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Direct Contact Overlays DCO Book by James Miller

Mike Labbe

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Nikodeumus

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I'm proud of this one, from the first year or so of my framing career.
Float mounted the "papyrus" on the drop out from the window.
I think this was the first project I used rice starch and mulberry hinge paper to do a "pass through mount".
The under matt is brushed gold, it doesn't look as good in the photo as it does in person.
I cut the decorative reverse beveled border manually on my Fletcher 2100. No 'Pewter here.

Galavan-Egyptian Papyrus.jpg
 

Nikodeumus

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Ok that is WEIRD. I just got a photo reminder from Facebook of something I had framed, and it used that exact moulding!
I like the Anvil line. It works for a lot of different design themes.
I've used that same one a handful of times also.
I call that particular moulding "rebar".
Unfortunately, I don't seem to have taken photos of any of the designs I used it for. :rolleyes:
 
Direct Contact Overlays DCO Book by James Miller

Nikodeumus

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Here's another fun one.
This was from 2011.
A co-worker in the building is a huge Prince fan.
The ticket was from a concert 5 years before his untimely death.

She saved one piece of confetti from the concert. (The larger piece under the etched symbol.)
I made some smaller confetti from purple craft paper.

I etched Princes "squiggle" symbol on the glass for an extra bit of interest.

The material was that Taffy line from several years ago.
Don't look at the corners too closely.
I really liked the bright high gloss colours, but the finish chipped so bad I stopped displaying the samples.

I don't know what the matt is. I pulled it out of my "waste" pile. JUSTIFICATION FOR MATT HORDING ! 🤣

Prince concert.jpg
 
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Shayla

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Here's another fun one.
This was from 2011.
A co-worker in the building is a huge Prince fan.
The ticket was from a concert 5 years before his untimely death.

She saved one piece of confetti from the concert. (The larger piece under the etched symbol.)
I made some smaller confetti from purple craft paper.

I etched Princes "squiggle" symbol on the glass for an extra bit of interest.

The material was that Taffy line from several years ago.
Don't look at the corners too closely.
I really liked the bright high gloss colours, but the finish chipped so bad I stopped displaying the samples.

I don't know what the matt is. I pulled it out of my "waste" pile. JUSTIFICATION FOR MATT HORDING ! 🤣

View attachment 34491

Great look. The mat is an old Crescent. Something like 4806, or 48406. I still have a couple of scraps somewhere.

Have you etched the glass on other projects, too?
 

Nikodeumus

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Great look. The mat is an old Crescent. Something like 4806, or 48406. I still have a couple of scraps somewhere.

Have you etched the glass on other projects, too?
I used to do acid glass etching as a hobbyist/market vendor.
I've done lots of different kinds of glassware, and mirrors.
Many years ago I experimented with a few small frames, just for myself.
This was the first time I had incorporated it in a frame project for someone else.
I like the look. I have some ideas in the back of my mind for some other test projects.
The shadow effect in the sample photo shows how it can be dramatic in a deep frame.
On frames where the etched area is directly over a matt or photo the effect is much more subtle, as there are nearly no shadows.
 
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Nikodeumus

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Some of the Taffy colors were horrible to cut. However, I have the green version in my house and the corners were perfect.

Somewhere, I have a cut off as well.......might even be 5’
I had a small collection of fingernail polish that I used to do touch-ups on the corners of the few Taffy frames I cut.
When I stopped using Taffy, I gave the polish to my niece. She loved the bright colours. 🤩
 

Mary Beth van der Horst

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The Anvil line is one of my favorites! I wish I had more finished pics, but heres a visualizer preview I saved where I was using it. Living by the beach, I like that it reminds me of rusty portholes on ships and put it on paintings of many docks! I carried that idea over to remind us of rivets on an airplane for this piece. The black box on the Hell Hawks WWII patch was for a plaque with the battalion info--a very memorable project I did while still at ACMoore. I just regret not having a finished picture to share with u Hell Hawks Patch.JPG
 

Nikodeumus

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It's one of my favourites too!
This is the first thing I framed with Anvil.
It's just a simple poster frame package.
Nothing special at all about the package (as can be seen by the horrible reflections in the standard clear glass).
I just really like the Anvil finish.
The poster is hanging in one of the staff washrooms 🤣
cw3.jpg cw2.jpg cw1.jpg
 

Larry Peterson

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Nice. Who is the manufacturer for the anvil line?
 
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Nikodeumus

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Larson Juhl makes Anvil.
The particular item in Mary Beth's and my sample photos is #288615
The other finishes in the Anvil line are nice too.
They stack together very well with each other (and other mouldings as well) for some really unique "aged industrial" design themes.
 

Larry Peterson

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Larson Juhl makes Anvil.
The particular item in Mary Beth's and my sample photos is #288615
The other finishes in the Anvil line are nice too.
They stack together very well with each other (and other mouldings as well) for some really unique "aged industrial" design themes.


Thanks. I have been going through LJs moulding lines looking for new mouldings to add. I had looked at anvil but LJs photos of this line leave a bit to be desired so I passed it by. Now its on my list to order for next week.
 

Framar

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Anvil is also fun to refinish. I have sprayed it solid glossy black and also flat matte white. Also added a rust-colored wash to the one with the rivets.
 
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Framar

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Here's one where I matched the flat black of the aged aluminum ornament. Horse and carriage and painted Anvil frame.jpg
 
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Framar

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And here is a detail of a large wedding shadowbox which I did for the mother of the bride with the bride's input. I was never allowed to publish a photo of the whole thing which is probably good because the marriage did not last very long.

Anyhow - bride wanted rustic frame but in pure white. Okey dokey.


Mi & Mi shadowbox detaillow res.jpg
 
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Framar

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Oh, and a rust wash is a diluted acrylic in whatever color you feel looks the most like rust and you slather it on and wipe it off to suit your project.
 

Shayla

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Thanks. I have been going through LJs moulding lines looking for new mouldings to add. I had looked at anvil but LJs photos of this line leave a bit to be desired so I passed it by. Now its on my list to order for next week.

Do you have their Carbon frames? There are two, and they look like charred wood. Beautiful.
 

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Framar

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I dunno. No offense, but having lived through a house fire, I just can't imagine why anyone would want a burned-looking frame in their house. That profile creeps me out big time.

People with real burned frames come in to have new frames on their art.

*shaking my head*
 

Mary Beth van der Horst

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Wow I feel so silly now. I carried one of the Carbon frames at AC Moore and was intrigued by the texture but never made the connection to burnt wood. I always pulled it down everytime I got a picture of alligators or elephants in black and white. The cracked wood reminded me of scaly or wrinkly hide! I think the metallic lip threw me off from the natural/rustic vibe. Now I know that was a larson frame... WHERES MY OLD SAMPLE?! ITS GOING ON THE WALL!
 

Nikodeumus

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I dunno. No offense, but having lived through a house fire, I just can't imagine why anyone would want a burned-looking frame in their house. That profile creeps me out big time.

People with real burned frames come in to have new frames on their art.

*shaking my head*
Oh my goodness, I'm sorry to hear about your house fire.
From that perspective, I can see how a burnt frame would not be appealing at all.
 

Shayla

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I dunno. No offense, but having lived through a house fire, I just can't imagine why anyone would want a burned-looking frame in their house. That profile creeps me out big time.

People with real burned frames come in to have new frames on their art.

*shaking my head*

My mom would agree. Her family lost two houses to fire, and she can't bear to see such things. I'm sorry to hear about yours.
The way our samples are stored, customers don't see these unless I bring them out.
 
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Nikodeumus

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The Anvil line is one of my favorites! I wish I had more finished pics, but heres a visualizer preview I saved where I was using it. Living by the beach, I like that it reminds me of rusty portholes on ships and put it on paintings of many docks!

Your post here reminded me a photo session I did many years ago of a breakwater made from old rusty ships.

PortHoleview002.jpg

I got a really good set of photos that day, here's one that I am going to put into an anvil frame I had cut from left-over stock.
(Scrap is good! 🤣 )

pth.jpg

Taking suggestions for matting / design ideas :D
 

Nikodeumus

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I've never done any frame wash or matt dry rub embellishments.
I'd like to learn. I've enjoyed the examples others have posted in various threads.
Do you have any favourite resources for learning these techniques?

I do have a textured rustic metallic matt piece I was considering.
I've had this scrap for many years, I really like it.
I don't remember what SKU this is, I think it's a Crescent matt?

frm1.jpg frm2.jpg
 

Ylva

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I like the mat!
But the frame needs to match it better.

You could use acrylic paint. Not a lot, dry brush it. What that means is that you barely touch the paint and apply a minimum to the frame. You’re not trying to color it completely, just high light it.
When you use a brush, take off as much access paint as you can, just leaving the bare minimum.
Then brush it into the frame, barely touching it.

Not sure if anyone teaches how to.practice on some! I also like the rub ‘n’ buff. Same principle, barely touching the frame.
Better to build up than using too much at once.

Other than that. Trial and error. Warning! Very addictive.
 
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Framar

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Remember "antiquing"? When everyone bought kits with a flat latex base and then an oil-based antiquing toner (not unlike a stain). This was a huge fad in the sixties and seventies. Kits came with brushes, cheesecloth - everything one would need to ruin, er, I mean, enhance beautiful antique wooden furniture and frames.

Everything was painted with the flat latex in cream or other various pale colors, let dry, then slather on the oil stain antiquing stuff. Since it was oil based, it would take a while to dry so you could grab wads of cheesecloth and wipe off as much or as little of the toner to suit your taste.

Same principle applies to toning a frame with acrylic. Figure that the original finish is fairly sturdy, thin down some acrylic, slather it on and wipe it off FAST! If too much dries on, just dampen your cloth and wi[e some more. And if you don't like it the first time around - rinse everything off, let dry, and start over again.

After you have achieved the look you desire, seal with Krylon matte spray.

But it's like getting to Carnagie Hall - you have to practice. ;)

And BTW, the dry brush technique can be a lot more difficult - I find I have to be in just the right mood to get it to work.
 
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Nikodeumus

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one more from Chester (seems like I've been using them a lot lately, huh?) This one is a custom depth shadow box; the art is a mask by the artist Hebru Brantley
View attachment 35153
That's awsome!

How did you attach the mask? Is it removable?
I have six paper mache masks to mount in individual frames.
I am going to play around with making some kind of hooks from black plastic coated wire.

My client isn't worried about long term effects of the masks being exposed to the room environment.
The masks are not valuable, nor will they be "hierlooms", just fun decorative art projects.
So, not shadowboxed like yours.
 
Direct Contact Overlays DCO Book by James Miller
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