Frame Sealing Tape, Part II

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Dave

Dave

SPFG, Supreme Picture Framing God
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OK, Joanie's post about the child's pastel framed by Michael's and their use of frame sealing tape brings up a couple of questions:

1.) How much do fellow Grumblers use frame sealing tape and on what types of work?

I use it on any original works where the artwork comes in contact with the rabbet of the frame or any other element used in the frame design that may not be archival ...such as fillets or fabric wrapped mats unless I use a two or three ply Strathmore rag paper barrier.

2.) The product I use is a 3/4" gray tape I buy from a distributor manufactured by Specialtytapes out of Racine, WI. Product #A0432-08 (?) ...may be a batch number.

Either I don't know the best technique for applying this tape to a rabbet or it is one pain in the arse to apply.

What products do you use? What techniques do you use to apply it? Is there any easier material or method for sealing the rabbet? I think a brush on type product would be easier to use but would prefer to use a water based product. I know acrylic gesso provides some protection. but is it good enough? Why don't manufacturers routinely seal the rabbets? Too costly?

Also, what do you charge and how....per lineal inch?


:shrug:
​
 
If one wants to isolate the wood of the frame from its contents, there is a simple method which is also quite safe. Strips of a sealing foil laminate, such as Marvelseal 306 (University Products) can be ironed onto the rabbet, which will seal the wood without any pressure-sensitive adhesive needed. That sort of sticky adhesive might move out from under its carrier, over time. The Marvelseal is also cheaper than tape.



Hugh
 
I use Lineco Foil tape on nearly all oils and paintings on stretcher/strainer bars.

I had difficulty at first applying the stupid stuff, but Baer’s suggestion made it a lot easier.
 
I use Linceo's framesealing tape in two ways, one to seal a wooden frame on a 100% archival job. On a frame that is being screw fit with a strainer, it keeps the debris contained. On any frame that has flakey rabit from the leafing or paint or is as old as dirt.

Occasionally if I'm fitting a deep frame, instead of backing with paper that can be easily punctured I'll seal it with Frame sealing tape.

The trick to using it an any surface other than a flat surface is to per fold the tape, then peel and apply. Start in the center and work out to the ends slowly. Be careful burnishing it down, but it is a must.
 
The tape I'm using doesn't come with a liner. I'll have to try the Lineco.

Thanks for all the input.
 
Yup. LineCo. Went through four roles of tape in the last three days.

Where ever the quilt might touch. (4.25" deep rabbet)

P41401212E.jpg


Completely wrapped the strainer, as well as the liner wedge before wrapping with neutral fabric.
P41201592E.jpg

EStretchedQuilt03.jpg


I'd really like to get my hands on some of the new "Gold" puncture proof tape, but our supplier is dragging their heels on getting it in.
 
We go through a whole lot of Lineco, but this thread got me to attempting to think. The lineco box explains that the acid will not travel through metal, why not use that aluminum duct tape. It is metal, has enormous grabbing power, and it is metal? It would be a whole lot cheaper than Lineco. Any thoughts?

But wait, there is more: Many years ago, as a sneaky Pete operator in the US military, we used a booby trap fuse that used acid to fire off the charge at a later date. It consisted of a small tube with a small vile of acid and a wire going through it. The vile of acid would be broken when you pulled the arming ring. After a few hours or even days, depending on the type, the acid would burn through the wire and set off the charge. It was acid, the wire was metal.....????

John
 
Pssst....Paul...Captain English is a "she".
 
Pat, I don't know if the captain English was in reference to my last post or not. I am assuming it is. Among my many academic achievements, one seems to stand out considerably above all the rest. I look at it as the pinnacle of all my years of rigid scholastic accomplishments and training. That one major achievement was the successful completion of the ninth grade. I never thought I would make it, but perseverance paid off and I did it. My parents and friends shook their heads in wonderment, it was truly a glorious day for all involved.

If it wasn't for spell check, I doubt if I could have shared this with you. :)

John
 
JRB said:
We go through a whole lot of Lineco, but this thread got me to attempting to think. The lineco box explains that the acid will not travel through metal, why not use that aluminum duct tape. It is metal, has enormous grabbing power, and it is metal? It would be a whole lot cheaper than Lineco. Any thoughts?
John
Click to expand...


Maybe the adhesive isn't acid free?

Why not paint the rabbet for really big jobs?
 
Pat I vaguely remember reading that someone here shellacked or painted the rabbet. But unfortunately after being here for 6+ years I have read a lot of threads, and digested a lot of "tips" that have been shot down! This idea may have been one of them. But that's me I'm afraid, a source of opinion and half thought out ideas!
 
I believe I remember correctly that either gesso or a polyurethane varnish would also serve as a suitable barrier. Maybe someone more informed could respond.

There are many instances I'd rather brush a coating on.


:shrug:
​
 
Camger water-borne polyurethane varnish is a suitable coating, with good longevity. However, its thickness would be variable and could be scratched.

Other materials such as paperboard, acrylic, and polyester film would also slow migration for some time, but the only permanent, gas-impermeable barriers practical for framing are glass and metal.

How much preservation do you want?
 
Wow, I can remember using hot, painted-on wax to seal rabbets!
.
.
.
I feel old.
 
Jim Miller said:
Camger water-borne polyurethane varnish is a suitable coating, with good longevity. However, its thickness would be variable and could be scratched.

Other materials such as paperboard, acrylic, and polyester film would also slow migration for some time, but the only permanent, gas-impermeable barriers practical for framing are glass and metal.

How much preservation do you want?
Click to expand...

Jim, your sig line cracks me up. Next thing, they'll be specifying the type size and font!
 
So, do you think metal duct tape would be acceptable or not? It does not have a paper backing, condensation could be a problem. We could further discuss my grammar, except she has been dead for years.

John
 
I've wondered about aluminum duct tape myself. If Al is a good barrier for wood acids etc, wouldn't it be a good barrier for it's own questionable adhesive? Good project for high school science class : )

Rebecca
 
Rebecca, I would be curious about how much adhesive from the back of the tape would stick to the front of the tape when it is unrolled. Or does it available with a backing?
 
franken thread alert:
Val, I could'nt help but notice that Spring has arrived in Nevada.
That poor bird looked so cold this past winter.
 
I have some aluminum duct tape made by United Tape Company (not United Mfrs.) that does have paper release tape. It has a very nice aggressive seal and tightly conforms to whatever you stick it to. I've never used it for rabbet sealing (I like the Lineco tape) but I imagine it would work great for that purpose. It would sure save a lot of time over the multi-row application I've seen pictured here recently for wider barrier needs.
:cool: Rick
 
Bob, the stuff I bought at the hardware store years ago, made by "who knows" has such an aggressive adhesive that it rolled with release paper.

Rebecca
 
My thinking is not rabits, but more for stretcher bars, things that would eat up the more expensive Lineco.

John
 
I use Lineco's tape on metal framing jobs to seal the edges on some framing jobs About 3/16 shows on the glass and is totally hidden by the rabbet. It keeps dust out of the artwork and helps to prevent the glass and metal from rubbing and making a mess inside.

I don't do this on drymounts, unless I can I pick a metal frame deep enough to accomodate a 1/8th 'blank' of foamcore on the back so that its not unattractive. (Most people don't care if they can see the frame sealing tape, even if its ugly silver...but it bugs me.)
 
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