Fitting a Mirror

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soho

CGF, Certified Grumble Framer
Joined
Feb 1, 2003
Posts
103
Loc
West Palm Beach, Florida
I'm about to fit my first mirror project and would love to have some advice on the proper technique from the Grumbling masses.

My thought is to back up the mirror with foamcore, shoot points all around and then finish filling the rabbet with a cut piece of Masonite?! Is that too much weight...i dunno!

Better ideas would be appreciated!

Thanks
Joel
 
Joel - be sure to paint the inside edge of the rabbet black. The mirror will reflect the inside edge so you want a nice, smooth finish - not gesso or an ugly finish. THe black rabbet reflects nicely.

We fit ours as you describe, but w/o masonite unless it's big. Mirror hangers, of course - NO WIRES.

Tony
 
Joel,
There was a thread recently on mirror fitting so you might want to check the archives.
The first question I would have is "what size mirror vs. what size frame." The folks that espouse the use of masonite backing usually make it large enough to screw to the back of the frame to strengthen it, but if the frame is strong enough already it may not be needed and it does add a bit of weight.

Nice meeting you in Atlanta, and yes, you owe Framerguy and myself a half a beer each from the Saturday night at the Omni. We'll collect next year.
 
Wally...

The largest mirror is 24 x 30 with a fairly hefty frame moulding...so you think a couple of layers of foamboard are enough. I'd prefer that just to save the weight.

By next year, with interest that 1/2 beer will be at laest 2 beers which I'll be happy to buy. Really enjoyed meeting y'all in HotLanta!!

Joel
 
I've been using black foam and points. I like the idea of adding spots of silicone to keep it centered and for extra security. With the new larger size offsets these days, I've been using black foam and reversing the appropriate size offsets. Shims to keep it centered would probably due with the offsets.

[ 09-20-2003, 11:26 AM: Message edited by: lessafinger ]
 
Joel,
Specialty tapes makes a 1/4" wide felt rabbet tape for mirror applications. It is a dark brown so you won't need to paint the rabbet.
Other than that I would think that foam and framers points would suffice on those size mirrors. If the frame is deep I will build a light weight strainer frame to hold the mirror in and provide additional strength. A dust cover is unnecessary, though is still often used for aesthetics.
If they are beveled mirrors, you may want to use some kind of shimming material to center the mirror in the frame, black foam core, or black core mat board.
 
Originally posted by soho:
....Better ideas would be appreciated!...
Click to expand...
Joel,

I teach a seminar entitled "Fitting Mirrors with Style", where we complete a custom framed mirror and also discuss the multitude of hanging options.

Some framers opt for a quick fitting technique that is sufficient to keep the package together and is efficient - Get a caulking gun, fill it with mirror adhesive and just caulk it into place.... then let it cure for 24 hours.... very simple and easy. Weight of mirror keeps it in place during drying time -- It is a technique practiced by the large Decor OEM producers. If the frame is every brought into your shop for repair, however, it's a PIA!

As custom framers, I feel that we can spend a bit more time finishing the fitting process with some style. We have found the following procedure works great for us...............</font>
  • We have located a nearby glass house that cuts Masonite to size for us. We have them typically cut the board about 1/4 inch smaller than the outside back of the frame - centered. (Not fit into the frame)</font>
  • We drill, then screw in 1/2 - 5/8 inch stainless steel flathead screws, size No. 6 about every 3-1/2 to 4 inches apart. These are placed strategically and symetrically around the frame.</font>
  • Screw in each of the above screws with a matching nickel plated cup washer. This gives the back a smooth and professional finish.</font>
  • Allow a space for the location of the hardware and "bumpers"</font>
  • Fit with Wallbuddies, Strap Hangers, or Hook Ups.</font>
  • Instead of standard bumper pads, you can pick up oversized, rubber bumpers at your local hardware store. These will hold the bottom of the mirror out just a bit futher, keeping it flat to the viewer.</font>
The Hook-Ups are my favorite for this project as they support the weight well and allow the user to adjust for levelness.

Mirror shops typically follow a similar procedure but just use inexpensive screws and standard strap (mirror) hangers. Sometimes they'll just staple the masonite unto the frame.

Regards,

John

[ 09-22-2003, 10:42 AM: Message edited by: John Ranes II, CPF, GCF ]
 
Please excuse my naiveté, but why put foam board or masonite or anything backing a mirror?

A good mirror should have a protective coat on the back of the silver and should resist the modest abrasion of the glazer's points or brads. Since many mirrors are placed in the high humidity environments of bathrooms, I would seem to me that having any backing would promote the growth of mold.

Just curious.
 
If nothing else, so that you don't break the mirror while shooting the points in. And forgive me John for speaking for you, but I think the reason he uses Masonite screwed into the frame is the fact that it makes for a super strong frame, always a plus when dealing with those big ole' honkin' heavy mirrors.
 
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