Floating art between glass

JRV

Grumbler
Joined
May 28, 2004
Posts
31
Loc
Grand Rapids, MI
I am doing a large job where the customer wants the art floated between glass. I have never done this before and have a couple of ideas about how I will, but I am looking for other ideas. This is not a conservation job so I'm not worried about that. The way I am leaning is to drymount the art to 3/16 fc and cut a reverse bevel around the image to give a lifted look. I will then drop the 1st piece of glass into the frame and use black foam core as a spacer. Then I am thinking about glueing the art to a piece of plexi that is a little smaller then the OD of the frame and screwing the plexi to the back side of the frame. This way there will not be any framers point visable. Any ideas? I could also sandwich the art between the glass but that sounds kid of boring.

Jeff
 
I believe about 30% of new Grumble threads start out with "Does anybody have LaMarche # . . . .?"

Another 20% start out with
the customer wants the art floated between glass
If you have to do this, the plexi idea sounds reasonable. It will cut the weight, reduce the chances of catastrophic breakage and make it easier to open that puppy up to perform repairs.

I wouldn't have thought of that myself. In fact, I've manage to get through 32,000+ orders without anyone asking to float the art between two pieces of glass.

I'm a lucky guy, I guess.
 
Acrylic sheet expands and contracts A LOT with temperature changes. If you must screw it to the back of the frame -use pan head rather than flat head screws, make the clearance holes quite large, and leave the screws a little on the loose side. On the FACTS webpages (under standards - determining frame allowance) there is a chart showing the expansion rates of glass, alumimun, and acrylic. Good information to keep on hand. Also, you may consider counter mounting the print with a paper about the same weight to keep the foam board from bowing with changes in humidity. Been there!
 
Hi Greg -

Can you post a direct link to that chart? I would love to print it out, and looked, but couldn't find it.

Thanks so much.

Rebecca
 
The standards Greg is referring to say, "For examples, see the graph below." There is no graph below, either on the web page or on the downloadable PDF file.
 
Thanks Mike, I did find that part and clicked on the link, but like Ron, couldn't find any actual numbers or graph. Maybe that is to come in the future.

Rebecca
 
I'm not certain, but I think I'm on a very small committee that's supposed to be updating the FACTS website.

That would help explain the problem.

I'm also on an equally small committee that's developing a website for the Wisconsin PPFA chapter. Would you like to know how that's coming along?

For that matter, would you like to see MY website? (Hint: It has a picture of my store that was demolished 4-1/2 years ago.)

And to think I have the audacity to Grumble about the Bainbridge website.
 
Well that's a big Whoops! I have a hard copy of that chart that I can FAX ('cause I can't scan) to anyone who wants one. Just call me with your FAX number 1-800-227-9934 8 - 4:30 ish Pacific We're working on updating the FACTS web pages but it takes volunteers with time and expertise. Hard to find these folks.
 
and then there is the old double AR or Museum trick.

It'll blow your their/mind.
 
I'm reading through these older responses for sandwiching art between glass so the wall can be seen around the art and the idea of the plexi screwed into the back of the frame solved one of my dilemmas; not wanting to show the points needed to hold the back glass on.

Not only that, but the weight will be reduced and it would be safer too, as also mentioned. One question is how to mount the art. It is a watercolor, 25x17, on a very heavy paper a designer brought in that her client did. Any suggestions on that?

I'm thinking I could try and attatch some AF watercolor paper (screws threw the paper into the plexi?) to the back of the plexi a little smaller than the art and hinge tape it to that.

Maybe drill some holes into that back plexi while I''m at it so air could get in and out?!?

Thanks in advance,
MS
 
You can attach the WC to the back piece of acrylic easily by hinging the WC over a piece of 2 ply or 4 ply and then bonding the mat board to the back acrylic with dollops of acrylic adhesive/sealant found at Home Depot for outdoor bonding and sealing. This stuff outgass only water as it cures (unlike silicone) and remains flexeble - even outdoors for 50 years (so they say)

FrameTek just happens to make an extrusion called FrameSpace 1/4 Double
that hold 2 pieces of SSB glass or 3/32 thick acrylic 1/4 inch apart. The 1/4 inch provides adequate airspace to help prevent buckling, mold growth, and adhesion to the glass.

The FrameSpace-glass-art assembly can be bonded to the rabbet of the frame with clear acrylic adhesive-sealant as described above and will provide ample strength for this project. It all can be removed from the frame later with a razor between the front glass and the rabbet. No big deal.

Check out he FrameTek web pages - look for FrameSpace 1/4 double
 
Shameless Plug Alert:

FrameSpace works great, and the you-name-it-we-got-it selection of configurations suits just about any sort of frame spacing job you can think of.
 
I usually use the Framespace without adhesive that is formed to go around the glass, but I recently bought the Framespace with the adhesive already on it, is that what you are talking about? Does it hold ok? I was already planning on that part.

Edit. Oh, I see. They have something that is made to space two pieces of glass. Cool, I'll have to see if my local supplier carries it.
Thanks guys/gals.
 
and then there is the old double AR or Museum trick.

It'll blow your their/mind.

I just did that with some old currency for a customer, 2-sided frame, wanted to see both sides....museum glass....look Ma! No glass! Bonk!

It did!
 
...acrylic adhesive/sealant found at Home Depot for outdoor bonding and sealing. This stuff outgass only water as it cures (unlike silicone)...
Greg, any suggestions on brand name and/or product number for this adhesive? There's such a dizzying array of sealants and adhesives out there.
Thanks. :cool: Rick
 
Answering Photog Michael and Rick Granick:

The adhesive style spacer made by FrameTek is called "EconoSpace" - it is not permanent compared to FrameSpace because it relies on adhesive. FrameSpace is mechanically permanent and is much easier to use if you can read and follow directions and if your glass cutter cuts square.

I'm sorry Rick, I couldn't give you a brand name but it is probably not too critical if it is an acrylic based adhesive/sealant and not a silicone type.
 
Thanks Greg. I was going to order your product and then realized the rabbit is not deep enough to hold it in. I'll now have to glue the glass into the rabbit and then cut the acrylic bigger than the frame and screw it in as suggested earlier for the backing.

Any suggestions on an adhesive for the glass? This job is becoming a pain in the you know what- guess I'll just have to be happy 'accepting the challenge' huh?
 
How about RabbetSpace? Yet another shameless commercial plug. If the frame is wide enough, it could be attached backwards.
 
2-sided framing

Hello! I am new to the framing world and also to the grumble....I would be glad to get some help on this project, if anyone is inclined to assist. My customer has 3 double sided water colors that she wants framed sandwiched between 2 pieces of plexi with moulding on both sides, so each side look identical to the other. Any way of doing this truly archivally? Or should I suggest something else? Also, any ideas on hanging so you don't see the hardware when you flip the piece? I am considering a hinge on the top so you can take it apart easily. Am I way off in my thinking??
 
Shameless Plug Alert:

FrameSpace works great, and the you-name-it-we-got-it selection of configurations suits just about any sort of frame spacing job you can think of.

We recently made up small 5 x 7 samples of framed 3 x 5 small cards with each of the Frame Tek spacers. We have about 7 or 8 little frames, each labeled, which we have attached to the moulding board with Velcro. We just pull the sample off the wall to show the customer the various options. We can also show them Greg' specifier. Great products.
 
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