easy way to route 1/8 - 1/4 on bottom of moulding?

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Norton's

Norton's

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Jan 31, 2012
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Saint Louis, MO
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Norton's Fine Art and Framing
Hello all-

I'm looking for an easy way to route out 1/8 - 1/4 inch on the bottom of moulding. I'd like to be able to set a background into that routed out area which I think would simplify other aspects of shadowboxes.

20241108_135318.webp


I have been using a table saw, but I'm hoping to find an easier way since I don't do it very often and hate cleaning off and dragging the table saw out for it.

There is a Chamfer Plane, Edge Corner Planer that is close to what I think would work, but I haven't found any that actually route out, they're more about creating a 45 degree angle or rounding an edge... here is an example. But if there were something similar, hand held, with a blade that would route rather than round that corner edge, I think that would be ideal.

Any recommendations?
Thanks,
Ty
 
WWRUD?

(What would Roy Underhill do?)
 
Router bits are made for a simplified means to cut rabbets. Below is a link for one with multiple bearings which allows you to cut a rabbet at varried depths. They do make one for single depth cutting as well. This is a lower grade bit, Freud makes a similar set ap that's about $60.00 if you think you will use it often

 
Having been a woodworker since middle school I have both hand and power tools. IMHO, you can't beat power tools in most cases for a consistant cut. Like Wally, My #1 tool is a table saw. I also have a router table with good fences.

Remember that "time is money" in a shop vs as a hobby.
 
Norton's said:
Hello all-

I'm looking for an easy way to route out 1/8 - 1/4 inch on the bottom of moulding. I'd like to be able to set a background into that routed out area which I think would simplify other aspects of shadowboxes.

View attachment 50449

I have been using a table saw, but I'm hoping to find an easier way since I don't do it very often and hate cleaning off and dragging the table saw out for it.

There is a Chamfer Plane, Edge Corner Planer that is close to what I think would work, but I haven't found any that actually route out, they're more about creating a 45 degree angle or rounding an edge... here is an example. But if there were something similar, hand held, with a blade that would route rather than round that corner edge, I think that would be ideal.

Any recommendations?
Thanks,
Ty
Click to expand...
Easy work for a router table and a rabbet or straight bit.. Secure your router table fence for the width relative to bit. Raise or lower the bit to your rabbet depth of .125" or .25". I do this all the time and it works great. You can use just a hand router but the precision may not be there as the moulding may move even with good clamps.
 
I would use the table saw (with dado blade) since you have it. Though a router table, or a handheld router with proper sized bit/bearing would work too.
 
Thanks for all of the suggestions.

My original idea was to use a small router table, which would be ideal, but when I tried running the moulding through, the router bit would launch the moulding across the room. So, maybe I'm doing something wrong.

Since the router is rotating the same direction as I'm sliding the moulding through, how do I control the mouldings progress so the bit doesn't shoot it out the other side?
20241109_101145.webp


Thanks again for your help,
Ty
 
You should be pushing your moulding against the rotation of the router bit. That way it bites into the wood as you feed it slowly in.
Your fence should either bridge over or sit south of the bit in your diagram with a cut out through which the cutter blades extend. That way only a small bite of 3 or 4 mm is available.
Maybe a photo of the router table you're using would help to advise.
Be ready for a blizzard of fine sawdust, so a vacuum extractor will come in handy.
 
What Vintage Frames said. Whenever you are cutting, routing, etc., the work being processed ALWAYS feeds against the rotation of the cutting instrument to prevent the Archery effect. In addition, especially for routing, in-feed and out feed hold downs of some sort are required. There a zillion different ones available, one of which is shown below. Not only do they prevent Archery, but they make for a more controlled and precise result.

detail2-hd.jpg
 
Running the moulding against the rotation is how I thought it should go, but I've looked at two of these tables and they both indicated sliding the moulding the same direction as the rotation of the bit.
20241109_113925.webp

I'll try it against the rotation if that will work and it's safe. I need to get some of these hold-downs first though.

Thanks,
Ty
 
No, no, NO!

The bit should be between the fences (this is why they are in 2 parts), with the wood outside, and the direction of the bit should be AGAINST the direction of feeding. The ONLY way you can do Climb Cutting is with a very controlled mechanical feed mechanism.

1731175045714.webp
 
If you bring the fence past the router bit, then you will be pushing the wood against the rotation.
 
Think about how your tablesaw works to do the same process. It's exactly the same as how you should do it on a router table or shaper.
 
With a bearing on the shaft of the bit, you really don't need a fence. The bearing will limit the depth of cut if properly set up.

Just don't try to feed on the right side of the bit's axis.
EVER!
 
David Waldmann said:
Think about how your tablesaw works to do the same process. It's exactly the same as how you should do it on a router table or shaper.
Click to expand...
Okay, is this photo the correct orientation, with the rabbet edge of the moulding against the fence? Ignore the bit, I have the proper bit, just not installed and I'll be getting some hold-downs this weekend. I just want to see if I have the correct general idea at this point.

20241109_122606.webp
 
Just be aware that, if your hold downs have any sort of pressure on them, you can force the moulding towards the fence and cut more than you want. Personally I would not use hold downs in that application.
 
Yes to David Walmann's advice. Forget about the hold-downs,
Going back to the moulding sketch in your initial post, see if you can get a wide fillet which would fill the rebate of your selected moulding.
Cut two lengths of the fillet and stick them to both fences, leaving the gap for the cutter still open. Use double sided adhesive tape.
Now you should be able to slide the moulding whilst pushing against the fillet and this way the moulding will stay up-right and not rock or slip into the bottom of the fence.
Confusing...
I know, but think about it.
 
Yes, sorry, I meant to mention using a spacer. In fact, if you use a spacer you can use a hold down. But really there is no need. The hold down only ensures that you take the full amount off. IF you end up not holding quite tight enough you can always run it through again. With this type of operation you can't take too much off (using a spacer).
 
Vintage Frames said:
Yes to David Walmann's advice. Forget about the hold-downs,
Going back to the moulding sketch in your initial post, see if you can get a wide fillet which would fill the rebate of your selected moulding.
Cut two lengths of the fillet and stick them to both fences, leaving the gap for the cutter still open. Use double sided adhesive tape.
Now you should be able to slide the moulding whilst pushing against the fillet and this way the moulding will stay up-right and not rock or slip into the bottom of the fence.
Confusing...
I know, but think about it.
Click to expand...
That's a very good idea with the fillet spacers, which addresses my concern of the lack of stability. I feel much more comfortable with this setup after your suggestions. I'll use a fillet spacer, skip the hold-downs and see how it goes.
I'll report back after.
Thanks,
Ty
 
Success!

I ended up using a rabbet router bit which worked very smoothly. I was able to freehand the moulding around the bit without using the fence or any hold-downs.

Thanks for all of your suggestions and help, I've been thinking about this for a couple of years now and I'm jazzed to finally have a process to get this done.
Ty
20241116_173833.webp
 
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