Question Drymount time/temp for mat to F/C

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Sherry Lee

SGF, Supreme Grumble Framer
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This is for a jersey substrate.

I'm going to drymount the matboard to the foamcore. We have the "Big Red" Hot Press vacuum press.

I assume maximum negative pressure. HOW LONG and WHAT TEMP?

Thank you, thank you!
 
Oh, I expected some smart answers! ;) Thank you for not disappointing me! :)

The very reason I asked is because I have no way of knowing if the center is 'done' and I don't want it seperating on me...or the customer!
 
Suede substrate

Just thought about this.......for a garment of any kind, if the customer chose suede matboard and I want to attach it to the foamcore, I can't do it with this (above) method .... drymount, right?

So it would be ATG'd and white glued together, correct? Should never seperate, right??
 
I always do this for jerseys because it becomes like Gator and there is no worry of warping. I recently did an extra large baseball jacket autographed by Reba MacIntyre which was very heavy and had no concern for future issues.
 
You should be using Kool Tack to drymount your matboard to the foamboard. It works in 20 seconds, on about 160 to 170. It is the best product i've seen.
 
I agree that Kool Tack is a very good dry mounting method for general purposes. It works quite well to mount a typical paper print in 20 seconds at 150-160 degrees F, especially when used with a preheated Perma Lon release board.

But in order for the heat to penetrate a 4-ply matboard enough to activate the adhesive in such a short dwell time, I suggest preheating the 4-ply board to the press temperature before placing it in contact with the Kool Tack board.

If the board to be mounted is 32x40, then instead of using the Perma Lon release board, just cover the assembled dry mount package with a sheet of Kraft paper.

Otherwise, dry mounting a room-temperature 4-ply board without pre-heating would surely require a longer dwell time, perhaps a couple of minutes; or a higher press temperature, which could damage the bond of a low-temperature adhesive, and may compress a foam center board.
 
Sherry, I know you have some of that gallon of Frank's adhesive left. Roll lay, flip and roll and lay a piece of flaw board or mount board. Now you have a sandwich that pre stressed and wont warp.
Stick in vac heat... 175 for 10 minutes and it will be dry and ready to go.
 
MAKE A SANDWICH???

Baer Charlton said:
Sherry, I know you have some of that gallon of Frank's adhesive left. Roll lay, flip and roll and lay a piece of flaw board or mount board. Now you have a sandwich that pre stressed and wont warp.
Stick in vac heat... 175 for 10 minutes and it will be dry and ready to go.
Click to expand...


NOW YOU PIPE IN!! ;) ;) ;)

Yep....had a tad left, thank you! :) I rolled it onto the back of a 32 x 40 matboard - rolled as fast as a rabbit being chased by a coyote - because it was drying as fast as I rolled (NO HUMIDITY HERE)! I put it on a piece foamboard with release film on top at 185 x 8 minutes. It was dry, but warped. Did 3 of them then weighted all of them x 16 hours = not much help! But a quart of Franks adhesive is GONE!

It made a nice strong substrate, though warped.

Is there anything wrong with attaching a mat board to foam board by using 3M889 tape with PVA spotted inbetween - place in vacuum press the same?

THANKS! Moi
 
Sherry Lee said:
Is there anything wrong with attaching a mat board to foam board by using 3M889 tape with PVA spotted inbetween - place in vacuum press the same?
Click to expand...

Under weight or vacuum, spots of PVA would work. Spots of fabric adhesive probably would work, too.

A thin layer of SureMount or VacuGlue 300 would also do the job under vacuum for about 10 minutes. In order to eliminate warping, blot away most of the paste using a sheet of Kraft paper before joining the boards

But skip the tape. 3M #889 certainly is more costly than any water-based adhesive.
 
Thanks Jim!

Jim Miller said:
Under weight or vacuum, spots of PVA would work. Spots of fabric adhesive probably would work, too.

A thin layer of SureMount or VacuGlue 300 would also do the job under vacuum for about 10 minutes. In order to eliminate warping, blot away most of the paste using a sheet of Kraft paper before joining the boards

But skip the tape. 3M #889 certainly is more costly than any water-based adhesive.
Click to expand...

THANK YOU JIM! To know I don't have to cover that entire sheet is a GOOD THING!! It's just tough getting it all covered before the first part of the application already dries (here in AZ).

I just imagine that using "spots" of the mentioned pastes/glues/adhesives would cut down on warpage as well....and go a lot faster!

Merci!!
 
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