Question Frame Closure

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Please try not to use the word 'closure' here. :)
 
The means used to finish the back of a frame may have little to do with its performance over years in a "humid costal climate". Humidity can enter the frame,
around its edges and through its glazing, if it is glazed with acrylic sheet. Sealing a frame to resist climate extremes, over long periods, requires glass and vapor-barrier metal polymer foil enclosure, but many techniques and materials may be successfully used to finish the backs of frames.



Hugh
 
Paul Cascio said:
Please try not to use the word 'closure' here.
Click to expand...

So, Paul, your last therapy session didn’t go so well, I take it? :D

There are a lot of Grumblers who live and work in a more tropical climate than me, but I don’t believe the majority of them do anything special to try to seal a frame.

Not only would it be a major pain, but you’d probably have to seal the frame as Hugh suggests under extremely low relative humidity (less than 15%, I’m guessing). Otherwise, when the ambient temperature drops, you would probably get condensation on the interior of the glass, thus lousing up all your efforts.

I believe that allowing the microclimate of the picture frame package to reach an equilibrium with the outside environment is probably a good thing in the long run.
 
I ue 810 tape to seal the edges of the stack--the glass, mats, art and immediate backing board,then you can add filler such as polyflute or foam core.
dustcover as usual. It's called the sandwich fit in several books.

This has worked for me and I frame a lot of stuff for Florida. Singer island condos 500 feet from the ocean.

Vivian
 
In an enclosure, comprising a window and back mat and a work on paper, that has been conditioned to 50% R.H. at 70 degrees, there are only a few drops of water and changes in temperature will not be able to cause condensation, in that package. Condensation accumulates on cool glass when sunlight passes through it and warms damp paper behind the glass, driving moisture out of the board. Mold will grow, when the R.H. is over 60% and that can easily occur in the summer months in houses in many costal regions. A modestly sealed frame can get slightly drier in the winter heating season and slightly damper in the summer, while it resiste extremes in the building. A completely sealed frame will resist change, as long is its seal holds.


Hugh
 
Also, not an actual part of the frame sealing, but be sure to use bumpons or something similar to allow for free air flow behind the frame so that mildew is inhibited on the dustcover.
 
Dust Cover

Thanks for the help.
I put a specific glue (called ME Glue here in SA) on the back of my synthetic frames and then I close it with brown paper. On wooden frames, I use wood glue and then put brown paper. So the brown paper is what you see when you turn the frame around. Some coastal framers say they have problems - that all methods they have tried - end up coming loose. Like tape that looses its tack I suppose.

I am in SAfrica, and our product availability is not as varied as in the States. So I was hoping you could tell me what is a good product that would stand the test of coastal environments.
Any advice is welcomed.
 
Pressure-sensitive tapes will not stick to wood, over time. A PVA (white) glue is the best way to keep the paper stuck to the wood, in the long run.


Hugh
 
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