Fletcher & the Framers stance !

Framer Ken

Grumbler
Joined
Jun 26, 2002
Posts
17
Loc
Southampton. England
Some weeks ago I posted a request for information regarding a wavy line on matboards on my Fletcher cutter. Several responses encouraged me to check my stance ( done ) fit thicker 0.015" blades ( done )and I am still getting a wavy line, mostly on smaller apertures. Last night I was cutting another mat and I eased the pressure on my left arm ( on the clamp bar ) and this seems to have helped. This is also mentioned by "Katie" in her response to "Framers stance."
How little pressure can you apply to the clamp bar without the risk of the mat slipping ?
Regards from the UK
Ken
 
Use up some scraps and pracitice more. Figure out which works best for you. I do not put any pressure on the bar when cutting suede mats on my cutter, not a fletcher. Strength may be a disavantage in this case.
 
Hi Ken,
I use a C&H mat cutter. I use the slightest pressure on the bar. I really just sort of rest my hand on it. The weight of the bar is enough that the mat will not slip. If you put too much pressure on it, it will affect the cut. What I also do is, with my right hand (on the cutting head), press my thumb against the head before plunging the blade into the mat, and keep the pressure all through the cut and at the point of release. This will offset any slight play that there may be in the cutter head and avoid any possible hooking, especially in 8-ply mats. I have also stopped (long ago) using double edge blades, and now use 1200SE blades exclusively with great success.

-The Other Mike.
 
You don't need very much pressure on the bar at all but you do need to keep the pressure even during your cut. I'm like "the other Mike" and just rest my left hand on the bar and use it to steady myself. I also switched to the 1200SE blades years ago when I was having a little problem with a hook at the beginning of the cut. Cured the problem. I rarely if ever use the 1500 blades. But hey...whatever works for you....
 
Framer Ken,

Sorry to hear that you're still getting inconsistent cuts on your Fletcher F-2100. Part of the problem of doing diagnostic work via E-mail is that the language/terminology sometimes gets in the way. To help clarify and hopefully solve your problem....

"A wavy line (cut)" = A cut that fluctuates from a straight and parrallel cut to the clamp. This is typically caused by incorrect stance at the end of the cutter, play - loseness in the pivot assembly, or play in the cutting head itself.

"Hook - Hooking" = This curving at the beginning of the entry is similar to the above but unique and a present qualtiy of ALL mat cutters. The control element can obviously minimize this natural tendency of the blade to move away from the clamp after it first enters the board (ie start of cut). Minimized or eliminated by: Correct blade depth; Proper stance; New/sharp blade; Pivot assembly adjustment and Cutting Head adjustment.

Clamp Pressure = This was discussed fairly extensively in your previous post/question, Fletcher Mat Cutter. Light pressure near the end of the clamp (closest to the operator) is desired. If the person using the machine has exerted too much pressure on the clamp, over time, a reverse bow in the clamp could develop. Sight down the clamp to verify that indeed you have a slight downward bow to the clamp.

Blade Choice = It's important to remember that blades are made by blade manufacturers to offer variety to the end users (preferences) and that indeed they will behave differently. As Frank shared above, he rarely uses a .015 thickness blade. I would concur, that most framers lean towards an .012 standard (Honed both sides) blade for most mat cutting. It is thinner = less resistance.

SE Blades = Honed primarily on one side only, these blades were designed to compensate for the "hooking" problem described above. It is important to recognize that although they may help with this problem, they also may produce more of a tell tale exit mark at the end of the cut (the small cut line on the bevel). Also if installed backwards, (you should know) you'll produce horrible wandering cuts as well! Fletcher offers their SE blade in a .015 thickness.

Ken -- When you made your switch to .015 blades, were they standard or SE? You mentioned checking you head adjustment (firm), but how about the pivot assembly? Please review this information carefully, and write back to me directly if I can be of further assistance.

If all else fails, I will be glad to meet with you at the Spring Fair in Birmingham, 2-6 February, 2003. Look forward to seeing you there, regardless!

Regards,

John
 
Thanks John for a very informative and helpful reply. I will persevere with the modifications to stance, blades etc and see if the problem re-occurs. My present blades are Fletcher 0.015" double edged.
I have a run of single and double mats to cut over the next two days so hopefully I will know more then.
Many thanks to everyone for their help, especially John Raines II and grateful thanks to the Grumble. What a great facility !!!
Ken Golding. Southampton. England.
 
Thanks John for a very informative and helpful reply. I will persevere with the modifications to stance, blades etc and see if the problem re-occurs. My present blades are Fletcher 0.015" double edged.
I have a run of single and double mats to cut over the next two days so hopefully I will know more then.
Many thanks to everyone for their help, especially John Ranes II and grateful thanks to the Grumble. What a great facility !!!
Ken Golding. Southampton. England.
 
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