Ever Use Straight Mat Edges With A Fillet?

Create a Post
Shayla

Shayla

WOW Framer
Forum Donor
Joined
Apr 5, 2008
Posts
35,836
Loc
Washington State
We've always used reverse bevels for our fillet windows. Someone just
asked me if it's possible to cut the window with no bevel. I'm not aware
of that being possible on the Wizard, and although I suppose I could do
it on our manual cutter, I'm just used to doing reverse bevels. I can see
how a blunt edge to butt the fillet up to would be nice, but it seems that
the core of the mat would be more likely to show than with a rev. bevel.

What is your practice/thought on this subject?
 
Revbev here - no way will the core be seen and it's about presentation, not function. To ensure the core would never be seen with a 90 degree cut I'd want to stick the bevel to the fillet and that's a bit too finicky.
 
That's how I see it. I'm super finicky about the fillet fitting perfectly
into the window, and I like having no chance the core will show. I've
seen a few times where people use fillets with standard bevels, but
haven't ever done it myself.
 
I mostly use standard bevel with fillets.

I tack scrap pieces (square cut) on the back of the mat to thicken it up a bit. Then the top of the fillet is away from the glass.
 
Always used reverse bevels, never even considered any other way.
 
Only ever used reverse bevels!
Normal bevels with a fillet look shonky IMO!
 
Always reverse bevels and an acrylic glass spacer to keep the glazing off of the fillet. Seems to me that a straight cut would be thicker than most fillets, stick up from the mat and show the core. We also are very particular on fillet fit. Curious as to why someone would request this?
 
Because that someone isn't already a picture framer, I suppose.
I was showing my hubby how I put a fillet into a window, and he
said, 'Why don't you make a straight cut, so you can just butt it
up against the window and have more contact?' I gave the same
kind of answer most have given here, then said, 'I'll ask on
the Grumble and tell you what they say.'

I do agree about making sure the glass doesn't hit the fillet edge.
I use conservation glass on probably 95% of our frame jobs (with
about 85% being con. clear and another 10% museum), and not
using spacers can result in scratches.
 
Besides the potential of having the edge of the opening show next to the fillet, I think you get a cleaner edge with a reverse bevel, with no overcuts. I have my machine set to do reverse bevels so that I have to finish the corner cuts from the back with a razor blade. That really insures a nice-looking reverse bevel corner.
:cool: Rick
 
Do you have any straight cut mats kicking around to show Dirk how it would look? Seeing would be better than telling.

Could just butt it against the outside edge of a mat to show him. I have never not used a reverse bevel or a regular bevel so I can only guess that the core would show and that the effect would be 'not what you are after'. Besides how would you cut it? A straight edge and an exacto? Any wave in the cut would be magnified by the fillet. Any error would be magnified. And it would be more difficult or requiring new tools.
 
This is my usual method.

filletdiag001.jpg


Fillets vary, so this way accommodates different heights and the tops are always sunk below the level of the mat. With revbevs the top is either level (if you are lucky) or sticks up and touches the glass.
Even though there is a square-cut packer behind, I don't take if right up to the edge as they are easier to fit tight on a sharp edge. A 'interference' fit as they say in engineering circles. I'm talking a gnat's eyebrow here, but a sharp edge will give a bit.

As for aesthetic considerations, the visible bevel can add an extra sculptural element. That's my excuse anyway..... :icon11:

Works nicely with black core.

fillet001.jpg
 
Z David said:
Does a Wizard CMC not do straight cuts?
Z
Click to expand...

Depends on the model. The 8000 only does 45 degree cuts; my 9000 does 45, 90, and 54.

After I got my 9000 I tried the 90-degree option. No good. I find that I want the reverse bevel to get the core completely out of the way of the fillet and get a nice tight join.
 
I'm enjoying this conversation and will relay all comments to my curious one. Thanks.
 
I almost always use regular bevels with fillets so that I can set that fillet back just like Prospero. I dislike the look of the fillet protruding above the surface of the mat and the mechanics of it are extremely awkward- adding a spacer, etc. One of my many quirks is that I despise reverse bevels so I truly cannot remember any time I ever saw a necessity for using one.

Shayla, setting that fillet back may preclude the use of a straight bevel.

edie the manyrightwaystodoanything goddess
 
Bottom line for me is that it is easier to cut a reverse bevel than a straight cut in a window.
 
To you and to me that may be right, but it isn't going to hang in my house so I will not call sokething hideous, ugly or tacky. If someone asks point blank I may say 'I would chose a different treatment' but I won't tell someone I do kot like their taste.

I have molding on my wall that I 'do not like' which sells quite well and the buyers ask for. If someone wants the bevel showing on a fillet that is their decision not mine. But that said you sell way more fillets than I do. Way more. So your customers must respect your opinion on the matter. It's just that I would never presume to judge a customer's framing choice. Their house not mine..
 
I have never had a customer ask for a cheesy white bevel against a fillet, especially with an antique reproduction Dutch frame. Why in the world would I offer a design like that?
 
I don't like white bevels on anything antique. Fillets or not. :thumbsup: In fact that's a good reason for fitting a fillet. Or gilding the bevel.

I'm not saying use std bevels on all filleted mats. But in certain circumstances why not?

I agree that on Pat's botanical pic a white bevel would look yucky. :thumbsup:
 
prospero said:
...I don't like white bevels on anything antique. Fillets or not. :thumbsup: In fact that's a good reason for fitting a fillet. Or gilding the bevel.
....
Click to expand...
:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Agreed, I don't like white bevels on almost anything; Except for the few times the white line of the bevel adds to the design.

So, Guilded, Painted or wrapped bevels, or fillets. But for original art, I don't like the idea of a fillet in the package, but a spacer under the painted or guilded bevel I like.
framing 007-adj003-lower.jpg
 
One thing I like doing with reverse bevels is using an inner mat of a bright
color with less than 1/16" showing. Just cut one last night, with .044" on
the inner mat. I'll also do this with medium gray for pencil drawings, when
I want a bit of contrast outside, but nothing that competes with the image.
 
Russ pm'd me asking for a photo of a double mat with the inner reveal skinny.

2e2307de-ee98-40ba-a376-92c3cab61f59_zpsa0b776a3.jpg


This was cut at .044, with the whole mat being 1 1/8" wide. Sometimes, I
like a line of color that's narrower than a mat bevel. This comes close, but
that difference still mattered, and there are times I cut them with less.
 
shayla said:
Russ pm'd me asking for a photo of a double mat with the inner reveal skinny.

2e2307de-ee98-40ba-a376-92c3cab61f59_zpsa0b776a3.jpg


This was cut at .044, with the whole mat being 1 1/8" wide. Sometimes, I
like a line of color that's narrower than a mat bevel. This comes close, but
that difference still mattered, and there are times I cut them with less.
Click to expand...

Great idea. And no white bevels showing because of the reverse bevel.

Thanks!
 
Create a Post
Back
Top