Fillet question

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nick1980

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Joined
Jun 19, 2008
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42
I have never used fillets before and have a quick question. I'm wanting to use them on the matboard so I know I use a reverse bevel and have a fairly good idea from searching the forum how to cut them but my question is I purchased some different fillets today and some of them seem to be fairly thick? So I know I tuck the flat part under the reverse bevel and tape it or something but the fillets seem to be taller/thicker than the thickness of the matboard? I'm using standard ply board and I'm sure the top of the fillet is going to be higher than the board and therefore be hitting the glass before the matboard will? Thus causing the fillet to come loose or be a weird angle from the inside of the matboard to the frame moulding? I was planning on using a single mat, I'm sure if I double matted then my problem would be solved but I would rather single mat for this piece.

Thanks
 
Use spacers to elevate the glass above the fillet - the glass should not be in contact with the fillet
 
You can do a coupla things: join the fillet with glue and vice(always a good idea).
If it aesthetically looks fine sticking above the mat surface, use some form of "spacer" material to allow the glass to "clear" your fillet. Orrr, you can "build-up" the rabbet of the fillet with the appropriate depth of material to flush up the fillet to the mat.

clear as mud?
 
Also if you are using this on the Dali you must have a bottom mat to protect the art. Your bottom mat needs to extend 1/4" beyond the filet's inner edge to assure safety.
 
Nick...

.. from your posts I can see you are a
new framer...

From your questions, I can see you are already
a conscientious framer

My hat is off to you!


Welcome to the "G"!

You have much to offer
 
Jeff is correct about having a conservation grade mat below the fillet on a valuable piece like the Dali. Fillets are decorative but, unfortunately, adding a wood element inside the framing package is counter-productive from a preservation point of view. I believe it is acceptable as long as the mat below extends 1" inwards beyond the fillet, so you'll have to measure your design proportions accordingly. You might actually find it simpler to simulate a fillet with an inner mat that is painted or decorated with acrylic or other non-solvent-based paint. You could separate this from the art with a recessed undermat.

If you use the Grumble's search function you will find a wealth of information on the use of fillets and alternatives. It would be advisable to practice on a decorative print before tackling the Dali.
:cool: Rick
 
Mat board (even rag) is not a barrier against acid migration. If you look at a piece of rag mat under a microscope, you will see that it look just like a scotch brite pad. Air, acid from lignen, and other gasses will pass right through rag board.
Aluminum foil tape or glass would be a good barrier.
During our research for FACTS we found an old etching that had a regular paper mat on top of a 4 ply rag inner mat. The print was acid burned right through the 4 ply rag mat EXCEPT where the ATG tape held the two mats together. Perhaps the gummy ATG adhesive was a physical/mechanical barrier. This also means that 2 ply rag is not a barrier and "barrier paper" is useless as a barrier.
 
Right. I was assuming that metal foil tape would be part of the filet installation process. That's what we do, anyhow.
:kaffeetrinker_2: Rick
 
do not forget to elevate the mat(with appropriate filler) to aprox. = the height of the fillet 'shelf' else your mat will tend to sag (because of the lack of that support) at that point and the edge closest to the fillet will rise/seperate at the 'join' ..........and then you get to take it all apart and do it all over again!:cry:
 
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