frame package even with rabbet...

Rozmataz

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Jun 13, 2002
Posts
2,773
From
Fingerlakes Region of NYS
I know I had a post recently about frame packages where they were higher than the rabbet - and someone suggested rabbet space. Good suggestion.

But what about the packages where it is just even with the moulding? What do you do then? This has happened to me more and more lately - not a bad thing since I am obviously putting more Layers$ in the moulding... and these are not the slim 1/4" variety!!

On occasion I have put flex points in before I insert the package - but there must be a better/easier way!!

Thanks,

Roz
 

FramingFool

Inactive Account
Joined
Sep 5, 1998
Posts
528
From
New Cumberland, PA
Well, maybe not the best solution, but flex points, shot at a slight downward angle (lots of 'em) can be bent flush with the innards ....

Has always been Ok, unless they like to drop-kick the art before it's hung....
 

stshof

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Sep 16, 2002
Posts
1,194
From
Ohatchee, AL
I don't know where I learned this but I measure the whole length & width including frame, subtract 1/2" from each size, cut a piece of matboard to this size beveling the edges. Then I apply double tape to the edge to hold it after I center it on the frame. Next I use the little sawtooth nails to nail it to the frame, one about every 3" or so. This looks really finished but I still paper it to cover the nails.
kaffeetrinker_2.gif
 

Steven6095

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Feb 14, 2004
Posts
1,352
From
Nicholasville, KY
I just had to completely improvise on one like this.
Took linen tape and tightly taped it - foam core to rabbet.
Then I took a piece of f/c and cut it slightly larger than the opening on the back of the frame. Took a piece of scrap mat board and cut the same size. I then used the smallest offset screw clips(like the ones used for canvases. It looked fine and the customer did not even question. Good pressure on the glass too.

The mat board was simply to give a more finished look.

Also have used Sue's method.
 

Greg Fremstad

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Joined
Sep 4, 2002
Posts
1,019
From
Eugene OR
I have a wonderful solution to this problem.

Add a 1/8 inch thick piece of black foam board and then use the 1/8 inch deep RabbetSpace to hold it all in and finish off the back nicely.

I recommend "tape Sealing" the glass-art and backing package when using RabbetSpace so you don't have to use a dust cover.

The problem with attaching mat board to the back of the frame is HUMIDITY. As the board expands or contracts with changes in humidity it will buckle and will end up looking very unprofessional.

Any pressure on the back of a frame packge will also result in the backing boards bowing with changes in humidity. That's why all point drivers, when laid flat on the backing with no down pressure, will always leave the package slightly loose.

It's supposed to be loose! Rattling beats buckling.
 

Jay H

PFG, Picture Framing God
Joined
Dec 8, 2003
Posts
9,908
From
KY
Very simple.

Take your gun and put both hands on the top of it. Then from your shoulders press really really hard. The gun will go in upto 1/8". Thats more than plenty for the point to clear.

What? I guess yall are going to try and pretend that you haven't done this? Ok fine but I know the truth.

Carry on.
 

brian..k

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Aug 30, 2005
Posts
750
From
Fremont, California
If you have an air compressor you can use a senco staple gun to shoot the package into the frame. Worked at a shop that did all it's fitting with staple guns rather than points. Obviously you can't use this method on pieces where the art can get damaged by the staples (shot into the frame at a 45% or so angle through the edge of your backing).
 

Steph

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Joined
Mar 27, 2005
Posts
2,880
From
NY
Depending on what I'm working with ie. moulding, artwork etc, I 've used flex points or a little extra muscle as Jay suggested. If I'm worried about bowing the frame package and the effects of 'pressing down' to hard over time, I'll do it differently. I put my point gun tip about an 1/8 in from frame opening holding it perpendicular to frame and shoot the tip into back of moulding, then bend over rest gently with a tack hammer, then tape bent over points to finish it off before papering.
Got to go its almost time for a cocktail.

Steph
 

K-Cat

Grumbler
Joined
Dec 8, 2004
Posts
47
From
Rogers, AR
Glad this topic came up. I was hit with some problems today and maybe someone can give me a little advice.
I have a photographer client who will be installing the photos himself and what Greg at FrameTek is suggesting is close to what I came up with but I need a little help for the rest.
I have a 1" rabbet to work with and since I can't drop everything in finished and close it up I was thinking of using a polyurethane liquid sealant; RabbetSeal or Lineco rabbet sealing tape. I've used neither - suggestions? Troubles with both or either? I'm afraid that the tape would not stay put when he is placing things in and thus making me look like I've used unprofessional products. Does the tape stick well to raw wood? It's a simple black wood frame with nothing done to the rabbet.
Also is this over-kill: using flexi points to keep the mats and artwork in (I only need 7/8" on the 1" rabbet) then fill for the rest finishing off with the black foamboard and 1/8" rabbet space. Or is there a flat solution like rabbet space without the "space" since I don't need the extra space? Also I was planning on using wall buddies since his work needs to hang straight to the wall - won't the rabbet space interfere with this? All these questions I know!! Thanks for any help in advance!
 
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