Design Counters

[FrameMakers]

I am in the process of designing and building a new design counter. This is what I have come up with so far. It is 12' long and 36" high.

I am thinking of something in a antique black or ebonized finish. All the elements are commonly available at Lowes and not very expensive. These items include bead board, spindles, casing and base board. I am also thinking of installing a brass rail.

The rear of the unit will have storage for small to medium sized finished work in vertical slots as well as a shelf for my printer and supplies, cash drawer & a single file cabinet.

Now for the questions

If you had the chance to do it over again, what would your perfect design counter look like?

What do you have for your counter surface and what would you have if you were doing it over?

What is the depth of your counter and do you like it?

What is on top of your counter? (when it is cleaned off of all the corner samples )

Do you keep your mat samples on top of the counter or somewhere else?

Show me a picture of you design counter please.

 

[CB Art & Framing]

Put it on wheels.

 

[osgood]

Mine has two sets of plan drawers one on top of other, 10 in each, so it's 43" high. The drawers are used to hold art waiting to be framed.

There is a 6ft x 4ft mirror at 45 degrees to the top of the counter, so the extra height of the counter top is an advantage. Customers can step back from the counter and see their art, mats and chevrons from a distance as if they are hanging on the wall, in the mirror. The counter is against the wall with the front of the drawers in view so it's not very attractive, but quite practical.

Your design looks stupendous, Dave!

 

[Rick Bergeron - CPF]

Now for the questions

If you had the chance to do it over again, what would your perfect design counter look like?

What do you have for your counter surface (gray carpet) and what would you have if you were doing it over? something slick, maybe glass over gray carpet.


What is the depth of your counter and do you like it? 48" and yes we loved it

What is on top of your counter? (when it is cleaned off of all the corner samples ) Corner sample rack x 3 tiers

Do you keep your mat samples on top of the counter or somewhere else?

Show me a picture of you design counter please. Nothing near as fancy as your design but we did carpet the sides to match the new carpet floor runner. Remnant classy casino carpet that we paid to have the edges seamed, serged or whatever you call it.

When we moved, we brought our existing counters and built a 3rd. The 3rd received 95% of the use and was significantly shorter... in the 28" tall neighborhood. Customers seemed to like the shorter version better.

 

[Markoc]

Put it on wheels.

I like the wheels idea but make them locking. My clients are always leaning on mine and pushing them. I had to drill a hole in the wheels to semi-lock them in place.

 

[JWB9999999]

What do you have for your counter surface and what would you have if you were doing it over?

Indoor/outdoor carpet. I know plenty of people don't like carpet on the counter, but I do. I just re-carpeted it about 4 months ago for the first time in more than 6 years. We use the space to aid us when framing oversize items. The carpet helps to prevent frame damage with the frame is face down. It also softly absorbs the blows that customers inflict on the counter when tossing stuff down and around on it.

What is the depth of your counter and do you like it?

48" deep. We store scrap mats in bins under it, so it has to be at least 40" for those. However it would be fine if it were only 42" deep I think.

What is on top of your counter? (when it is cleaned off of all the corner samples )

2 sales computers, some small gift items, and our shrinkwrap machine towards one end. Half the counter is empty sales space. About 1/6 of the counter serves as a third workstation, at one end of it. (My main front counter is approx 24' long.) The empty sales area also doubles as a temporary place for putting fresh cut frame rails. As I cut them in my saw room, I stick them in bundles on the counter until my employees have a chance to properly wrap them for storage.

Do you keep your mat samples on top of the counter or somewhere else?

We keep them on a 2nd counter/work area immediately behind our front sales counter. They are not in reach of customers (a good thing in my opinion), but they are in easy reach for us while we are working with customers at the front counter.

The only real negative about my counters is their height. They are 38" tall. Customers often find that they are uncomfortably high for viewing their framing selections. If it were up to me, I would have built them no higher than 34".

 

[Prospero]

Ormond. 43" high? That's about nose-level on some of my customers.

I've got 2 plan cabinets back-to-back, away from the wall so you can walk all around. It's about 6ft x 4ft. Only 34" high though. Bit of short pile carpet on top.

 

[Artrageous]

I am in the process of designing and building a new design counter. This is what I have come up with so far. It is 12' long and 36" high.

These items include bead board, spindles, casing and base board. I am also thinking of installing a brass rail.

Dave, add these to your design table (functioning of course). Promote a happy hour frame special.

 

[FrameMakers]

My current counter is 42" deep and feels a bit too wide. I was thinking of backing it down to 36"-38". Still undecided on this though. Might keep it the same so I can reuse much of the existing innards.

 

[i-m-chickie]

Dave, if it comes out half as purty as your plans, I will take 2!

Drawers...I built my counter, that I use presently, and would place WAY more storage space!!! It has a file cabinet built in...so not enough.

I had beadboard on the front, and carpeted after. Anybody that has been to my short knows every inch is used.

Peter, 43" high customers...you frame for gnomes?? or children? or specialize with short framing??

 

[Barb Pelton]

I am in the process of designing and building a new design counter. This is what I have come up with so far. It is 12' long and 36" high.

I am thinking of something in a antique black or ebonized finish. All the elements are commonly available at Lowes and not very expensive. These items include bead board, spindles, casing and base board. I am also thinking of installing a brass rail.

The rear of the unit will have storage for small to medium sized finished work in vertical slots as well as a shelf for my printer and supplies, cash drawer & a single file cabinet.

Now for the questions

If you had the chance to do it over again, what would your perfect design counter look like? Mine is very similar in dimensions to what you have laid out here, and I think mine would be nicer if it were deeper than 36".

What do you have for your counter surface and what would you have if you were doing it over? Now, it's a very neutral grayish Formica. I'd pick something a little more contemporary now, maybe poured concrete. I have had trouble with my current formica messing with my visualization camera; it seems it is too close to the color of the gray board required with the system.

What is the depth of your counter and do you like it? 36" and I think it is a little too shallow

What is on top of your counter? (when it is cleaned off of all the corner samples ) computer monitor and a rack of handmade earrings. At the other end, a floral arrangement. The other counter is the same except it has a rack of car coasters instead of earrings, and a spinner at the other end of our frame package mouldings.

Do you keep your mat samples on top of the counter or somewhere else? 3 tiered rolling rack that can roll to either counter

Show me a picture of you design counter please.

No pic tonight, I am at home. Love the ebony bead board. Nice!

 

[CAGallery]

Your design looks very nice!

If you had the chance to do it over again, what would your perfect design counter look like?

We have been very happy with our counter for many years and there are only a few things we would do differently.

The counter is in three separate pieces which made it easier to move but it was still very heavy. We finally installed hidden heavy duty wheels and would recommend doing that from the start.

The main thing we would change is to make sure there is some sort of an overhang or accommodation so customers can sit on bar stools comfortably.

We have drawers, storage and cubbyholes in the counter -- we would probably make more drawers and less cubbyholes and storage as for the most part we just walk it into our workshop and put it in the incoming bins.

We would also make sure that the area for printers and computer (inside the counter) is very adjustable so as to allow for different models and new machinery.

What do you have for your counter surface and what would you have if you were doing it over?

Our 14 foot counter is covered in a mica in a matte mottled finish (except for two pieces of glass on top for the display case). After 20 years it barely shows any scratches.

What is the depth of your counter and do you like it?

40" deep x 38.25" high. We like the depth as it allows for some larger pieces yet is not too wide to be able to really reach almost to the end. The height is great because a tall person doesn't have to stoop down to work on it and yet it is a good height for someone short like me. One really good thing on our counter is that there is a space on bottom that is recessed so when you stand in front of the counter you have where to put your feet!

What is on top of your counter? (when it is cleaned off of all the corner samples )

Two shelves with computer monitors on top and space for store receipts beneath and 2 keyboards and a tabletop museum glass sample. Since there are two glass inserts on top the items in the display case can be seen from on top when the counter is clear.

Do you keep your mat samples on top of the counter or somewhere else?

NO, we do not keep them on top. The absolute best thing about this counter is that we have drawers for the mat samples. Originally we had two sets of mats, one for each side and fabric in the middle. As our selection of mats grew (especially fabric) we spread out and now only have one set. If I were to design a new counter today I would leave out some of the storage below and do some more mat drawers so we could have two sets again.

Show me a picture of you design counter please.

We are actually putting this counter up for sale soon.

 

[blackiris]

I've been toying with the idea of tiling my frame counter.........

or gluing down those neoprene rubber floor mats that come in wonky colors....... I jsut need to make a decision first.....

OH...... my counter is 4'x8' with finished frame order storage underneath.

 

[Ylva]

I like the look of the to be counter Dave!

I don't have a counter. I have two design tables,on wheels, kinda Parson style with no storage underneath. Tables are 4x8 and have one mat rack each on them plus a mat caddy (3 tiered) in between, also on wheels.

That way; I can set up two customers at the same time (it does happen....) the two mat racks on top are each Artique.

I have the space to do this and I wanted the very open feeling. I didn't need the storage underneath as I have a huge workshop with plenty of storage space for art and them some.

As you know, we might move and my set up would be completely different then. I would not have the space for my design tables and would need storage underneath.

My tables are 36" high; if I could do it over again; I would make them 34" high. The 36" is comfortable for me (I'm tall) but for most of my customers it's too high. (I have a little stepping stool though)

I like the 4' width; but my tables are 'free standing' so I can walk around them easily and so can my customers. It's nice for the oversized art.

oh, and the top is what they use for kitchen counters and I am very happy with it! I chose a neutral off white.

 

[FrameMakers]

I have also looked into travertine tiles. I would just prefer a single solid surface. I found an article about making your own polished poured concrete counter tops. Looks very doable, but the process takes close to 2 weeks and is very messy. Couldn't do it here at work and don't know if I would even want to do it at home in the garage. Other issue with it is that concrete is HEAVY.

 

[RParrish]

I am in the process of designing and building a new design counter. This is what I have come up with so far. It is 12' long and 36" high.

I wonder how it would look with the center panel square or larger than the two side ones.

 

[RParrish]

I have also looked into travertine tiles. I would just prefer a single solid surface. I found an article about making your own polished poured concrete counter tops. Looks very doable, but the process takes close to 2 weeks and is very messy. Couldn't do it here at work and don't know if I would even want to do it at home in the garage. Other issue with it is that concrete is HEAVY.

And would probably scratch when some one flops their metal frame on it.

 

[EMcBride]

Hi Dave!

We have mat caddies, some gift cards with my Dad's photos and a display for his book. We have 40" deep, 36" tall bins for completed artwork storage, which are topped with powder coated steal. We wallpapered the bases with a kinda, chocolate colored paper. Looks sharp. You can go to the shop's website for pictures

 

[Couture's Gallery]

Ours is 42 " x 16 ft 34" high and covered with light grey matte finish formica . Storage full length under the counter .
Mat displays are dead center between the two 8ft pieces giving us two 7 ft design stations. Everything in our store is on wheels for quick reconfiguration.

The formica is wonderful to keep clean and the nuetral color is great to design on. The matte finish eliminates glare from the overhead daylight track lighting when designing.

 

[FrameMakers]

Formica is quite practical, but just leaves me feeling MEH. If I had all the $$$$ I would have granite or corian counter, but it at 40"x12' it is going to be way up there in cost. One place I saw had it listed at $50 per sqft. That would make the counter top $2000.

 

[Rick Bergeron - CPF]

Dave, we have a local contractor who pours solid surface composite to order and would expect a town your size to have someone similar.

Pricing was 25 - 30% of Corian or equivalent.

 

[j Paul]

I absolutly hate, hate, hate that design of your counter Dave















Now it makes me want to redo mine!

 

[j Paul]

How about a copper counter top?

• 40" x 144" = 5,760 square in.
• Shiny Copper Pennys = .75 square in. or 7,680 pennies or $76.80
• 53 pennies deep x 192 pennies long
• Pennies are approx .125" thick
• Build a retaining lip out of your wood approx 1/4" deep / lay in pennies and pour 1/4" of acrylic resin to cover.
• Read directions on the resin as you might need a helper with a heat gun to prevent bubbles.

 

[Terry Scidmore CPF]

WOW!!!!

I LOVE your design counter ideas, Dave! Thanks for sharing and giving us inspiration.

I currently have 3 design counters on wheels (locking - as I am the one who goes rolling across the room), with light grey Sintra for the surface. The tables are 4 x 8 foot work tables, 36 inches high, nothing fancy, with one shelf below for people to put things on.

Because I started out as a DIY shop, the tables were multipurpose - designed and took orders on them, but customers also did their own framing on them. I had 4 so I could move the DIY'rs off from the main one by the entry for their DIY time while I continued with any new customers at the main table. The shelf on the bottom was a handy place for customers to put their purses, dogs, other pictures, children, etc. The table tops were covered in cardboard which had kraft paper over it, so we could change it when it was well used and needed to be refreshed.

Mat racks are on the tables on one end, with extra ones on the shelf below.

Cash register, credit card terminal, etc. are elsewhere away from the action - except for the sneaky little kids who squeeze behind counters and pull plugs out of things!!! I would like to block off that area from people completely.

My dream design table would be L shaped, the longest part of the L would be 4 x 8 feet, the shorter part of the L would be 36 inches wide by 4 feet long. Height would be 30 inches or lower - my 36 inchers are too high for most folks to see the design choices well without getting up on that usefull stool I keep nearby. Neutral color like blaheige grey, washable, and kind of durable. All on wheels. Able to walk around it on all sides except for the one where the phone, etc. would be. Mat racks elsewhere but nearby. A place for phone, credit card terminal, and computer and printer but situated so customers can't touch them. Little cubbies built in beneath for the various paperwork stuff, calender, etc. Also places for glass sampler, examples of framing techniques, all that stuff we pull out to show and explain something in particular, but stowed away so it is not on the coutertop.

LOVE YOUR IDEAS, EVERYONE! THANKS FOR ALL OF THE INSPIRATION!!

 

[greg@larsonjuhl.com]

Dave, I applaud you for this fantastic counter design. It is often said the kitchen is the heart of the home. Likewise, a design counter is the heart of a frame shop. It is where nearly all transactions occur, meaning it is where you make money. If the counter is sending all the right signals to your customers, it should help them make great choices and help you earn great profits. When counters look tired, dated or poorly designed, they do not help to sell well-designed cutom framing.

For the countertop, keep it neutral and easy to clean. Medium gray is not necessary a color that blends well into every frame shop decor, but it is a color that does not fight with most art and frame designs. Because medium gray is the halfway point between white (lack of all color) and black (combination of all colors) it doe not compete with the art and product samples you set against it. Avoid patterns or texture to keep attention focosed on those same elements in the art and frame designs.

My only other suggestion is to make sure you consider proper overhead lighting, too. It is a careful balance of having enough light, but not glaring or bright. You don't want the area to heat up from the light. You need the colors to be as true as possible. With everything happening in the lighting field today, I am no expert, but it is worth consulting one for advice. Combined with this beautiful counter, the right lighting can help you sell great frame designs.

 

[homeaccents]

Great thread Dave.....and I too love your counter design......really sharp!

We actually just remodeled our design counters last year to make them more customer friendly along with the use of visualization.

We now have two 96" x 42" counters parallel to each other 42" apart with a 24" x 48" counter connecting them at the end along the wall for my computer. We used a laminate for the counter top that looks like granite (holding up pretty good so far, but I do have a few small scratches I notice when I'm cleaning the surface.) They are 37" tall and we used a very sleek, maple colored bamboo for the fronts and sides. The inside U is open for storage, and I have black curtains covering the openings. We have the visuallization set up on one of the counters, and this has worked out really well. They look great, and fit into their surroundings very nicely. I put some pics below. :smiley:

We used to have one gigantic 8ft x 8ft table that stood the same height, and had a carpet covered counter top. The sides were wallpapered in a really nice linen fabric. I really loved it....and I do miss that big fella.... It was a fantastic oversized after hours workspace when I needed it, and I never had to worry about that counter top taking a beating....It could take it. We just vacuumed it every day, easy peasy. I also liked the fact that we were always standing along side our customers, instead of behind a counter....it just felt friendlier somehow.

However, I did notice that when customers would come in while I was already waiting on folks they would look at the one counter and always want to just stand to the side, even though there was usually more than enough space for them to spread out on the other side of the counter and I would always invite them to do so telling them I would be with them very shortly and they could look over the samples while they waited.... they would reluctantly do it, but they often times just seemed shy about it..... like they were somehow encroaching on the other peoples space.

Now it seems when folks come in, and they see a free counter they just take it, and there is no worry, and since I am usually situated in between the counters, I am usually able to give help to both sides.

I

 

[MaJa]

Okay ... sorry been slow about getting these up here. The shop is a bit of a mess and we need to rehang the wall, but here are our two counters. LOVE having the second counter for when it gets busy. They measure 41" tall and the top is 4 ft by 8ft. I like the height for working on them (because I am tall), but when some one mention it being easier for customers to see that was something I never thought of. Also, I need to (eventually someday) get my camera higher to be able to get larger work and cut down on distortion. Also I really need to address the lighting.

These came from two different The Great Frame Ups. I love them, but the black Formica tops are scratch some and that bugs me.

 

[Bob Doyle]

Have you seen the one that is for sale in another thread? It has a removable fullsized top and the bottom breaks into three pieces. There are holes in it for running cables, computer and probably for the till. Drawers in I think 2 sections and room for the computer in the third.

I really like the compartmentalization feature, makes it mush easier for moving. The fullsize removable top is nice to as means no seams. I bought mine from a shop that was closing and it sure would have been nice if I could have dismantled it to move it

 

[hangupsgallery]

Our design counter(s) are large and spacious, backed by a 50 foot wall of frame samples. They are 36" deep and 36" tall. Two computer stations for designing and an additional space for our Integrated Framer camera activity. Large flat screen on back wall for "big as life" display.

The counters are covered in grey formica. The color is subtle enough so as to not distract from or compete with the frame, mat and artwork being considered. The surface holds up well and is relatively scratch resistent. (at least, scratches don't show up too bad) We've been using this same material in all our galleries for nearly 30 years.

On the back side of the counters there are built-in storage shelves, drawers for fillets and metal frame samples. Mat samples are in an array of 6 specially designed storage "trays". We try to keep most everything off the counter for that uncluttered look.

 

[Chris Martyn]

Re:

The idea of putting it on wheels is really excellent. This way, you will be able to give it much better appearance. Along with that, you can use some of your skills to give it better design.

Draft it with colors and other objects and it will surely look too good. You are going pretty well, all you need to do is to think creatively and use your approach and skills towards it.

 

[FrameMakers]

This is the the final plan for the design counter that we will be starting construction on the beginning of next month. The color will be an antique black that has an ever so slight brownish cast. The counter top will be poured in place concrete. I have also decided to spring for the brass foot rail as I feel this will really tie the whole thing together. The 2 racks of mat samples that are in the counter will be on pull out shelves similar to what Steve from Hang-Ups showed in his photos.

 

[Bob Doyle]

Sweet!

Don't forget to account for putting the finished frames in and taking them out You're gonna need adequate room for that in the back....

 

[FrameMakers]

So here are some photos showing the progress on the design counter.

This shows the basic box which is made out of 1/2" MDF that was recycled from the former design counter. To this I have added sections of bead board with casing frames & 3/4 MDF so that the bead board looks sunken in.

Here we have added some trim boards and the spindles. I sprayed it with a coat of the wall color as base for the distressing to come.

This is after spraying on a coat of the espresso color and wiping a bit of it off here and there (photo is a bit over-exposed to show detail). Next will be sanding through on some of the edges to expose the wood and then a bit of stain on those spots and finally a coat of dark paste wax over the entire thing to give it a glow.

After the base is finished, I have the concrete counter top to tackle. :icon9:

 

[Rick Granick]

Very nice looking, Dave. I like the finish, and the overall design. Good luck with that concrete job.
Rick

 

[Jeff Rodier]

The base looks great. Did you have a chance to do the test concrete counter top.

 

[kuluchicken]

Lovely design, it looks amazing so far!

 

[Baer Charlton]

That grey carpet is going to look smashing in those beadboard plates.

Man... now I want to go redo ours.

 

[Warren Tucker]

You might want to take a look at ours at our website under the Backroom Gallery under the Frame Works Tab. Ours aren't exactly design tables but they serve the same purpose and put us on the same side of the table as the customer. They also allow an element of verticallity. There is a sheet of sheet metal under the velcro fabric for magnetic holders.

 

[Ylva]

Looking good Dave!!!! Hope you will have step by step pictures of the concrete pouring and such! Am very interested in that.

 

[i-m-chickie]

Looks AWESOME!