips of foamcore for creating the spacers??
 
Stephen Enggass said:
What's the most accurate way to cut evenly consistent width strips of foamcore for creating the spacers??
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As Wally said, pinwheel. Example, size is 8x10 With spacer being 3/16 thick, cut spacers at 7 13/16 x 9 13/16. Butt against each other, the last one you have some play for a tight fit against the 1st one. If you happen to have a space in a corner you can shime it out with a toothpick.

Note, when making spacers, cut foam board slightly smaller than the mat, about 1/16 smaller, center foam board in center of the mat, giving 1/32 clearance top and bottom.
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Mount the mat on 1/8" Speedmount and cut strips on a wall cutter. Saves a step. The crushing and 1/8 thickness helps keep the spacer strips from showing under the rabbet.
 
You would still need to be accurate feeding foam core through cutter so as to get identical width strips. No? What am I missing here?
 
Some people cut strips of mat, strips of foam, and attach the two to each other. Others mount a single piece of matboard to foam core in a press, then cut the strips. Also, if you plan to go with Rabbetspace, it's good to seam the glass first.
 
Stephen Enggass said:
I don't quite follow but this sounds like what I'm looking for... sorry for being so dense. Could you post a pic when you get a moment? Thanks!
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Just cut a nice parallel strip about 4" wide, set the guide 4 1/2" from the straight cut blade, et voila! 1/2" cut. You are just extending the guide under the hold down. No pix - I'm retired.
 
You are not dense. When using a straight-line mat cutter, you have to advance the guide after each cut to a distance equal to the width you want. For 1/2 inch, place the foam board so that some amount extends past the guide. Trim that off, and you will have a straight edge. Then move the guide 1/2 inch toward the cutting head, cut, then repeat. If you are using scrap strips, you may have to start over more than once, but you are saving money.

By using the spacer strip that Pat suggests, you keep the cutting head level and can use more of the strip. It will help when you have the cutter in front of you.

There are a lot of ways to do this, and all of these suggestions will work. But I think if you are limited to the mat cutter, this would be easiest.
 
Stephen Enggass said:
You would still need to be accurate feeding foam core through cutter so as to get identical width strips. No? What am I missing here?
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On a wall mounted mat sizer use the left hand side measuring gauge. Cut off the right hand side of the stock to square it and bump the stock from left to right using the left side gauge to measure off the off cut.

A CNC mat cutter can be used to create fold up sides for a shadow box as well.
 
Stephen Enggass said:
What's the most accurate way to cut evenly consistent width strips of foamcore for creating the spacers??
Click to expand...
I use the wizard for the matboard and wall cutter for the foamcore.
I always cut the foamcore a little smaller than the mat, the FC doesn't have to be as accurate, and attach with atg and glue, atg will probably fail over time but the glue won't.
 
snafu said:
I use the wizard for the matboard and wall cutter for the foamcore.
I always cut the foamcore a little smaller than the mat, the FC doesn't have to be as accurate, and attach with atg and glue, atg will probably fail over time but the glue won't.
Click to expand...

With a stop (I use a 6" block to get down to 1/2"), its been my experience that my 3000 cuts the foam ever so slightly smaller than the mat. Mounting the mat to Speedmount makes the whole job so much easier and saves a step of applying ATG and glue dots on 1/2" strips.
 
Watch the video on youtube on FrameSpace. It doesn't get any easier, faster, or more permanent that this. FrameSpace 3 makes 1/2" airspace, comes in three sizes to fit, 2mm glass, 2.5mm (like all Tru-Vue glass) and 3mm (like most acrylic AKA 1/8") You can cut the shiny surface gloss with steel wool or photographic matte spray. FS comes in Clear, Black, and white (matches most white rag mats).
 
When making custom spacers, I always drymount a matboart to 1/8" foamboard. I always mount a few inches larger than I need.
I pick a mat color that either matches the matboard in the frame, background color of the artwork (if no matboard is being used, or the frame.
I will then use a straight edge and knife, measuring the same from the edge of the board to the straight edge each time.
I will always cut 25-50% more strips than I need, just in case something goes wrong, like getting glue on the wrong side of the spacer, or one strip is slightly different size from the rest.

Brian
 
Joe B said:
I stopped using EconoSpace a couple of years ago for the very reason Jim Miller said, the adhesive fails overtime and you are doing unnecessary repairs. Frame Space attaches to the glass w/o adhesives so there is no way that they will fail.

For your job I recommend the spacer as Snafu and Ylva recommends. It looks a lot nicer than EconoSpace or Frame Space.
Click to expand...

I have for several years stopped using EconoSpace. Why? What I use only costs be a total of no more than 50¢ per 6' stick. It is like EconoSpace, but the adhesive tape I use WILL NOT fail over time... the older it gets, the more of a PIA it is to remove!
 
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