Dressing-out the back of a framed oil

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Z David

Z David

MGF, Master Grumble Framer
Joined
Mar 8, 2010
Posts
944
Loc
Texas
I just framed this oil for a customer, which includes a silk liner. It turned out well (and I had to stretch the canvas too). But as you may be able to tell from the side view, it looks a bit unsightly! It's 1 inch proud (to use a term I read once before here on the G) out the back. The frame only has a depth of 3/4 of an inch. I used mat board as a dust cover over the back of the oil only. I would have also used kraft paper but because of how narrow the frame is and the "proud" distance out the back it would have been difficult and rather sloppy looking wrapping it over everything. It wouldn't stick-out on most people's walls (as they don't typically have an Arakawa hanging system). But... would a top notch framer do something better to dress out the back or edge in this situation?


Becka's oil.jpgBecka's oil side view.jpg
 
Using a black Kraft paper, cambric or Tyvek dust cover would help some. The canvas and liner will still stick out the back, but it will look neater at least and the black will help things sort of blend into the shadows. Then be sure to use two hooks instead of just one to hang it. It looks like you left plenty of slack on the wire; two hooks will support it better and help hold it a bit closer to the wall. In the future, consider using an inexpensive black frame as an extension on the back. Failing that, a wider frame will help hide the bumpy stuff better. Sorry for the block of text but for some reason I can't use the enter key to start a new paragraph. Maybe IE 8 doesn't like the Grumble?
 
use a cheap frame that matches the finish of your frame and line the back edge of the frame with it, making the original frame deep enought to hide the canvas on the back :)
 
The obvious solution is to choose a moulding that is deep enough to contain the artwork. Obvious but not always easy, as frame manufacturers don't make very many such mouldings.

The alternative is to build out the back of the moulding with another moulding, to make the entire frame deep enough. It doesn't have to be expensive, but you should charge the customer for the materials and labor involved. You can paint the buildout black or some other color that will blend with the primary moulding.
 
As suggested above, adding another frame on the back of the existing moulding could provide sufficient depth. That could be a matching moulding, or perhaps the same moulding turned vertically, or another finish that blends with the frame. Sometimes I use a matte black frame or build a "back box" out of dimension lumber, such as 1/2" x 3/4", and paint it.

That is, add more depth to the frame assembly, in order to contain the full thickness of the frame package.
 
Thanks to everyone for the advice.

I went ahead and put a heavy grade gray paper on the back... and it looks a lot better (although rather bumpy with all of the hardware).

The customer (a college girl) was wanting to keep the price down, and I was already helping her a lot in that regard since she is the daughter of a friend of my wife.
However, in the future I will at least discuss the depth issues with the customer... and advocate for adding an inexpensive frame as an extension for the back.

BTW... a curious side note: the oils on the canvas were still tacky and off-gasing when the girl brought this in.
I laid it open for a couple of weeks to dry better before stretching and framing.

Z
 
Jim,

I was thinking along the same lines, as far as keeping some trim wood in stock to paint and build-out the back... when appropriate!



Z
 
Z David said:
BTW... a curious side note: the oils on the canvas were still tacky and off-gasing when the girl brought this in.
I laid it open for a couple of weeks to dry better before stretching and framing.

Z
Click to expand...
With a fresh oil like that, it could easily end up sticking to the rabbet. When a framer down the road tries to remove it, the stuck paint can come off and damage the painting. An easy/cost effective way to deal with that is to cut strips of 8-ply mat to the thickness of the stretcher bars plus a good 1/8" or more. Staple them around the outside edge of the stretched canvas, pinwheel style. The strips will hold the painted surface away from the rabbet/lip of the frame. Just make sure you account for the strips when measuring for your frame.
 
Z David said:
But... would a top notch framer do something better to dress out the back or edge in this situation?

View attachment 16986View attachment 16987
Click to expand...

I address this in advance with the customer while they are choosing frames. I let them know how much it will stick off, and discuss its room placement, etc. Otherwise, they'd be somewhat right to be upset over the "stick-off". Customers are unaware of this stuff unless we tell them. You can always give the option of it being open-back, and using black kraft paper on the back and cut out the paper where the canvas is exposed to avoid any misunderstanding that the canvas is protected, and to allow the hooks to rest within the cavity behind the art as well.
 
cjmst3k said:
I address this in advance with the customer while they are choosing frames. I let them know how much it will stick off, and discuss its room placement, etc. Otherwise, they'd be somewhat right to be upset over the "stick-off". Customers are unaware of this stuff unless we tell them. .
Click to expand...

And sometimes customers don't like the frame leaning off of the wall, [from the side view] even if the moulding is deep enough.

I had a customer that called and said she "loved the framing of the print, but it was crooked, but the mat in the frame was fine". I didn't understand what she meant, so I went to her house [also I could then see other artwork, and suggest reframing, etc...], and she was upset the top of the frame was about 3/8" from the wall, while the bottom of the frame was almost touching the wall. This happened because I used wire.

Solution of Wall Buddies solved the problem, because then the width from the wall was equal on the top, bottom, and sides.

I now talk about hanging too!
 
Z David said:
I went ahead and put a heavy grade gray paper on the back... and it looks a lot better (although rather bumpy with all of the hardware).
Click to expand...
If that appearance is OK, then I would suggest cutting strips of flawboard (scrap matboard) to fit over the hardware and cover the gaps. These strips will fit at an angle on each side, and you can roughly "miter" the corners so the strips fit somewhat neatly. Also trim a final backing of flawboard, the edges of which can be taped to the strips. Perfection is not necessary in the fit. Then put the dustcover paper over the strips and backing board, all of which provides a solid backing under the paper. And no hardware bumps.
 
A lot of artists seem to use 'gallery wrap' type canvases nowadays. Maybe because they are cheap. They can create problems with framing if the canvas is small-ish and they want a scooped frame with a liner. I frequently have to remount them on 'normal' depth bars.

There is a plain moulding I get which is actually intended as a liner. About 20mm thick, 40mm wide, flat with a bevel. It's very handy sometimes to use it as an extender on the back of frames. Mitered with the bevel pointing out. You can take the edge of the bevel to the outside of the frame. Painted black, it disguises any untidiness visible from the side.
 
prospero said:
A lot of artists seem to use 'gallery wrap' type canvases nowadays. Maybe because they are cheap. They can create problems with framing if the canvas is small-ish and they want a scooped frame with a liner. I frequently have to remount them on 'normal' depth bars.

There is a plain moulding I get which is actually intended as a liner. About 20mm thick, 40mm wide, flat with a bevel. It's very handy sometimes to use it as an extender on the back of frames. Mitered with the bevel pointing out. You can take the edge of the bevel to the outside of the frame. Painted black, it disguises any untidiness visible from the side.
Click to expand...

For those of us who can't visualize, do you do photos?
 
Thank you. Perfectly illustrated, and an idea that I will gladly steal. Appreciate the effort.
 
One thing that may help with the Arakawa tilting forward is putting small open screw eyes into the back of the frame near the top, where the cable crosses the top rail. You can hook the cable into the open screw eyes and It'll hold the top of the frame closer to the wall. We just use regular tiny screw eyes and cut a little less than a quarter of the circle off with small bolt cutters or wire cutters.

James
 
I too would highly recommend RabbetSpace. :)

Of course I would! Call me if you want a sample.
 
Greg... I guess I didn't have my thinking cap on! I had your FrameSpace and didn't think to use it. I went with eye screws thru the side of the liner and reg. screws holding it to the frame... and then offset screws to hold the stretched canvas to the liner. The FrameSpace would have been quicker and neater! As you can tell... I'm still learning... hopefully I'll know better next time.

I did as Jim suggested using flawboard angled on the edges covered with the grey paper to finish out the back.

And thank you Lafontsee for the idea to improve the Arakawa tilt... I will try that!


Z
 
Z-David. I like your style. You fit in well here.

:thumbsup:
 
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