Fletcher 2200 - Bowed Cuts

RobHay

Grumbler in Training
Joined
May 21, 2024
Posts
5
Loc
Austin, TX
Business
Harry Ransom Center, UT
Hi,

We've been using the Fletcher 2200 for quite a few years and we've recently developed a problem that we can seem to diagnose/fix. Whenever we cut a bevel cut, the cut bows out in the middle away from the face of the clamp. The plunge cut hooks away from the clamp and the cut veers out about 1/16" and pulls back in towards the back of the cut. Here are the steps we've tried:

1. Changed blades. Tried 1200 and 1500.
2. Adjusted all of the tension screws on the cutting head.
3. Swapped out the cutting head from a 2100.
4. Swapped out the clamp from a 2100.
5. Tried a variety of mat board and slip sheets.
6. Tried varying pressure on the clamp.
7. Shifted from pulling the cutting head from the end of the mat cutter to the side.
8. Two of us tried (in case it was user error) and got the same results.

I'm not sure how long this has been happening because we've only been cutting small mats for quite some time and this is more visible with larger mats. If we raise the clamp and run the cutting head the blade perfectly aligns with the edge of the clamp along the whole run of the cut. I even tried to physically deflect the blade without any luck. I can't think off hand of any other variables we could try. Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks
 
Thanks for the replies! Yes, the table is level and solid. I've cut mats on this table for nearly 10 years. I've also altered the blade protrusion to see if there is any difference in the "wandering" to no avail. I've deliberately under and over cut and the same deviation occurs.
 
What specific blades are you using? I know you mentioned .012" & .015", but SE or DE?
 
The round bar of the clamping bar that spans the working length of the cutter rotates in holes in blocks that are attached to each end of the machines arms. These arms are also what attaches to the handle that is pressed down for created the clamping action.

The holes in these blocks can have wear that will allow wabble in the clamping bar. I would check this wear point (the actual hole and the inserted axle of the bar) to eliminate it as an issue.
 
And is the bed of the cutter perfectly flat? A cutter that bows in the middle might cause this.
 
Hi, all,

1. The bed is indeed flat. I went over it this morning to make sure there was not any adhesive or anything that would push the mat board up.
2. I use the double edge blades.
3. I've varied the blade depth considerably with the same results.
4. There is no wiggle in the clamp shaft.

I've been working with Fletcher-Terry who asked me to pad the ends of the clamp to ensure a slight bend in the clamp shaft. No difference. I've attached a couple of images. I drew a pencil line down the clamp fence before cutting. While cutting, the line didn't move (so I assume the mats didn't either!) and, as you can see in the details, the cut wanders quite a bit from throughout the length of the cut.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3952.JPG
    IMG_3952.JPG
    42.9 KB · Views: 48
  • Cuts.jpg
    Cuts.jpg
    46.1 KB · Views: 43
Try making a cut without any additional downward pressure on the hand rail.
I had issues with a different kind of mat cutter, but similar symptoms. It was resolved when I discovered I was warping the bar upward in the center by pushing down so hard on the rail. That, and the slip sheet didn't extend end to end, and the bar was essentially pushing down an extra 1/8" on the ends than it was in the center. With a larger mat the contact points of the bar with the edges of the mat were farther apart and resulted in a slight doming of the bar.
On my 60" cutter I have to put additional slip sheets at the starting end to make sure the bar is evenly supported for the entire length.
 
Thanks for the idea, but no difference unfortunately. Fletcher-Terry is sending the problem onto their engineers. I'll post the solution which I'm anticipating is going to be a new clamp assembly.
 
I have had the same problem with the same cutter, to me the clamping bar seemed to be bowed. I thought maybe it was damaged in shipping but your post makes me wonder if it’s a wider issue. Let’s us know what you find out!
 
Hey all,
I spoke with an engineer at FT who was equally stumped. We walked through every variable and it looks like it might be one of two things:
1. The clamp is supposed to have a slight bow in it in the middle towards the deck. Ours doesn't.
2. The cutting head pivot might have too much give in it and may be deflecting when under pressure.

FT offers a replacement clamp/cutting head combo and it looks like we'll be trying to switch both out.

Thanks!

Rob.
 
Hey all,
I spoke with an engineer at FT who was equally stumped. We walked through every variable and it looks like it might be one of two things:
1. The clamp is supposed to have a slight bow in it in the middle towards the deck. Ours doesn't.
2. The cutting head pivot might have too much give in it and may be deflecting when under pressure.

FT offers a replacement clamp/cutting head combo and it looks like we'll be trying to switch both out.

Thanks!

Rob.
I hope it works for you. Let us know how it goes. It will almost certainly be helpful for someone in the future.
 
...1. The clamp is supposed to have a slight bow in it in the middle towards the deck. Ours doesn't.
Now that you mention this, I recall having a similar problem about three decades ago with our older F2000 mat cutter, but had a similar design.

It turned out that a new employee was pushing too hard on the clamping bar handle, and that excess pressure caused the clamping bar to cup the opposite way. Also, he might have been pressing on one end of the clamping bar handle, rather than near the middle, but I don't remember for sure.

So, have you tried varying the hand pressure on the clamping bar?
 
Back
Top