Frame Support

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R

Red

Grumbler in Training
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Oct 3, 2006
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I am working on a panoramic and need a support in the center. I need ideas of what to use. I have a photographer who loves pans and expect more to frame.
 
Red: You may need to be a bit more specific to get better answers.
 
Is this a wood frame or metal? What are the sizes? How will it be hung?
Albin Products makes some interesting devices for reinforcing frames. I'm sure one of them would be useful.
:cool: Rick
 
Wood or metal I have the same solution for you. Cut a piece of strainer material that is the size of the interior measurement of the short side(make sure that you make it the exact size). If its a metal frame then put a metal hanger in the center of the frame on the long sides on the top and bottom. Then screw through the wire openings on the hangers into the strainer and voila, you have a braced frame. On a wood frame you cut the same piece of wood strainer. Then attatch it to the frame using mending plates. Or you can glue it to the frame and staple it. Or you can screw it in. Personaly I would build a strainer for the whole frame with a cross member and recess screw the whole thing in but that's me.
 
or... on a metal frame just add wire hangers along the top and bottom and run wire between them and snug up ( the wire should give off a sound when you "twang" it) so the long sides are level. This is enough to keep them from sagging. You don't need to cut strainers or anything like that for the wood. Again, just screw D rings into the top and bottom sides and run wire thru them.
More than enough to keep any frame from sagging. No sense in doing more than you need.
 
I agree with you on both counts, Mar. Just make sure you tune that wire to a resonant middle C!

;)

On a metal frame I tighten it up snug by putting the hangers in, tightening one side and sliding the other until it's good and snug. Be careful not to overtighten it or you can break the glass.

On a panoramic , if it's of any great length, you might consider two wire supports a third of the way from each edge.

I always caution the customer to carry with both hands even when center supported.

Dave Makielski
 
Pan Support

The frame is wood and 40 inches. The moulding is not as wide as I would like but it really goes well with this photo. I know if I use something wider I would be better off . I use very little metal mouldings I prefer wood. I do expect to do more long frames.
 
You should use a strainer frame inside.
 
For metal frames, I put in wire hangers top and bottom, then I cut a piece of aluminum strap to size. Drill a hole in the strap and use a #10 machine screw and nut with a little Loctite on it. It's strong and secure. One some metals, like Nielsen Elements, you can actually drill through the backside of the moulding and attach the strap without a wire hanger.

For wood mouldings, you can screw the strap right into the back of the moulding.
 
"I agree with you on both counts, Mar. Just make sure you tune that wire to a resonant middle C!"

Not me, Dave - I didn't say that - FRAMAH did!!! :icon21:
 
GOTCHA!!
 
Rather than adding a strainer frame, I would be inclined to use a solid backing board of 1/8" thick Sintra (PVC sheet) and screw it to the back of the moulding. I stock it in both black and white for that purpose, and it works. #4 flat-head Phillips screws counter-sink themselves into it very neatly.
 
We have many techniques for bracing the wide frames in our shop - I do a lot of large panoramas myself.

Here's one technique I like for wood frames - a small screw eye into the moulding from inside, parallel to the glass. one in the middle top rail and one in the middle bottom rail - then tie together with suitable hanging wire. This is under the dust cover and out of sight completely. You do need 1/4 inch of wood behind the mount board.

Another technique when there isn't room for the screw eyes is a strip of canvas from top to bottom stapled into the wood frame. Thin enough that it doesn't show much when the dust cover is put on over it.
 
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