Fletcher/Keencut - Titan Vs. Sabre 2 and 3100 vs. SteelTrack

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shewhorn

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I was just wondering if anyone has had any experience with these particular models? My primary application for now is cutting prints mounted to 3/16" foam core. Eventually I will want something that can cut stiffer materials (hence the interest in the 3100 and the Steeltrack) but for the time being the Titan or the Sabre 2 looks like they'll fit the bill AND, they kind of kill two birds with one stone (they function as both a trimmer and a cutter).

Cheers, Joe
 
If you are mounting to a board and then wanting to cut along the edge of the print look a the Fletcher FSC (substrate cutter) It has a laser light along the cutting edge which would make lining up the cutting edge a lot easier. Plus it'll cut material up to a 1/2" thick.

At least that is what I understand from a different thread on the Grumble.
 
The Bainbridge cutter makes it very easy to line up your edge and has been around forever. It's quality equipment that will last a lifetime.
 
I have a Fletcher 3000 but still use a utility knife and a straight edge to trim out drymounted work.

The problem with using a wall cutter is that first off your print has to be square to the board you are mounting on.
 
FrameMakers said:
I have a Fletcher 3000 but still use a utility knife and a straight edge to trim out drymounted work.

The problem with using a wall cutter is that first off your print has to be square to the board you are mounting on.
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I have the Fletcher and use the knife and rule to trim but with the Bainbridge the clamp allows for the piece to not be square since it will clamp the board askew.
 
Jeff Rodier said:
The Bainbridge cutter makes it very easy to line up your edge and has been around forever. It's quality equipment that will last a lifetime.
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Jeff, what is a bainbridge cutter? I have never heard of or seen this.
 
Thank you to everyone for your responses. It is greatly appreciated! :)

FrameMakers said:
I have a Fletcher 3000 but still use a utility knife and a straight edge to trim out drymounted work.

The problem with using a wall cutter is that first off your print has to be square to the board you are mounting on.
Click to expand...

That's a useful tidbit of information right there. I have a print lab so most of what I do with cutting will be exactly that. Sounds like the wall mount solutions aren't that great if this is one's primary applications.

I've been using a straight edge (Alvin rule with the T finger protector) and a utility knife thus far and it gets the job done BUT, my volume for mounted prints is about to go up and this will just not be an efficient workflow. I also need a perfect right angle as well and you don't always get that if you're doing it by hand.

Cheers, Joe
 
The bar that the head rides on clamps down on the foam core in a manner that allows it to be tilted in the cutter. The Fletcher clamp is a different configuration that does not hold the piece firmly enough. If you have at least a half inch of excess mount board it can go under the bar clamp. If the excess is only a 1/4 inch the artwork can go under tha clamp without damage. You can easily see where the blade line is since it is 1/8" away from the clamp bar and your piece can be set in place twisted by visually aligning it with the bar. Trimming of 1/8" of excess board is not advised in any of the equipment since you run the risk of tearing the edge of the board.
 
Jeff Rodier said:
The bar that the head rides on clamps down on the foam core in a manner that allows it to be tilted in the cutter. The Fletcher clamp is a different configuration that does not hold the piece firmly enough.
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That's a problem I never had with my 3000, maybe because the clamp was adjusted to impose adequate pressure. You could put a non-slip pad on the clamp, too. The model 3100 is heavier-duty than the 3000, but I believe any professional-grade wall cutter should be able to hold a piece of foam board at an odd angle securely enough for cutting.

The FSC now on my wall will hold 1/2" Gatorfoam, Sintra, or ACM at an odd angle and cut it perfectly using the laser sight.

The Titan cutter may be all you need for trimming up to 3/16" thick. It is compact, less costly than a wall cutter, easy to use, and very accurate.

All of the machines mentioned in this thread are probably suitable for your purpose, but you need to decide which one will serve your needs best. Your choices for suppliers of the machines, shipping cost, and convenience of buying consumables (blades, etc.) could affect your decision.





I am a Fletcher-Terry customer and occasional consultant.
 
Thanks Jim,

I just placed an order for the Titan. It seems to provide the most precision for trimming off the excess foam core on a mounted photo. In addition if set up right I can let go of the print or gently adjust the alignment without gravity pulling in the wrong direction (errr.... as if it pulls in any direction other than down... just seems like that would be a more difficult adjustment to make with a wall mount unit).

Cheers, Joe
 
Just wanted to follow up. I've been using the Titan now for almost 8 months. It does the specific job I set out to do quite well which is, to cut along the printed edge of a mounted print. I really need millimeter accuracy and after using the Titan I absolutely can't imagine getting that same precision (especially with 40"x60" pieces) or speed out of a wall mount.

I actually have a need for a wall mount cutter now but the Titan won't be going anywhere.

Cheers, Joe
 
shewhorn said:
I actually have a need for a wall mount cutter now but the Titan won't be going anywhere.
Click to expand...

Previously you mentioned the model 3100, and it might cut everything you need to cut, including 1/2" Gatorfoam, aluminum sheeting, ACM, and other heavy-duty substrates.

If you want the most robust wall-mounted cutter, my nomination would be the Fletcher Model FSC. I love mine.



Still a framer, still using Fltcher tools, and still consulting for them on occasion.
 
It's between that and the 3100. I think the deciding factor will be... what can I find used. A 3100 would do for now. As the lab ads products I'll probably need to be able to cut Al but that'll be a while. I figure if I find a used 3100 and I do need the FSC in the near future, I can sell it and not lose much (or heck... maybe even make a buck).

Cheers, Joe
 
shewhorn said:
It's between that and the 3100. I think the deciding factor will be... what can I find used...I figure if I find a used 3100 and I do need the FSC in the near future, I can sell it and not lose much (or heck... maybe even make a buck).
Click to expand...

There is a glut of used framing equipment available now, so you can probably find a good used model 3100. It is a mature design, and there are many in use. Buying used equipment works out OK if you know what you're buying, and if it serves your purpose, and if you know how to adjust it and replace parts that might be needed.

Whether you can profitably upgrade from a 3100 to an FSC later would be a crapshoot. When it comes time to sell that 3100, you may be disappointed with the price you could get for it, and the FSC might cost more by that time.

Also, we tend to keep and use what we have long past the time when we could benefit from better equipment, so you might work inefficiently with your 3100 for some time before you get around to upgrading to the FSC. I have done that myself and know others who have done the same.

You would be lucky to find a used model FSC, because it is a newer design, fewer are in use at this early stage, and those who have bought them are still using them.


My suggestion would be to assess your needs as accurately as you can, and invest now in the machine that will best serve you as far into the future as possible.
 
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