Help dust and plexi

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audrey r

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I am about to begin assembling 25 matted photographs. The mats are 4 inches wide and black. Overall size is 24 x 28. I am using uv plexi and I am concerned about bits of dust getting caught between mat and plexi. I usually use an air purifier to help keep the air clean and work quickly to remove the cover on the plexi and finish the assembly. But with so many pieces, I am afraid that I am going to go crazy with little specks on the black mat.

Any suggestions would be tremendously appreciated!!

Thanks.
 
white mats...
The issue is static. You can get a deionization gun and use that on the acrylic glazing, or you can use cleaning materials that do not produce static like a real chamois and deionized water.
I keep a spray bottle of Brillianize around to clean acrylic before assembling the frames. It reduces the static and hardens the finish of the acrylic...kinda like waxing your car. The microfiber cloths are also effective in cleaning with the Brillianize. We do a goodly amount of framing with acrylic and this product has worked well for us.
 
I got an anti-static mat that I stand on and also an anti-static brush. Both are grounded to reduce static. That conbination did wonders for me. I had not used plexi much befor we moved out here and we are doing all the custome framing for the gift shop at the museum here in town and they require plexie on all of their products.
The first frame I did for them took me almost 2 days to get the dust out. Would see one piece ina nd get that out and 2 went in on it, this drove me nust. Got the mat and brush and cuded that head ach.

The brush you can get from united and they may h ave the mat or I got it from uline.
 
I have had good luck with Plexus, from West Marine. Knocks down the static and helps prevent flubs from sticking to the plexi.
 
You don't say what kind of acrylic you are using (paper or film masked) but here are some solutions that will make life easier.

1. Cover your fitting area with either a sheet of coroplast or 3 mill poly sheeting.
Wipe the coroplast down with a damp cloth or better yet, Brillianize. Work on top of a sheet of coroplast or poly sheeting - Kraft Paper or Carpeted work tbles are trouble looking for a place to happen. I also like working on silicone release boards.

2. If you are using paper masked acrylic, wipe the paper down with a damp cloth before rolling off the masking paper. This will cut down on dust and will reduce static.

3. Avoid wiping the acrylic with anything that is not treated with Brillianize (i.e. don't just "dust it off" with a cloth.) Microfiber cloths work well and have less lint.

4. Peel the making on once side, clean, place the clean side down on the art and peel the other side. Get it into the frame as soon as possible - don't clean a bunch and stack up to fit. Fit them as you go along.

5. Use a tube from fabric to roll off the masking paper. Rolling it off is easier and will build up less static.

6. If you have to get a piece of dust out, the lower you can keep the acryilc and "fish" out the piece, the better. Lifting up the full piece will suck all sorts of stuff in. Be sure to use Brillianize on the face before opening up a peice to reduce static. I find a cotton swab (like a Q Tip) attached to a piece of spacer makes a great fishing tool.

7. Sometimes there is a "law of diminishing returns" on dust removal. It may create more dust trying to remove a very small speck.
 
Kinetronics makes some nice products. I do a fair amount of plexi, and the de-ionizing gun is my good buddy.
 
I love my Kinetronics ionizing gun, and there are other brands available. It absolutely eliminates static. All the other provisions only diminish the static charge, but do not completely eliminate it, as the ionizing gun does.

Maybe it's not appropriate for this job, but when you want to use acrylic without static issues, use optically-coated Optium Acrylic or Museum Optium Acrylic.

Both of these almost-invisible acrylic glazing products are anti-static and carry no static charge. Sure they cost more, but when they are appropriate, they are well worth the money.
 
Thank you all for the advice. I have several purchases to make - with brillianize at the top of the list!

I am using paper masked acrylic - and I am a bit embarrassed to admit this, but the way I was taught was to roll the paper off and immediately flip it over on to the artwork - and then remove the paper on the other side. I didn't clean it first, as, of course, I would with glass.

The consensus seems to be that I should be cleaning it first - correct?

Thanks again!
 
audrey r said:
The consensus seems to be that I should be cleaning it first - correct?
Click to expand...

Not necessarily - though there is a bit of "residue" when you remove the paper that makes the surface a bit "grabby" so if there is dust, it is harder to remove.
 
Before you take the paper off, slightly bevel all 8 edges at 45° with a sharp steel edge (like a pair of scissors opened up) This will get rid of the saw burr that lives on the edges. Then wipe down both sides and of course the edges with a damp cloth. This will get rid of the burr dust and kill the static. I would also recommend "Tape Sealing" around the edge of the whole plastic-art-backing package at this point. This will eliminate any new dust getting into the package.

As you wipe stuff down - don't wipe briskly as this will create static.
 
Black matts and plexi??

Seriously I would refuse to do this.

In my opinion, between trying to keep dust away and avoiding scratching the plexi you are headed for a frustrating couple of days trying to do the impossible.

Best case scenario will be an indifferent job. Worst case involves men in white coats and strong medication in a padded room.

Life is too short for this.
 
Micro fiber cloths are very helpful, here, since they will not put a charge on, once the acrylic is clean. A little bit of water on such a cloth should be enough to get it clean, with nothing left on the surface of the glazing and taping should keep it that way.


Hugh
 
This is the one type of job I would not be using cotton gloves on, they contain loads of lint and stray fiber.
 
it will drive you crazy---that's what you signed on for, isn't it???:cry:

if all your materials have been cut/joined/stacked up.....AND you can close for a day....vacuum to dickens the evening before you go home(this includes ALL the floors/doors work surface areas around where you will be working). if your heatsystem has a timer---prevent it's working from early morning until later in the day when everything is buttoned up(not easy when its cold as you have)---need to keep everything from moving around in the air.

try to NOT walk around more than absolutely needed(back door to the work table only). Dont wear wool things(sweaters/mittens). You will STILL have stuff in the packages BUT you wont begin to have to number that you would if you dont do these things. inspect each frameing(minutely) before you tape it up(glazing to art/backer to again, elim the most problems), when all are 'combined/taped' and before you put into frames give it an even closer inspection---correct the ones you find(and you WILL find some), when finished with this chore, turn of the heat!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and sit down with a good cuppa, then finish the job(inspecting each one -again-as you put it into frame--you're apt to find another on or 2 that needs fixing):icon45: finish them up and go HOME and RELAX and forget about them till tomorrow(when you will repeat the inspection routine:smileyshot22:--better you find them than the cust!). LOL
 
This is a new customer. She had already done photos with the black mat and really liked the look. I tried to get her to switch to white/white moulding, but she felt strongly. The gallery that these will be hanging in insists on plexi, so I had no sway on that point.

I suspect that I'll be crazy by the end of this, I'll keep you posted.

Thanks again for all the helpful hints!
 
I suspect that I'll be crazy by the end of this, I'll keep you posted.
Click to expand...

Crazy? Nah.

Black mats and acrylic may be a more-difficult-than-usual combination to fit dust-free, but after you resolve to do it right and refine your fitting techniques, you'll be able to deal with it successfully.

When extra work is involved, perhaps an added fitting-preparation charge would be appropriate.
 
I used to inflict black mattes under plexi on my own artwork. I grew out of it pretty quick.

Anyhoo the surest solution I found was to just wipe down the plex both sides with Novus #1 polish. I used those lint-free, blue Scott shop paper towels. Had to wipe it down, then polish it to leave no streaks. Used clean cotton bath towels on the table for support. Took a few minutes but absolutely killed the static charge on the plex and when the plex was laid on the art the static charge seemed to dissipate there too. The anti stat effect seemed to last a really long time, such as through moving and handling and hanging.
 
audrey r said:
I'm surprised about using the bath towels - didn't you pick up pieces of cotton lint from them?

Thanks.
Click to expand...
For whatever reason, no! Not that I deserve it, either. I always use the same set of towels for this so I think they have absorbed a certain amount of whatever stuff it is that zaps the static. But even when they have just been washed there's no lint problem, either...maybe it's the anti-static laundry sheets in the dryer.
 
Thanks to all who offered advice. I've just about finished the job (20 of 22 done!) I ran my air purifier, vacuumed, wore anti-static gloves, used an anti-static cloth and brillianize. All of this helped tremendously. But the final step of taping the sides was key. Without this final step, you're pretty much guaranteed to have specks inside by the time you get the whole package completed. But the taping allows you to finish the job without worrying that each movement is sending flecks between the acrylic and the mat/art. I added one easy step. When you are ready to seal/tape the sides, put a piece of scrap mat on top of the plexi and a heavy weight on top of it. This way, the plexi and mat are tightly held together while you tape.

I still had to take a few apart after I thought I was done, but all in all, it wasn't nearly as bad as I expected.

Final thought....next time I'll definitely add to my plexi pricing because of the time needed to do the job right.

Thanks again!
 
I still had to take a few apart after I thought I was done


well, of COURSE you did!!!!!!!!!! :thumbsup:
 
Now that you have finished the job, here is another hint. A Post-it note wrapped backwards on a scrap rod of matboard makes a good grabber when you go fishing for flumbs. The adhesive will grab the flumb and not leave adhesive residue behind.
 
I have never been a fan of "dust sealing". It seems to be standard procedure at big boxes, like Aaron brothers & Michaels.
 
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