Encore mighty core

[cwphoto]

I'm just curious how many people are using this product, what you use it for, and how you cut it? I have been using Ampersand hardboard for a number of years to mount canvas prints, and it was always kind of a big headache. They had to be cut on the table saw, and the very fine dust that is generated is not very healthy to breathe, and the hardboard dulls blades like crazy.

I just tried a piece of this mighty core this evening, and I'm really impressed with it. I figure once I put some PVA glue on it it would warp like crazy, but it actually stays quite stable. I just misted the opposite side with a little water. It is extremely difficult to cut on a Fletcher, and I found that I have to make about three passes. Practice your thumb control... If I don't, it tends to pull to one side or the other, and that's with a new blade. You don't want to try cutting this stuff without a near new blade.

Overall, I'm really impressed with the board.


Troy

 

[ScottK]

Troy,
We sell tons of this product and use it for laminating customers pieces as well. A very stable board that retains its rigidity. Great product!
Similar to Gatorboard, it comes in 1/4" as well as 1/2" up to 48x96. They also make it in a black.
We use a Keencut cutter and it cuts through it easily, so your troubles may just be a function of your cutter and type of blade it uses. If its the Fletcher utility type you may want to use the heavy duty blades which are more rigid.

 

[John Ranes II CPF GCF]

Clarification....

...It is extremely difficult to cut on a Fletcher, and I found that I have to make about three passes. Practice your thumb control... If I don't, it tends to pull to one side or the other, and that's with a new blade....

Troy,

Are you talking about sizing this on right side of a Fletcher F-2100/2200 table mat cutter (which might be tricky) or sizing in on a Fletcher F-3000 or F-3100 which should work just fine?

John

 

[preservator]

Mighty Core

Interesting product. The high density polystyrene core may give it strength without the urea formaldehyde impregnated paper that rasies issues with some other premium strength foam centered boards.


Hugh

 

[cwphoto]

Troy,

Are you talking about sizing this on right side of a Fletcher F-2100/2200 table mat cutter (which might be tricky) or sizing in on a Fletcher F-3000 or F-3100 which should work just fine?

John

I use the 3000 and the double edged mat blade, (05003 I believe). The 3000 cuts everything else with no problem. I just gave it a tune up in fact. What's the part number on the heavy-duty blade mentioned? I also give the clamp a little extra pressure, but not so much to leave an indentation.

Troy

 

[cwphoto]

Interesting product. The high density polystyrene core may give it strength without the urea formaldehyde impregnated paper that rasies issues with some other premium strength foam centered boards.


Hugh

Speaking of the archival properties of this product, and standard foamcore raises a question for me. Is the core of the non-archival foamcore the same as the acid-free? in other words, is it just the paper coating that's different, or is the actual core a different composition? I primarily use the acid-free for mounting and backing boards. Is the acid-free foamcore considered an archival product? I know many times acid-free does not necessarily mean archival, but rather that the material has been buffered with calcium carbonate.

Troy

 

[preservator]

Foam centered board

The core of most foam centered boards is polystyrene (low density for most and high density for Mighty Core). This plastic is probably fine, since it is long lived and does not seem to give off much monomer, but for preservation applications, the plastics one sees used most are polyester, and archival grade polyethylene and polyprolene.