Filet Cutter

Gene Scott

True Grumbler
Jul 3, 2001
Elizabeth City, N.C., USA
Hi Folks...

I've decided I need a filet cutter. I've been cutting them for 9+ years on my saw, putting them together, and then cutting the mat to fit the joined filet...completely backwards. The reason I've been doing it this way is because my retail shop is too small for me to have a "dirty area" with saws, sanders, etc. and all that type work is done in my workshop at home.

I've decided I'd like the capability to cut the mat first and then trim the filet to fit...the right way! So I need a relatively compact good filet cutter for the shop. Any suggestions considering your use of the various brands?
A heck of a fine looking "cutter" that is FramerDave. How do you hold the angle with that?

BTW...I knew the spelling of "filet" looked wrong when I reread the message! :D
I have used one fillet cutter or another for years. Just recently I started using my saw to cut fillets since I don't have a fillet cutter in the shop assuming I would get one sooner or later. But, I am convinced that the saw does just as good a job so I don't really want one any longer. I think what really does the trick is the mitre sander, it makes it so easy to shave just a "hair" off.

But, the best fillet cutter I have used is the Art Mac Micro Mitre. I never got consistent cuts on the Framesquare brand.
i have always used a saw, a little mini miter saw

then i fine cut on an lion mitre trimmer> if you want a good deal on a trimmer, let me know.

Then I join the filet with the casesse c79
the little red one - and cut that mat to fit !

and buzz onto the nexy one !

I use my chopper and then my Alfamacchine sander as needed. Never have any problems.

Dave Makielski
Until recently, I had resisted pushing fillets in our shop because of the difficulty in cutting those stupid interior miters with any accuracy or consistency.

Largely because of Mike Labbe’s endorsement, I looked into FilletMaster. I got one and now I’m trying to get gramma to use fillets on their grand kids’ finger paints. With the FilletMaster it is a snap! Quick and easy.

I’m using mine in conjunction with a Morsø chopper. I don’t know how it would work with a saw, though.

If you’re thinking of adding to or modifying your repertoire, consider the FilletMaster. There is a video online which describes how to use it.

The FilletMaster is a bit pricey and takes a bit of time to calibrate to your cutters, but it is made well. Check it out!
I am on my second AMP mini miter. The first one lasted 9 years but the blades were dull and the way it was put together made it impossible to get the screws out to change the blades. Because I do so many fillets, it was worth another $200 to buy one with sharp blades that I can remove and have sharpened at will. The AMP isn't very big and doesn't take up much space. About 3 feet in length.

You can have my old one if you think you can find a way to get the blades off and have them sharpened. You may have more luck with it than I did. It still works, but isn't very sharp. In my humble opinion, if you are doing a lot of fillets, a mini miter is only way to go.
I saw something in a recent magazine about a fillet ruler. Was going to check it out in Vegas.
Also, tried to sign up for the "Fillets and More" class in Vegas but it's already full.

Does anyone have any info on either one?
I've been using the AMP Mini-Mitre for a few years and, in conjunction with an AMP mitre sander, it's great. I keep it stashed under the work table mounted on a board, and I can't envision an easier way to deal with 'em.

Not quite sure what the problem is with changing the blades...I have an extra set and have gotten them resharpened now and then when I send my saw blades into Rite-Way ... (now, if I could only find those suckers...). Anyway, changing them has never been a problem ... a couple of recessed screws ...
Those screws were the problem. I could never get them out. It just got to be more time consumeing than it was worth. As I told Gene, he can have my old one if he wants it. He may have more luck getting the blades off than I did. It still works fine, just not sharp enough for my satisfaction.

I have my AMP mounted on the back side of one of my work tables, but your idea of mounting it on a board and only bringing it out when you need it is great. Sometimes there is just not enough room for all the equipment. More space ususally means more money out of our pockets, so finding a way to work with the space you have is always a good deal.
Attention Pat Kotnour and others,

The problem with the screws is called "metric." Not that metric screws are a problem, but not knowing they are is the problem.

My guess is that someone tried to undo the screw using an American or “Imperial” inches Allen head wrench. Since it would not fit quite right the slot got rounded and you then find that even the correct 2.5 mm metric wrench will not work.

I have found if I use a very sharp centre punch, clamp the chopper in a vise and gently tap the screw counter clockwise using a light hammer, very close to the outer edge of the screw I can rotate it out. Move the punch to a couple of different positions to ensure you balance the pressure as you tap it out. I then replace it with a SLOTTED M4 x 0.7 8mm long machine screw. Then you no longer have an Allen head to strip! The other key is to lubricate the end of the screw with a white calcium grease. This is a lubricant that every frame shop should have to lubricate any threads. One of the best and oldest brands is Lubriplate #105 and it comes in a handy 1 ¾ oz plastic squeeze tube. It works magic on all threaded parts on mat cutters, underpinners, saws etc. You can usually buy it in any good auto parts centre.

To those who have purchased the Fletcher F3100 Wall cutter you might experience the same problem with their cutting head with the Matboard pillar post and you can tap the screws out the same method, and then replace the imperial Allen head screw with a slotted machine screw.

I have an old "Frame Square" Brand fillet Cutter that is great. I've never had any problem with the corners and it still cuts like a dream.

It's small so I can use it right on the mat cutting table after I cut the mat. I just put a piece of mat underneath to catch the wood shavings. Easy clean up.

Easy to store and you don't have to walk back and forth from the chopper or saw.

You can mount the thing in one place but I like being able to move it around.

Allen, Yes, that was the problem and I did buy the correct Allen head wrench in the metric size, but the screws were so tight that no matter what I did I couldn't loosen them. If I thought that it was going to be an on going problem I wouldn't have purchased another one, but it is a good little machine. My new AMP works just great and Gene might be able to get a lot more use out of my old one. It has been sitting around collecting dust for 8 months so I'm glad that someone can get some use out of it. If he can get the blades off, he got a really good deal. Chow and go.......VIKINGS!
Thanks to all for the responses. Pat was more than generous with her I'll fight the screws! Will try Alan's method.

Again...Thanks to all for being willing/able to share the vast amount of Good info ya'll possess.
Assuming that:
- the Allen sockets are not stripped
- your new wrench is a substantial sucker
- your wrench is disposable (the following might do it in)

then, slide a one foot length of small steel pipe over the handle of the wrench while in the (tight) socket and have at it.

A threat and a curse help, too.....