Question Dust Cover Attachment

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alikat

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Joined
May 15, 2012
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Dallas, TX
Greetings Grumblers,

I do framing for a retail company, and I'm looking for a better method of dust cover attachment. I've been using rubber cement (gross) to match what the company's vendor had been using, and I've just tried out ATG tape and am not thrilled with the results. I did a forum search, and it looks like something called Franks Fabric Glue is popular . . . Is this a white glue?

I come from the world of bookbinding and paper conservation, so I'm in vaguely but not terribly familiar waters.

Thanks!
 
Run a bead of white pva or bookbinders glue around the frame and attach the dust cover, mist or dampen the dust cover a fraction first a lso over size the cover and trim when the glue is dry.

Welcome to the grumble.

Franks glue comes with a good pedigree.
 
Any white PVA glue will do the job, including Elmer's. Frank's and other fabric glues have a different formulation that allows them to be heat reactivated which can be helpful in attaching large dust covers. I use a similar product from one of the other fabric suppliers with good results.
I respectfully disagree with the practice of moistening the dust cover before attaching. It unneccessarily introduces humidity into the frame environment. I used to do that and the resulting drum tight dust cover was impressive. It also could exert enough force to leverage the face of the frame open on cretain profiles.
Frank's Fabrics is the name of the business and can be found through a Google search.

If you are doing preservation grade framing, you may also want to look at Lineco's dust cover papers. It is lignin free unlike all Craft paper products and is considered preservation grade.
 
That "glue-riter" looks pretty cool . . .

This is not preservation framing in any way, shape, or form. I have been spraying out the cover paper, as the design team loves the drum-tight effect.
 
Hey Jim Miller or David L,

If one "mists" or dampens the dust cover, would points be deducted for the MCPF?

I thought current "generally accepted practice" (CPF, MCPF or otherwise) frowns on added moisture when attaching a dust cover.
 
Rob Markoff said:
Hey Jim Miller or David L,

If one "mists" or dampens the dust cover, would points be deducted for the MCPF?

I thought current "generally accepted practice" (CPF, MCPF or otherwise) frowns on added moisture when attaching a dust cover.
Click to expand...

The score sheet doesn't specifically mention dampening the dust cover or not. The examiners wouldn't know when looking at the frames unless it was listed on the framing description form. I'd probably knock a point or two off, but it wouldn't be enough to fail someone unless they had done a lot of other things wrong.


The following is solely the opinion of FramerDave and is not meant to reflect the guidelines or recommendations of the PPFA or any other group or organization:

I don't see it as a big deal. Yes, in theory you are introducing moisture into the frame package. However we're talking about minute amounts of water that will evaporate by the time you get the dust cover trimmed, bumpers put on and hanging hardware installed. Also, it's going to take the path of least resistance and evaporate up into the air, not seep down into the frame. Even so, I rarely bother with it since I just don't see it as being necessary. I can get a dustcover on pretty smooth without it.
 
I've been misting for nearly fifty years so I guess you can just call me Mr. Mister.

:shutup:
 
To cut the dustcover evenly and easily, I use an old blade from either my wall or matboard cutter. Hod that between your thumb and index finger and run your index finger along the edge if the frame. I've found that if one uses a ruler there is always the danger that it may slip and you may damage the side of the frame.

Hope that helps

Michele
 
kuluchicken said:
To cut the dustcover evenly and easily, I use an old blade from either my wall or matboard cutter.
Hod that between your thumb and index finger and run your index finger along the edge if the frame. I've found that if one uses a ruler there is always the danger that it may slip and you may damage the side of the frame.
Click to expand...

That surprises me. I've found that if you aren't using a sharp blade, it sometimes tears the dust cover - and it isn't as safe as a sharp blade. I change the blade for cutting my dust cover as often as the blade in my mat or wall cutter.

I was taught a long time ago in a cooking class that there are more cutting injuries from dull knives (extra pressure to cut things) than sharp knives. I think the same is true in our biz and our tools. "Sharper is safer" - Google that for more.

As one site says:

A sharp knife is safer than a dull knife. A dull knife can slip off food and cut the user. The excessive force needed to make a dull knife cut causes the user to lose control, i.e. the knife can 'break out' of the material being cut and cause injury. A sharp knife requires little force, so it's easier to control and cuts where intended. The user is more likely to treat a sharp knife carefully.

BTW, I use one of these trimming knives. I can do it free hand (except I use an x-acto knife rather than a blade) like you do, but I get better results with a trimming knife.

2001.jpg
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Larry Peterson said:
That surprises me. I've found that if you aren't using a sharp blade, it sometimes tears the dust cover - and it isn't as safe as a sharp blade. I change the blade for cutting my dust cover as often as the blade in my mat or wall cutter.
Click to expand...


I use a sharp new blade but do cut free hand with the blade held between thumb and forefinger also.

I have found that if you hone / strap the blade the way the old time barbers did that it will stay sharp longer. Since I don't have a leather strap handy, I strap the blade against the slip sheet on my CMC or a piece of kraft paper on my work bench and it lasts much longer.
 
I have one of those red trimming gizmos and find it to be perfectly awful at its appointed task - if the back edge of the frame has even a slight rounded aspect, the danged thing tracks over the side and scratches the edge of the frame.

Sharp #12 blade - hand-held. easy peasy (but I have been doing it for 42 years!). :thumbsup:
 
Misting

Dampening the backing paper can give the frame a very snug look, but it can also introduce moisture into the frame, as Wally noted, which is always unwelcome. The tight paper, along with brads stitiched through gray board, held many an undernourished frame together, in the first half of the 20th Century, but as the paper weakened those frames showed their true strength. A white PVA or EVA glue will hold, long after a pressure-sensitive adhesive has oxidized and failed.




Hugh
 
Thanks for all the helpful advice guys!

The dust covers I'm doing are purely for aesthetic reasons - the company feels that this is what picture frames should look like, so neatness is my primary concern. I'd just as soon sand off the edges of the paper, but they like straight lines.

I picked up some generic white glue, and as I feared, I'm getting some wrinkling. What's my answer here - a tackier, more "pure" PVA?
 
3M 924 tape works fine for Less
 
alikat said:
Thanks for all the helpful advice guys!

The dust covers I'm doing are purely for aesthetic reasons - the company feels that this is what picture frames should look like, so neatness is my primary concern. I'd just as soon sand off the edges of the paper, but they like straight lines.

I picked up some generic white glue, and as I feared, I'm getting some wrinkling. What's my answer here - a tackier, more "pure" PVA?
Click to expand...


Apply a thin bead (1/16"), and smooth out with finger (this also depends on the porousity of the wood. more porous, more glue). Any more glue than that and you get wrinkling. Apply paper and using a burnishing tool (I use a folding bone), smooth the paper onto the glue so the excess glue would be forced to the outside. The fabric glues have a bit more open time than the over the counter PVAs and are more viscous.
Hint: I get 4 oz. squeeze bottles from my vetrinarian that work great for glue application.
 
alikat said:
Thanks for all the helpful advice guys!

The dust covers I'm doing are purely for aesthetic reasons - the company feels that this is what picture frames should look like, so neatness is my primary concern. I'd just as soon sand off the edges of the paper, but they like straight lines.

I picked up some generic white glue, and as I feared, I'm getting some wrinkling. What's my answer here - a tackier, more "pure" PVA?
Click to expand...

I use Frank's Fabric Adhesive laying down a bead then smoothing it to the edge with my finger. Take the lightly misted paper and apply it to the back smoothing around fully. I then take an iron and iron the edge. I have a handheld cordless Oreck iron that almost instantly heats up so it takes little to no time.

Sometimes I still sand the excess paper off but mostly use a sharp razor blade now. Afterwards I sometimes take a marker along the back edge to make it nice and clean.

I agree that when a client sees the back well done it inspires more confidence that the work inside is also done with careful diligence.
 
Cool - I think I'll pick myself up a little craft iron.

Freehand razor bladers: are you cutting directly on the back of the frame? Turning the frame right-side up and trimming along the edge? I'm having a hard time visualizing this.
 
alikat said:
Cool - I think I'll pick myself up a little craft iron.

Freehand razor bladers: are you cutting directly on the back of the frame? Turning the frame right-side up and trimming along the edge? I'm having a hard time visualizing this.
Click to expand...


Turn the frame over/back facing up. At least two options
  1. You can cut directly on back side of frame approx 1/8" in from edge, thus exposing a little of that wood.
  2. The way I do it, hold the blade at about a 30-45 angle and allow it to touch edge of frame using that edge as a guide while you pull the blade. If the blade is held at the proper angle you will not cut into frame. Simple once you get the hang of it.
 
I hold the blade at an angle and just run it down the edge of the frame using my little finger as a brace against the back of the frame. It cuts flush to the frame edge.

I hate the look of a dustcover cut in from the edge of the frame. That is also why I really like using a sanding block and sanding off the excess and then running a good wet marker down the edge. The dust cover becomes one with the frame then. It's kind of a Zen thing. ;)
 
Soooooo......

Hugh says no to ATG.

Less says yes to 3M 924.

I have done 99% of my dust covers with the ATG method. Glue takes so much more time. But done properly I can see it's benefits. I should probably switch over, but habits are hard to break.

Taking apart old dust covers done with ATG seems to reveal that this method will hold well over a reasonable amount of time. But if I put a piece in our shop front window, and the warming sun strikes it from behind, (we have a corner window) it will loosen the edges of the tape. Even if it's been burnished. Now this more than likely will not happen in a home but it still concerns me.

Just an observation. But it would be interesting to know the percentage that do tape to glue.

Oh yeah, I used to mist also until I was shown a trick that eliminates the need.
 
alikat said:
The dust covers I'm doing are purely for aesthetic reasons - the company feels that this is what picture frames should look like, so neatness is my primary concern. I'd just as soon sand off the edges of the paper, but they like straight lines.

I picked up some generic white glue, and as I feared, I'm getting some wrinkling. What's my answer here - a tackier, more "pure" PVA?
Click to expand...
If the bead of glue you lay down is thin enough and you press the backing paper firmly, the glue should “squish” down and spread enough so that when the glue dries, it should be reasonable wrinkle free.

I would suggest you buy a Trim Knife from United MFRs (#2805 or 4568). They are cheap and the blades easily replaced. You’ll get a nice straight cut without worrying about a straight edge slipping or slicing off a finger doing it free hand. No need for sandpaper and risk damaging the frame’s finish.

Larson-Juhl has Trim Knives, too, but I prefer United’s #2805.

Welcome to The Grumble.
 
Bill Henry- said:
I would suggest you buy a Trim Knife from United MFRs (#2805 or 4568). They are cheap and the blades easily replaced. You’ll get a nice straight cut without worrying about a straight edge slipping or slicing off a finger doing it free hand. No need for sandpaper and risk damaging the frame’s finish.
Click to expand...

Does this give a closer trim than the red doohickey I've been using? This is leaving me with a quarter inch margin, which I don't mind - reminds me a book's squares, but some of the paper invariably stays stuck and needs to be scraped off.
 
Just an observation. When doing a drum back tight paper it is much easier for you or the customer to put a finger through it when picking it up, unless you of course also fill the back flush to frame. We've had discussions (sometimes heated) about this before.
 
alikat said:
Does this give a closer trim than the red doohickey I've been using? This is leaving me with a quarter inch margin, which I don't mind - reminds me a book's squares, but some of the paper invariably stays stuck and needs to be scraped off.
Click to expand...
I'm not familiar with the "red doohickey" (just the green one :) ), but these trim knives take you to within about an 1/8" of the edge. They have a little "fence" near the blade which guarantees a perfect straight trimmed edge without the need for a ruler. Very easy to use.
 
Tommy P., so I guess you're not going share your trick??? Inquiring minds want to know.
 
Sticky fingers

Less thinks framed art should be pulled apart, inspected and cleaned every ten to fifteen years anyway. A little UnSeal soaked tape will release relatively easily. Less does not enjoy trying to remove backing paper and installing new paper that has been glued.
 
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