Dust cover on large shadow box

Dancinbaer

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
Joined
Apr 26, 2002
Posts
1,267
Loc
De Pere, WI
I'm finishing up a shadow box that is 64x27. I used Framerica Boxer for the frame. The backing board is coroplas. I set framer points every 3-4 inches. I then covered them with white artist tape over the joint between the frame and the backing. I was going to put a paper dust cover on but the ATG wouldn't stick to the frame. I tried both using my ATG gun and then by hand neither would stick.

Would you bother with a dust cover on a piece this size? It would be more for appearance becouse the tape is sealing the joint.

Just wonderin'
 
Denny,

First question, is the artist tape sticking to the frame?? If ATG didn't adhere to the back of the frame, I wonder how long the artist tape will be holding as it is a much less aggressive adhesive than ATG.

The first reaction is to lightly sand the back edge of the frame to remove the offending finish. Once you get that wax or finish off the back of the frame the ATG should stick or any other adhesive you choose to use should stick to the frame.

If I were to leave the cover off the frame, I would probably opt for a linen tape as a dust seal instead of the framers tape which is a paper based tape. This is just a personal preference of mine in that the coated linen tape would be more durable.

Framerguy
 
Denny, this is exactly the same problem from another thread (Roz's?) about ATG not sticking to vinyl-wrapped frames. The Boxers are vinyl-wrapped - they're just not CHEAP vinyl wrapped.

I would try attaching the dust cover with white glue. Or, in many parts of the world, it's perfectly acceptable to seal the backing with tape instead of paper.

I don't know if Green Bay is one of those parts.
 
BTW, Denny, is that Coroplast you got from Midland clear or white or purple or what?

I am starting to rip the Coroplast off my workbenches to use for filler, so I think it's time to find a new local source.

I would email you, but I'm basically pretty lazy.
 
The VA sent me a pair of reading glasses after the eye operation. They were supposed to make it easier to read fine print and calibrations on my equipment.

I guess they weren't made for internet fine print because I completely missed that part of your post about the "Boxers" moulding!! :rolleyes:

(So glad that "eagle eye" Ron got you on the right track.)

I did do a Boxers shadowbox recently and had the same problem. I scuffed the plastic veneer with sandpaper and the ATG stuck but now I am wondering for how long??

Framerguy
 
Originally posted by Framerguy:
Denny,

First question, is the artist tape sticking to the frame?? If ATG didn't adhere to the back of the frame, ........
Framerguy
Framerguy, The vinyl does not cover the entire back of the frame. There is about 1/8" of exposed wood. I carefully followed the edge of the vinyl with the artist's tape and it's sticking pretty good.

Ron, The coroplast I got from Midland is white. I'm pretty sure it's the same as you have on your tables. The cost for two 4x8 sheets was $21.00. I picked them up at Midland.

I wouldn't mind trying the glue method on a smaller piece first. I guess I'll try roughing the edges and try ATG again.

Thanks for the responses.
 
Outside the box approach:

Start with two yards of inexpensive black fabric.

Turn under the edges as you stretch and staple it to the back of the frame.

If you're wondering how this will look, check out the underside of your couch.

Kit
 
Kit,
That's a great idea and would give a very nice finished look. Unfortunately, my quote didn't include the cost of a fabric dust cover. I already feel like I put in much more labor than I had figured on in my price. I'll have to make note of that for next time.

Thanks,
 
wouldn't worry too much about backintg it. Last Boxers we did came back in about six months when the paper unattached itself, Delamination comes to mind. Had to redo the whole thing at my cost.

Needless to say the Boxer samples wound up in Mr. Dumpster
 
Hmmm...A piece that size would be a good candidate for a door skin backing instead of paper. Door skin is an 1/8" plywood, luann usually, that comes 3'x7' and is easily cut with a mat knife. I would just staple it onto the back. It would really help stiffen up your shadow box. Cost is about $10 or less. Don't try to substitute masonite, it's not as stable as the plywood and tends to swell and bulge out over time.
 
While Mike & Frank were making their posts I was following Framerguy's advice on placing a dust cover. I simply took some fine grade sandpaper and ran it over the edge. I applied ATG by hand but as a precaution applied a second strip of ATG next to the first which would put it on the artist's tape. I placed the dust cover on and rubbed it down good. It looks real nice and like it might hold. I'll check it again tonight.

Thanks for the help,

PS, Do you put bump-ons on a piece this big? Where and how many?

[ 01-28-2004, 11:29 AM: Message edited by: Dancinbaer ]
 
Denny, yes, put some bumpers on it.

For one that big, bumpers that screw in or tack in might be better than stick-on. No reason to use more than two, since only two of 'em are going to touch the wall. (I always think it's optimistic when framers put bumpers on the TOP corners - as if any frame is going to hang that flush to the wall.) Put them near the bottom corners, but not right on the mitres if you use screw-on or nail-on.

You can get assorted heavy-duty bumpers from United but, if you're just going to use them occasionally, Menard's will work, too.
 
Originally posted by Ron Eggers:
I always think it's optimistic when framers put bumpers on the TOP corners - as if any frame is going to hang that flush to the wall.
I always use felt bumpers on the top corners of my frames that are being hung with hooks and wire, especially metal frames. The reason is not due to how the piece might touch the wall when it's hanging but how the top corner may scrape the wall while it's being hung up. Too often I've seen scratches or even gouges on walls where people will tip the frame while hanging in order to see the hook more easily. (And yes, I've done it myself!) The 5¢ it costs for prevention is worth it to me.
 
Thanks, Frank. It's only 7:30 a.m. here and already I've learned something new. What a great day!

Now I can go back to bed. :D
 
Okay, I didn't go back to bed, but I'm thinking about it.

Frank, when it comes to instillations, you are da man! I think you should write a book. I'd buy it in a second!

Better still, I'll be your agent, editor and prufwreader.
 
Originally posted by Ron Eggers:
Frank, when it comes to instillations, you are da man! I think you should write a book. I'd buy it in a second!

Better still, I'll be your agent, editor and prufwreader.
Actually I was thinking more along the idea of a DVD. I always wanted to be a TV star.....
 
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