Float Frame Cradle/Spacer

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Chip

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Chip Jones Studio
I create art on 1/4" wood panels (or photoprints on 3/16" gatorfoam) and want to display/mount these panels in a floater frame (1.5" deep or so). I'd like to have the surface of the art at about 1/8" lower than the face of the floater frame.

I've seen this done with something called a "cradle" (spacer) frame which is then glued to the floater frame. I've also seen this done with four wood blocks glued to the back of the art panel (or gatorboard). Your suggestions would be much appreciated. Also, if you know an inexpensive source for cradles, that info would be much appreciated. Thank you.
 
Do you have a table saw?
 
JFeig said:
What is your time worth vs buying a premade item?
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I'm not so much looking at that. I'm just trying to figure out the best way to do this. If it's the panel solution you mentioned earlier, then I'm good with that, I'm just looking for input as to how to best do this.
 
I have done this using flat unfinished wood stock which can easily be cut by hand with a simple handsaw (with a cutting guide for accuracy).

I've also cut strips of foamboard to act as the spacers between the foster frame and mounted art.
 
If you're just looking to have the artwork spaced back from the face of the frame, the easiest way is to glue a small strip of wood onto the inside of the frame beneath the rabbet. I don't see the need for a separate subframe. You can get basswood in a variety of sizes at a hobby shop. You will probably want 3/16 x whatever. Just paint, stain, or dye the wood to match the color of the frame or background.
 
Bruce Papier said:
If you're just looking to have the artwork spaced back from the face of the frame, the easiest way is to glue a small strip of wood onto the inside of the frame beneath the rabbet. I don't see the need for a separate subframe. You can get basswood in a variety of sizes at a hobby shop. You will probably want 3/16 x whatever. Just paint, stain, or dye the wood to match the color of the frame or background.
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Bruce you seemed to miss the Subject: Float Frame... so no Rabbett.

I'll make a strainer, smaller than the art size, but bigger than the opening in the Floater, out of unfinished wood.
If you want the art to sit 1/8" back from a 1.5" deep Floater, with a 1/4" panel, you'll need a strainer that is 1 1/8" tall.
You may be able to find pre-existing strainer stock that size, or you may need to make that yourself/have it made.
A table saw/circular saw/band saw are your easiest options for this. A Planer could also be used.
You could hire someone to do it for you, or just buy a cheap tablesaw for about $150, or a circular saw for about $60 (you'll also want an edge guide of some sort).
 
alacrity8 said:
Bruce you seemed to miss the Subject: Float Frame... so no Rabbett.

I'll make a strainer, smaller than the art size, but bigger than the opening in the Floater, out of unfinished wood.
If you want the art to sit 1/8" back from a 1.5" deep Floater, with a 1/4" panel, you'll need a strainer that is 1 1/8" tall.
You may be able to find pre-existing strainer stock that size, or you may need to make that yourself/have it made.
A table saw/circular saw/band saw are your easiest options for this. A Planer could also be used.
You could hire someone to do it for you, or just buy a cheap tablesaw for about $150, or a circular saw for about $60 (you'll also want an edge guide of some sort).
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That helps, another website called this a "cradle", but it sound like "strainer" is the more accepted term in the framing world (unless of course they are for different uses). I'll check all of this great info out... if I can do it inexpensively it will help those profit margins ;-). Thank you all!
 
Chip said:
That helps, another website called this a "cradle", but it sound like "strainer" is the more accepted term in the framing world (unless of course they are for different uses). I'll check all of this great info out... if I can do it inexpensively it will help those profit margins ;-). Thank you all!
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You might want to peruse the lumber dept. at Lowes, Menard's etc. They might have a readymade moulding that already has the proper dimensions, such as parting bead or doorstop or baseboard moulding. These types of mouldings come either raw or primed.
:cool: Rick
 
Do you have the capacity to cut and join a wooden subframe? If so, getting some stock 1" X 2" radiata pine from the home shelter store and having a cabinet maker mill it to the desired size (1.5" rabbet-.125" recess-.25" panel thickness=1.125" support height).

Strainer is the more correct term from the framing side. A cradle is a more passive support used for paintings on solid wood panels that aren't physically attached. They capture the edge of the panels and hold them in place and allow them to contract and expand with changes in the environment. A lot of old master paintings were done on panels like that, and cradles are used behind the frames to provide the actual support.
 
I’ve got a cheap table saw to rip 1x8 pine to size, and it takes no time at all to chop and join that float frame that gets glued to the back of the art panel. I paint the edge black, and attach it to the floater with offsets.

Instead of recessing it by 1/8th inch, mine are flush.
 
wpfay said:
Do you have the capacity to cut and join a wooden subframe? If so, getting some stock 1" X 2" radiata pine from the home shelter store and having a cabinet maker mill it to the desired size (1.5" rabbet-.125" recess-.25" panel thickness=1.125" support height).

Strainer is the more correct term from the framing side. A cradle is a more passive support used for paintings on solid wood panels that aren't physically attached. They capture the edge of the panels and hold them in place and allow them to contract and expand with changes in the environment. A lot of old master paintings were done on panels like that, and cradles are used behind the frames to provide the actual support.
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Nope, as mentioned earlier, I don't have any woodworking tools OR the space to set this up at home. The best approach I've seen so far online is this one. It does mention the term "cradle", but these are museum quality frames and a bit too expensive for me.
 

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This is not the optimum way to do this, but if you need a 3/4" deep spacer, your local builders' supply should have 1 x 2 clear pine or poplar of something. The actual dimension will be 3/4 x 1 1/2. You can just cut the rails to size with flat cuts and glue it to the back of the panel with butt joints. This will give you a heavier spacer than you really need, but it will be simple to do. The wood will likely be shrink wrapped on a rack rather than in with the construction lumber.
 
I don't have any fancy woodworking saws besides my chopper, so I'm very limited to the width of wood I can find at Lowes when it comes to making spacers. Therefore, I, like @Nikodeumus often use foamcore behind panels or canvases to key in the exact depth I want in a float frame. So long as the panel doesn't need something as solid as wood to adhere to in order to compensate for bowing, the cheapest and easiest route would be to just pinwheel and glue together strips of foamcore to make a platform inside the floater. I still use a solid sheet in the back to prevent dust and look nicer, but otherwise just 3-6" wide strips ATG AND glued together, overlapping seams as I go. You can then either glue or velcro the panel down on top of the strips depending on your desired level of permanence. If you do make a wooden cradle to attach the panel to, you can still use foamcore or even offset clips behind it to help key in the exact depth you want it to sit in the floater.
 
Chip said:
Nope, as mentioned earlier, I don't have any woodworking tools OR the space to set this up at home. The best approach I've seen so far online is this one. It does mention the term "cradle", but these are museum quality frames and a bit too expensive for me.
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If that is the float profile you are using you actually only need 3/4". As Bruce said, 1x2 from the lumber yard will work fine, if a bit overkill (but, as my son likes to say "there's no kill like overkill"). Ideally you'd get 1x2s and have someone rip them in half for you and you'd end up with 3/4 x 11/16 or so strips. Then cut to length with a handsaw (the "corners" don't need to be anything fancy as you won't see them).

One last option is that you could buy our 964-200 basswood strainer stock and have us rip it in half for you. You'd end up with strips that are 3/4 x 15/16. Probably more expensive than 1x2 from the lumberyard, but it would be nicer material :)
 
David Waldmann said:
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One last option is that you could buy our 964-200 basswood strainer stock and have us rip it in half for you. You'd end up with strips that are 3/4 x 15/16. Probably more expensive than 1x2 from the lumberyard, but it would be nicer material :)
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I haven’t landed on the best strainer solution since I use too many different surfaces (canvas that ranges from 5/16” to 3/4” tall to panels that are 1/8”, 1/4” or 1/2”. Your company’s strainer stock made to order sounds like a nice solution. But what is the timeframe for getting these - roughly? Do I need to plan in days, weeks, months to the process? I live in Dover NH 03820 for example. It would be great to get a sense of when I need to start the process to make sure frames are ready for an exhibit. I understand anything you come up with would be a ballpark figure.
 
However you make the cradles/strainers/lifts, they would have to be very securely and permanently glued to the back of your panels to prevent them from eventually falling to the floor. For paintings on panels, I always recommend using a standard frame with a lip rather than a float frame (despite how fashionable float frames are right now).

Photos on foam board in a floater frame won't have a long life. If you wish to display photos without any glazing, I'd talk to a specialist in a photo or sign making shop. Photos can be printed using materials that have a more durable surface and mounted to a stronger substrate like Dibond.
 
Agreed about panels in floaters. I used to make my own floaters just the right depth and used silicon adhesive to attach the panel to the frame. It’s fine for 1/4” panels that are 5 x 7”. However, I used silicon on a larger panel and it fell out like you said. It was right before an exhibit so I ended up using super glue to adhere blocks onto the panel which were then screwed to the frame - not ideal. Some paintings that are more classical I prefer in a tradition lip frame. However, the little ones look nice in a floater provided the gap isn’t too wide between the panel and the frame. I think it depends on the context and aesthetic. More and more, I'm adjusting my painting to the ease or difficulty of framing. Using standard sizes, opting for standard frame with lip more often than not. Framing is such an important part of the finished result.
 
Cleo said:
I haven’t landed on the best strainer solution since I use too many different surfaces (canvas that ranges from 5/16” to 3/4” tall to panels that are 1/8”, 1/4” or 1/2”. Your company’s strainer stock made to order sounds like a nice solution. But what is the timeframe for getting these - roughly?
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One thing to consider is not to get "the horse before the cart". You should construct the canvas premounted onto the "strainer" before you start painting on the canvas.

Note a mechanical attachment to a Floater Frame is the recommended method vs an adhesive such a silicone to allow to removal and reattachment without bother.
 
JFeig said:
One thing to consider is not to get "the horse before the cart". You should construct the canvas premounted onto the "strainer" before you start painting on the canvas.
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Interesting. If you could remove the strainer while painting that would help with setting it on the easel. I like the idea of a frame being ready as soon as the painting is dry. Another assumption is that the frame will work with the finished painting - sometimes that’s not entirely knowable at the start. However, if you’re doing a series that should look similar, that is a great idea.
 
Cleo said:
I haven’t landed on the best strainer solution since I use too many different surfaces (canvas that ranges from 5/16” to 3/4” tall to panels that are 1/8”, 1/4” or 1/2”. Your company’s strainer stock made to order sounds like a nice solution. But what is the timeframe for getting these - roughly? Do I need to plan in days, weeks, months to the process? I live in Dover NH 03820 for example. It would be great to get a sense of when I need to start the process to make sure frames are ready for an exhibit. I understand anything you come up with would be a ballpark figure.
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We generally have ample stock on hand and ship in 1-2 days, maybe 1 extra if we need to do any modification to it. Dover is generally 1 day via UPS so you would most likely receive an order within 1 week of placing it.
 
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